Jonsered Chainsaws

[fossil]

Looking at the IPL and other lines like that, I'm pretty sure the that flange on the line is top side. Besides, it would be too short the other way. The old 026 Stihls are like that. You have to pull the line out by stretching it to attach the filter. The one on the 630 is shorter though. Maybe that's why Husky changed the design.

 

[Hoggwood]

Well it is a good thing my new lines are still sitting in some supply house down south. I would likely be the guy to FUBAR one. Did I ever tell you about my collection of torn 026 fuel lines...

 

[Real1shepherd]

They actually make a gas line puller, I have one. It's a cable wire with a finger ring on one end and a hook like thing on the other. I bought some fuel line once from an outdoor equipment place online and that came with it.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I used a method I made up (sort of like a crow or a chimp). Got it in in about 5 minutes. I saw that tool you are talking about in a Jonsered repair manual.

 

[fossil]

I used a method I made up (sort of like a crow or a chimp). Got it in in about 5 minutes. I saw that tool you are talking about in a Jonsered repair manual.

And I was wrong. I put the 630 fuel line in backwards

I had the line in backwards. It still looks short to me in the tank. I feels pretty snappy. I hope to get it out for a try tomorrow because it looks like we have a stretch of rain coming in.

I can't remember running a saw so quiet. I've been fooling around with older stuff and some Macs.

 

[Cantdog]

And I was wrong. I put the 630 fuel line in backwards

I had the line in backwards. It still looks short to me in the tank. I feels pretty snappy. I hope to get it out for a try tomorrow because it looks like we have a stretch of rain coming in.

I can't remember running a saw so quiet. I've been fooling around with older stuff and some Macs.

The later 6XX saws got rid of that $10..00 Stihlish fuel line....went back to just a hole slightly smaller than fuel line like the 49sp, 52/52E, 621, 70E etc. etc. etc.

 

[fossil]

I guess there's no excess profit in stuff that anyone can replace with a piece of Tygon.

 

[Real1shepherd]

The 80/90 and I assume the 801, have a square valve that doubles as a vent. You run new line to it from the tank and on the airbox side you run a new vent one direction, and a new fuel line from another port to the carb. Easiest arrangement I ever saw. The Husky 2100 has a blub grommet built into the fuel line and you have to pull it through pretty hard till it locks. Then since the tank detaches from the saw, you have to route the rest of the line very carefully up into the air box through a separate grommet. You have to check a few time to make sure it's not kinked in the space between the tank and the airbox. Best way to tell if you have it right is by the length of the line coming into the air box....lol.

Viton soft tubing is amazing stuff...amazing price too...lol Probably what the Husky black fuel line is. Never gets stiff, but eventually holes will appear.

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

I've been studying the IPL and I think I can use the top plastic from a Husky 372 on the 2171 by swapping to the Husky recoil cover.
Am I wrong?
View attachment 431463

Can't find the J-Red plastic.[emoji20]

Yes you can do that. You can use the lower filter cover of the 365 if you choose, or change the elbow and use the HD filter and cover.

 

[67L36Driver]

Yes you can do that. You can use the lower filter cover of the 365 if you choose, or change the elbow and use the HD filter and cover.

Thanks bud.
I have a Husky top plastic set coming and will source a 372 recoil cover when that get here. It's on the 'slow boat'.

 

[fossil]

The 80/90 and I assume the 801, have a square valve that doubles as a vent. You run new line to it from the tank and on the airbox side you run a new vent one direction, and a new fuel line from another port to the carb. Easiest arrangement I ever saw. The Husky 2100 has a blub grommet built into the fuel line and you have to pull it through pretty hard till it locks. Then since the tank detaches from the saw, you have to route the rest of the line very carefully up into the air box through a separate grommet. You have to check a few time to make sure it's not kinked in the space between the tank and the airbox. Best way to tell if you have it right is by the length of the line coming into the air box....lol.

Viton soft tubing is amazing stuff...amazing price too...lol Probably what the Husky black fuel line is. Never gets stiff, but eventually holes will appear.

Kevin

Yep. The 801 has the same vent / fuel block.

 

[fossil]

I received the Episan piston for the 630. It came pretty fast. Odered on the 18th and arrived at the door on the 24th. That's very good service. The saw cleaned up nicely and checked out well.

Here's vid of it cutting some white ash with a bit of end grain in the log.
16" bar, Oregon 73 LPX chain.
This is a great cutting saw!

 

[Hoggwood]

Fine piece of machinery Tim. It will be hard not to want to cut a lot of firewood with that one. Mine should be coming together soon.

Did you start your hunt for the even more formidable 670...oh...about 5 min. after you made that cut? I've always been on the lookout for an clean/affordable one out here. Fellows don't want to give them up. At least the smart ones.

 

[fossil]

I don't think I've seen a 670 up for sale. I saw a 920 but procrastinated as parts aren't easy to come by and are generally expensive.
I do see a few 70E's come up for sale but am quite happy with my 801.
Most of the other Husky Jonsereds are priced pretty high and are generally in the 50 cc range.
For a 1984, that 630 has very good anti vibe and is a strong runner. Those Husky oilers with the adjust behind the clutch drum are a bit of a pain, but otherwise it's a great saw.

 

[67L36Driver]

Still looking for top cover and AF cover for 2171.
Got a Husky 372 set on the way from China (super cheap!) but rather keep it all red.

670 on Kansas City C'list. (Shameless plug).

 

[Cantdog]

I don't think I've seen a 670 up for sale. I saw a 920 but procrastinated as parts aren't easy to come by and are generally expensive.
I do see a few 70E's come up for sale but am quite happy with my 801.
Most of the other Husky Jonsereds are priced pretty high and are generally in the 50 cc range.
For a 1984, that 630 has very good anti vibe and is a strong runner. Those Husky oilers with the adjust behind the clutch drum are a bit of a pain, but otherwise it's a great saw.

Yeah those oil adjusters are kind of a pain compared to the Jonsereds adjusters.....but I generally only adjust once for the life of the saw so no biggie.....all the saws I have in that family run 18 or 20" bars except my 630 West Coast that has a 24".....but that gets only run at GTGs and such...more of a shelf queen..

70E is a very nice saw if in good shape but the 801 is probably more dependable and long lived.......a bit more power and a bit heavier.....but has two piston rings and a very dependable points ign compared to the 70E with a single ring and NLA SEM module...the 70E and 49SP were designed and built at the same time so they share similar design trends....that being the early stages of the attempt of producing lighter, faster and cheaper to build saws......neither were built as robust as the earlier designed 52/52E, 621, 80, 801 and 90......in speaking of such things....a Jonsereds you don't hear to much about is the 66E .....mainly because they were identical to the 70E.....except for the bore size.......however they had an earlier designed P&C similar to the 621....that being a two ring high crown piston and more cooling fins than the 70E. These were not terribly popular as the were the same size and weight as the 70E with less performance....and equally as hard to find igns for these days.....

 

[fossil]

I'm a big fan of points saws for the reason you stated. Unfortunately the points set up on my 801 is gone and a chip was installed. It runs well as is so I decided not to pursue getting the points system back together, especially given the price of the required parts. I have two saws that have aftermarket chips in them. They seem to push the limits of timing advance and like to kick back if you don't give them a good stiff pull.

I'm going to put a 20" bar on the 630 and give it a run.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I'm a big fan of points saws for the reason you stated. Unfortunately the points set up on my 801 is gone and a chip was installed. It runs well as is so I decided not to pursue getting the points system back together, especially given the price of the required parts. I have two saws that have aftermarket chips in them. They seem to push the limits of timing advance and like to kick back if you don't give them a good stiff pull.

I'm going to put a 20" bar on the 630 and give it a run.

Gee buddy, all ya gotta do is ask and could send you the entire points set-up for your 810. I'm poor with those damn things, especially since there is hardly any failure.

Kevin

Yeah those oil adjusters are kind of a pain compared to the Jonsereds adjusters.....but I generally only adjust once for the life of the saw so no biggie.....all the saws I have in that family run 18 or 20" bars except my 630 West Coast that has a 24".....but that gets only run at GTGs and such...more of a shelf queen..

70E is a very nice saw if in good shape but the 801 is probably more dependable and long lived.......a bit more power and a bit heavier.....but has two piston rings and a very dependable points ign compared to the 70E with a single ring and NLA SEM module...the 70E and 49SP were designed and built at the same time so they share similar design trends....that being the early stages of the attempt of producing lighter, faster and cheaper to build saws......neither were built as robust as the earlier designed 52/52E, 621, 80, 801 and 90......in speaking of such things....a Jonsereds you don't hear to much about is the 66E .....mainly because they were identical to the 70E.....except for the bore size.......however they had an earlier designed P&C similar to the 621....that being a two ring high crown piston and more cooling fins than the 70E. These were not terribly popular as the were the same size and weight as the 70E with less performance....and equally as hard to find igns for these days.....

Yeah the hunt for SIMs modules and the two piece ignitions like on the 910 are starting to get ridiculous in price. Just give me the simple mag with a points ignition anyday...lol.

As far as low-end grunt(torque) and saws that lasts forever, it's really hard to beat dome top pistons with two rings. The CAD programs may say otherwise, but time has proven what the longest lived designs are.

Lol.....yeah, the Husky 2100 has two oil adjustments, High and Low(can't fathom running that saw oiler on Low??). Being able to actually fine adjust the oiler like on the 80/90 has always endeared itself to me. Very possible I'm going to retire in a yr or so...at least cut way the f%&# back while I still have a body left. I'm really looking FWD to working on the saws. I have a metal log holder design written down on paper that I dreamed up and a log mill just down the road. My neighborhood needs an enema anyway.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

Gee buddy, all ya gotta do is ask and could send you the entire points set-up for your 810. I'm poor with those damn things, especially since there is hardly any failure.

Kevin


Yeah the hunt for SIMs modules and the two piece ignitions like on the 910 are starting to get ridiculous in price. Just give me the simple mag with a points ignition anyday...lol.

As far as low-end grunt(torque) and saws that lasts forever, it's really hard to beat dome top pistons with two rings. The CAD programs may say otherwise, but time has proven what the longest lived designs are.

Lol.....yeah, the Husky 2100 has two oil adjustments, High and Low(can't fathom running that saw oiler on Low??). Being able to actually fine adjust the oiler like on the 80/90 has always endeared itself to me. Very possible I'm going to retire in a yr or so...at least cut way the f%&# back while I still have a body left. I'm really looking FWD to working on the saws. I have a metal log holder design written down on paper that I dreamed up and a log mill just down the road. My neighborhood needs an enema anyway.

Kevin

If you want to give the neighbourhood an enema, respectfully, a Jonsereds isn't up to the task. May I suggest a 10 series 82cc Mac. They will remember that after their ears stop bleeding.

As for the points; thank you. I may take you up on that but I will have to pull the flywheel and see exactly what's missing. I know the condenser is there.

I am getting some saws ready for an upcoming GTG near Chicago and I would like them to be in good running shape before I go.

I wish I had the need and opportunity to run more of them more often. The 801 is a very stout saw.

 

[Real1shepherd]

If you want to give the neighbourhood an enema, respectfully, a Jonsereds isn't up to the task. May I suggest a 10 series 82cc Mac. They will remember that after their ears stop bleeding.

As for the points; thank you. I may take you up on that but I will have to pull the flywheel and see exactly what's missing. I know the condenser is there.

I am getting some saws ready for an upcoming GTG near Chicago and I would like them to be in good running shape before I go.

I wish I had the need and opportunity to run more of them more often. The 801 is a very stout saw.

When I start up the 2100 in the back yard and fool with it, they pay attention...lol. That saw even idles like a bad-ass. The 90 has always sounded subdued, I'll give ya that for the workhorse it is. That 80 OTOH, is also a bad-ass....I doubt if there's much inside that muffler anymore...lol.

I've got whole point assembly plates without the condensor, but everything else intact.

Oh and this is a MAC-free zone....lol. How far a drive is Chicago from you?

Kevin