Jonsered Chainsaws

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Hello Kevin, those are some great pictures of the fuel lines in various configurations with the hose clamps and all that. I also am interested in the anti vibration components, I will give you a call and we'll chat about what we can figure out with that, thanks!!
@Myron....here are what I believe to be some OE fuel set-ups. Like Robin said, they were black line except where the actual vent line runs from the box to the clutch side. I have only seen one formed in black line, the rest were formed in what became yellow with age, but suspect it was more clear when new. Like I said, perhaps this was an often replaced line and the J'red replacement formed line wasn't black. Notice the assortment of clamps;pinch clamps and crimped clamps. I have that tool that crimps those... left over from auto/truck CV boot repairs.

I also found a couple extra AV mounts I could give ya...the ones that go into the cups and are unobtainium new. They are de-laminated where the rubber meets the metal. I suspect if we could figure out what adhesive they use in AV mounts to bond rubber to metal, they would be fine, because the rubber is whole otherwise. I'm sure it's some kinda of industrial adhesive and fuel/oil resistant. I was fixing a washing machine once and a tech gave me a almost used up tube of cement to bond a rubber drain grommet to the steel tub. It was some industrial stuff that would work, I'm sure....nothing more hostile than underwater, chlorine, detergent, oils & dirt.

Kevin
 

Is that actually just a rebadged Husky? I was told there are no authentic J'reds anymore....

Kevin
Hello Kevin, those are some great pictures of the fuel lines in various configurations with the hose clamps and all that. I also am interested in the anti vibration components, I will give you a call and we'll chat about what we can figure out with that, thanks!!

Cool.....I have lots of AV mounts that are just torn at the rubber/metal joint....seems to me if we found the right bonding compound, these could continue to live on awhile longer.

Kevin
 
Super glue, scuff the rubber and spray with carbon cleaner. Let dry then glue em back. I have multiple saws using glued mounts

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk
 
Super glue, scuff the rubber and spray with carbon cleaner. Let dry then glue em back. I have multiple saws using glued mounts

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk

Hmmmm...that kinda glue has a 'half-life'. Exposed to the elements and oil/gas I would expect failure at some point. We tried those glues with auto & truck applications and yes, they work for awhile and then fail. This needs to be a commercial bonding agent just like they used at the place that makes AV mounts with metal. Thanks for the suggestion though....

Kevin
 
Interesting...I always thought they were just called bronze screens, as I didn't know they fell under any sintering category. So it's all about air getting back in and possibly contaminating the check valve? It's crude all right...like the wiggle pin. It's one of the cons of the 80/90 that if you leave one out in the sun on a hot day, you'll pay hell getting it restarted. Not much of a system to start with...leave it in the shade though and you're fine no matter how hot it is.

I actually found both types of screens then, in my parts bag....I thought the regular bronze screen was from another saw and in the parts bag by mistake. I like the bronze screen concept and used them for yrs in auto fuel applications. Never had to do anything with the bronze J'red fuel filter screen other than blow it off with compressed air or replace the felt cover. Now everyone just replaces the screen with those generic white ones sold everywhere.

Kevin

Sintering is the just process they are made by......taking individual particles/granules putting them in a form and introducing pressure and a very regulated amount of heat....enough to bond the particles together but not enough to melt them leaving room/airspace around them. The finer the particle and the more pressure and heat you can end up with a rather smooth item like in the "Oilite" bearings.....larger particles less pressure and heat you a product like we are speaking of being use for various fuel/air filters. These filters, though they may look machined, are not...they are press made in a form.

Yeah Jonsereds bronze fuel don't require replacing much, just flush with gas and blow out with air put on a new felt and you're good to go. That is why I like them...it's too bad you can't still get the felts.....
 
I think I figured out the 70/70E thing. I have some brochures that call and label the saw a 70, but it has the electronic ignition. So, I think there was some confussion when people have seen that there was a 70 and a 70E and assumed there was a points model, when I don't think there ever was. I thought the same thing, thinking along the 52/52E line.

Hey Eric.....I agree...I believe there was only the electronic ign on the 910 and the 70 (two different ones on the 70)......however the 52 was the points version of the 52E so it's easy to see where some confusion might exist.
 
I'm taking apart a 520sp that supposedly ran until the recoil gave out. Chances of finding a good recoil are good, bad or hen's teeth? Also the squish on this saw is huge----the saw appears to have a removable cyl but the bolts seem so long that the also will allow the bottom end to come apart which I don't really want to have happen. I don't really even need the saw----do they have any value as a parts saw?
 
In reference to the 520sp mentioned earlier----put a rope on the recoil and the saw starts and runs just fine!!! Now what about the brake? The brake handle is there but no band. What might I expect to find under the little plastic cover if I drive out the two roll pins? Are new parts available or will this just be another one of those saws w/o a functioning brake?

I'm a bit surprised that this saw isn't heavier considering it's age.
 
I have a chance to pick up a Jonny 2040, it looks very much like a Poulan 2050, or Wildthing. Am I wrong? If so I recon not worth much. Thanks for any feedback

Lee
So I did pick up this Jonny. It came as a trade for a free saw that i sold. Just seems to need a recoil spool which I've ordered. Piston looks good. Chain was on backwards as well as being rocked! It seems to share some poulan parts but has a lot of extras. It also came with a 325 chain, not sure if that is the right one; as it was on backwards. it has a star type sprocket similar to a LoPro 3/8th chain. I'll have to do more research on that. All the chain has on it is EM LV anyone know who's chain this is?
 
Model 670: What is the story on the bar mount pattern. Acres and Baileys list the Oregon D009 pattern with a 9.5mm slot. This example I have here sprots a 20" Oregon D096 bar.

Ist that going to work properly? Seems to oil the chain OK, but, just making shure.
 
So I did pick up this Jonny. It came as a trade for a free saw that i sold. Just seems to need a recoil spool which I've ordered. Piston looks good. Chain was on backwards as well as being rocked! It seems to share some poulan parts but has a lot of extras. It also came with a 325 chain, not sure if that is the right one; as it was on backwards. it has a star type sprocket similar to a LoPro 3/8th chain. I'll have to do more research on that. All the chain has on it is EM LV anyone know who's chain this is?

I can't believe how small/narrow the fuel line is on this little guy. 325 is correct and the 16 inch bar will be just fine. The sprocket looks fine but has no markings on it have to assume because it had a .325 chain that it is the same. I have a 325 chain that I can have shortened to fit my local Stihl dealer charges $5 to do it. Just waiting for the recoil spool now. I have the carb sitting in fuel mix for now.

Lee
 
Model 670: What is the story on the bar mount pattern. Acres and Baileys list the Oregon D009 pattern with a 9.5mm slot. This example I have here sprots a 20" Oregon D096 bar.

Ist that going to work properly? Seems to oil the chain OK, but, just making shure.

The 630 was the first Jonsered to use the Husqvarna pattern. The ones that came from Tilton (maybe others too) were supplied with an"S" clip to fatten up the studs so the same bar as the 70E, 621, etc. could be used. I see it a lot on 630's and once and a while on a 670. The oil hole lines up and you can file out a D009 to fit the older saws too. I have a whole bag full of those clips I bought from an old dealer somewhere.
 
In reference to the 520sp mentioned earlier----put a rope on the recoil and the saw starts and runs just fine!!! Now what about the brake? The brake handle is there but no band. What might I expect to find under the little plastic cover if I drive out the two roll pins? Are new parts available or will this just be another one of those saws w/o a functioning brake?

I'm a bit surprised that this saw isn't heavier considering it's age.
I am pretty sure I have a complete 520 in the basement. Was my dad's saw, Has scoring on piston, and I was unable to get a new piston when I looked a few years ago. If you want parts or the whole thing just reply.
 
I am pretty sure I have a complete 520 in the basement. Was my dad's saw, Has scoring on piston, and I was unable to get a new piston when I looked a few years ago. If you want parts or the whole thing just reply.
Where are you located and what are you looking to get? It's tough for a new member to gain trust around here. As it stands I've only got $15 dollars in a really good running saw right now. Really kind of impressed with the saw not too heavy considering the age and it really starts and runs great.
 
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