Just need the correct carb. body. I can swap throttle and choke shafts. B.T.D.T.
Will a carb. from a Husky 266 work?
Will a carb. from a Husky 266 work?
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Not positive about the 670, but I know they'll work in a 630.
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Weeeell they will work.....however the Huskys use a thumb actuated high idle trigger lock which is located in the trigger handle....the carbs for the Jonsereds (625, 630, 670) use a choke linkage set for the high idle instead. If I remember correctly you can't simply swap choke and throttle shafts because they work backwards from each other. (I will look these over when I get to the shop later today) Anyway you end up with no start position/high idle setting. However if you should put a Jonsered carb on a Husky you end with both then thumb trigger lock and the choke trigger lock.
Like I stated above, I can swap choke and throttle shafts. What really counts is the carb. body having the H & L jet screws in the correct position and provision for idle adjustment. The taper head screw thingy for the idle speed.
The impulse line hooks to the pump side cover on the 670. The 266 IDK.
I've swapped Tilly HS from a Remington to a Lombard. But those are really, really old turds.
The impulse line hooks to the pump side cover on the 670. The 266 IDK.
I've swapped Tilly HS from a Remington to a Lombard. But those are really, really old turds.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carbure...299?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cddfa8bdb
I looks like it would work. Plug the impulse hole in the face with a lead shot. Then swap on the pump cover from the 670 and the throttle shafts etc.
Edit: Not going to work as the 266 carb. body is not tapped for the idle speed screw. Rats!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Husqvar...684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db3920a4
I looks like it would work. Plug the impulse hole in the face with a lead shot. Then swap on the pump cover from the 670 and the throttle shafts etc.
Edit: Not going to work as the 266 carb. body is not tapped for the idle speed screw. Rats!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Husqvar...684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20db3920a4
WoodDean
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Ok Kev and Robin . . . . this must feel like the longest rebuild to you guys, but I only have time to work on it during the weekends.
I probably went overboard on parts but, now I have a new Piston, cylinder AND rings.
WoodDean
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Also added a new recoil spring and handle. However, now I broke another piece. Well, it was already cracked, I just helped it break a little further.
WoodDean
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AND, I'm fairly excited about this; I bought a Jonsereds 910D 910E Overhaul gasket kit for $16
Looks like there's a muffler gasket in there which I need. I'm assuming some of these could be used on my 90, but for $16, thought I'd take a chance and ask the authorities . . . . . Kev or Cantdog?
Looks like there's a muffler gasket in there which I need. I'm assuming some of these could be used on my 90, but for $16, thought I'd take a chance and ask the authorities . . . . . Kev or Cantdog?
Correct.... i should have mentioned that caveat.
Dean, you'll have to ask Robin because I'm still learning crossover J'red stuff. The 90 and the 910e have the same bore & stroke. I think the 910 was meant to modernize the 90 and replace it. I would assume most of the gasket set would work for the 90....but better to have Robin weigh in on this.
I worked some today between rain showers on the no-spark ebay 90. Had a nice blue spark in about 45 minutes. PO had really ham-fitted this saw's electrics. Good thing I'm poor with ignition parts.......gonna have to time it tomorrow, because he messed with the main point's/coil plate, as well.
Kevin
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Sorry...don't mean to be a drag but as I said....no... you can't just swap shafts and plates between carbs for the Husky and Jonsered in this series.......the choke plate works in the opposite direction and there is a pair of little "shelves" (for lack of a better term) in the bore that the choke plate sits on when fully open.....this flat spot is centered on the shaft hole on both....however structure that supports the flat spot is to one side or the other depending on which way the choke plate moves. The net result when you put a Jonsered choke plate and shaft in a Husky carb is... the choke will close but not open all the way as the plate hits the backside of the shelf on both sides of the bore. I have a pic showing what I am trying to describe....sorry it's such a sucky pic....didn't realize it was so blurry until I got it on the 'puter......but I think you'll be able to see what I'm trying to say...the carb on the left is a 237A from a 625 Jonsered and the carb on the right is a 260A from a 272XP. See how the "tang" is oriented differently to the hole? You will have to stay with the carb designed for a Jonsered if you want everything to work properly. You can swap the whole carb to a husky carb but then you lose your start/high idle for the reasons I stated before and as you've already noticed , there are two idle adjustment setups...the early which uses a screw in the case and the late which has a tapered screw mounted on the carb so you need to keep that in mind too when carb shopping as well....
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First Dean...you were right on the carb gasket....guess I was having a Coast Rican brain cramp...totally the same either way you turn it....
The stuff you can use from the 910 kit is.....the muffler gasket and the crank seals. The case gasket and cyl gasket are 910 specific and won't work on the 80/90......Though you MIGHT be able to modify the cyl gasket to work....think the barrel is a different OD dia...and you would have to cut out for the impulse hole.
That said you got the set for the price of what a couple seals would cost.....and I gotta say you've done such a thorough and nice job on that 90 you really should put in the new seals...cheap insurance for the NOS P&C...IMHO.....and if the old seals are leaky that MAY have something to do with your fuel delivery issues too....
Should you want to part with those 910 cyl and case gasket gaskets....I could definitely use them....or even just the case gasket...
WoodDean
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Thanks Robin, you had mentioned the seals in your other troubleshooting post and it totally makes sense. I'm just afraid I can't find a gasket if I split the case. Now I need an intake manifold gasket which is hard to find.
When the 910 arrives, I'll take the seals and the muffler gasket, the rest is yours. Cheers my friend!!!
WoodDean
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ok Kevin . . . .friendly wager . . . . . . first one to get their 90 properly running so it can cut wood, owes the other a beer.
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You don't need to split the case to change the seals...just gotta pull the clutch spyder and on the flywheel side, the flywheel and ign plate....seals are easy to get to and replace..
Thanks I have a use!!
WoodDean
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Ahhhhhhhh . . . . . . if I don't have to do that, the job just got a bit easier!!!
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You will find lots a crud behind the seals.....with the jug off I usually use an acid brush and mixed fuel to wash and clean the bearings and inside the crankcase before I put the seals back in.....rinse a few times by filling the crankcase and letting it run out the bearings ....until the fuel looks clean...
Yeah, seals are a breeze on the 90...DON'T split the case. Just pry them out carefully and drive them back in place with something soft like plastic pipe of the appropriate size. Be sure you note that Robin said "mixed" gas(as in oil like you'd run through the gas tank), when you wash the main bearings and inside the crankcase. Mark the points plate assembly exactly as it sits and you won't have to re-time the saw when you re-install the plate.
Well Dean....you've got a big head start on me on the 90, but sure...first one cutting wood buys the other a beer, although I need to buy all new AV mounts, fabricate a starter housing screen and rebuild the carb still.
Kevin
Well Dean....you've got a big head start on me on the 90, but sure...first one cutting wood buys the other a beer, although I need to buy all new AV mounts, fabricate a starter housing screen and rebuild the carb still.
Kevin
WoodDean
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Wow...that would be easier! There are two style screens apparently;one is round and bulbous like you pictured and one housing has a flatter screen/assembly. I always assumed the 90 used the bulbous screen and the 80 used the flatter screen. But I think I'm wrong on that measure, because this 90 has a flat screen and I think it's OE.
But hell yeah, I'll buy your screen/housing because I like the bulbous screen to be on the 90's.
Kevin
