By the way, what's the bar mount pattern. Acres show Oregon D009.
Can't be right as the studs are more like 5/16" or 8mm not 9.5 mm.
Can't be right as the studs are more like 5/16" or 8mm not 9.5 mm.
Jonsered Chainsaws
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WoodDean
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Good evening All,
Kev, you may be interested to know . . . . . . . our beer bet is still in progress, I think. I had a major setback with my 90, so guess what I did!!!????!!!!! I bought another 90 case!!!
Spent all day yesterday transferring parts plus the new crank seals, jug, piston and rings. Now I have no spark, so I'm chasing that problem. This saws pulls so much better/easier that the other crankcase. Maybe it had a bearing issue?
Kev, you may be interested to know . . . . . . . our beer bet is still in progress, I think. I had a major setback with my 90, so guess what I did!!!????!!!!! I bought another 90 case!!!
Spent all day yesterday transferring parts plus the new crank seals, jug, piston and rings. Now I have no spark, so I'm chasing that problem. This saws pulls so much better/easier that the other crankcase. Maybe it had a bearing issue?
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Another view. Ya know, now that I think about it . . . . . the old case had a lot of stripped threads. Every hole that held the top cover on was stripped. The holes that held the felling spike and a couple of the recoil holes were also stripped. I suppose I could always tap them a size bigger but what a pain. Spent $40 for another case, was well worth it to me.
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Looking good Dean........lot of work but sometimes that's what it takes!!!
WoodDean
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Thanks Robin, I feel like I have a much better build now. And, I don't believe I've had a spark since I put in a new condenser. So I may go back to the dented one and see if that changes anything.
btw - Congrats on the 111. I was looking at the pics and that's a great find. Also enjoyed the milling rig. Looks like it'd be fun for a log or two but could quickly turn into some hard work.
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No known source for thin rings.......unless you happen on an old Jonsereds dealer that still has some tucked away.....but not likely.
Thin rings were problematic and were in use only a couple yrs......they were considered high performance with reduced friction and good heat transfer.......but the biggest problem was they didn't have the tension of regular rings and carbon would accumulate quickly in the lands and stick one ring or the other......usually the top one....you may well find that is the case with your saw since you say the P&C look great and you may be able to free up both rings and get your comp back.....thing is.....they probably were ahead of their time....probably if they had been able to use a very high detergent synth oil like Stihl ultra might not have been a problem at all .........take that and the fact that most folks still cling to the old "more oil is better" theory when mixing fuel. I grew up on an offshore island and ran outboards since I was 7-8 yrs old. We always mixed strong on the oil.........I know better now.....changed my whole outlook since I started fixing and modding saws......carbon from over oil/cheep oil kills more small engines than abuse/neglect does.
If you can get them out and cleaned up without breaking them.....check the end gap and if it's in the .005"-.008'" range I bet she would work just fine........if you don't want to fuss with it then just buy a nice Meteor single ring piston .....regular 1.5MM single ring is what they went to anyway. Don't buy white box Golf or Chinee.....go with Meteor or Episan....I prefer Meteor......Northwoods is usually cheapest and quickest..
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HaHaHa thanks Dean...that 111S was an awesome find...haven't had time to run it but once....perhaps I have more time in the fall....
The mill and helper handle are just a bonus......I have owned a large diesel powered stationary, rotary saw mill for the last 27 years and pretty much consider a chainsaw mill a not so funny joke............However..........that said........what I will probably use that rig for is slabbing burls.........it is real scary trying to hold onto those things with only the sawyer favorite and then move it into a 52" dia saw truning 650 rpm......EEEK!!!!
On your spark...make certain you have the wire end that goes to your points only is contacting the spring and not grounding out on anything else....
WoodDean
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A large diesel powered stationary rotary mill . . . . . it's not a Frick double aught is it? There's still a ton of them in service here on the east coast.
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No..........it's mostly a mongrel.....built from 2-3 mills...mostly Lane parts..older than time.....friction drive wth flat belt reverse...babbit bearings....18' carrage... 78' of track...will saw 34' long......and if all that isn't enough...it's a left hand mill to boot....LOL!!!
If you have 5/16" studs get a D176 mount or use spring spacers for a D009
Hey Dean!
Good to hear you're back. I'm betting your spark problem is coming from the point plate and or your coil. Like Robin said, look for a wire short on that long wire that goes from your point plate to the coil under the top cover. Any place that's shorted to metal and you'll have zero spark. That was the cause of the 'no spark' scenario in the last ebay 90 I bought. Oh well, if you like this case better, go for it! I'm slammed with work and rebuilding my Husky 2100 top-end is what comes next. You may win the bet yet....
Kevin
Hah! Studs have shoulders. Darn geezer can't see thru his bifocals. D009 it is.
Hmmmm.................We have some Remy roller nose bars with 3/8" slots and a drill press.
Got it running and after I make a few test cuts we'll check comp. again. See if we blow out any carbon.
WoodDean
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That wire you and Robin are talking about, I just replaced it while I was rebuilding the saw. Soldered new connectors on the ends and tested it. So I'll keep checking connections after the part swap, probably something simple. Thanks for your help guys.
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Good.....what I was talking about is that it hasn't gone to ground by the time you test at that contact......when tested that contact should never go to ground until the grounded contact touches it........
WoodDean
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ok, now I'm a bit confused. Define which contact you're referring to. The one on the point plate?
Check your coil under the top cover...they do go bad.
Kevin
Kevin
A 670 with ex. piston/cylinder/ring, what cranking pressure can I expect?
That is, I have 130 now but just to get it to 140(ish) ain't gonna be worth the trouble. 160, now, that be different.
Yup, picked up a new 20" Husky branded bar and cut some cookies. 25 USD out the door.
That is, I have 130 now but just to get it to 140(ish) ain't gonna be worth the trouble. 160, now, that be different.
Yup, picked up a new 20" Husky branded bar and cut some cookies. 25 USD out the door.
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No not the stationary one....that is grounded......the contact on the bakerlite arm that rides the cam...should not be grounded until it closes and makes contact with the stationary one.....
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A 670 with ex. piston/cylinder/ring, what cranking pressure can I expect?
That is, I have 130 now but just to get it to 140(ish) ain't gonna be worth the trouble. 160, now, that be different.
Yup, picked up a new 20" Husky branded bar and cut some cookies. 25 USD out the door.
Set your squish to 0.020"...new meteor...should be around 180-185 psi easy......130 I still bet you have a stuck or partially stuck ring......
Thanks bud.
