Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

I assume the basic spec really was 3.2 kw, and if that translates into 4.3 or 4.4 depends on if the hp is hp(i) or hp(m). Hp(m) is what commonly is used on chainsaws though, except on some recent Husky and Stihl models, that oddly is rated in hp(i) on the US market. Theyn are rated in hp(m) in Europe.

Both are bhp, so that designation doesn't mean anything, regarding the difference between hp(m) and hp(i).

Exact calculations on one decimal kW numbers are "risky" anyway, but 1,00 kW basically is 1.34 hp(i), and 1.36 hp(m).

Equipment companies around the world are almost always overly optimistic about their power/hp rating. The Japanese are notorious liars about this sorta thing.

Kevin

 

[SawTroll]

Equipment companies around the world are almost always overly optimistic about their power/hp rating. The Japanese are notorious liars about this sorta thing.

Kevin

I agree that the Japanese are notorious liars (Shindaiwa was the worst, before it was merged with Echo) - but Husky, Stihl and Dolmar max power specs usually have been confirmed by independent testing by DLG/KWF, with occational slight +/-. At this point I no longer trust them though, as they developed too close relations to Dolmar about a decade ago, and there are obvious mistakes/misprints in several test reports. It isn't what it once was.

 

[67L36Driver]

I've been studying the IPL and I think I can use the top plastic from a Husky 372 on the 2171 by swapping to the Husky recoil cover.
Am I wrong?


Can't find the J-Red plastic.[emoji20]

 

[fossil]

Well I got two of the saws running well I wanted to finish so I thought I would break my order I decided to fix up others (like I always seem to) and have a good look at the 630 I bought. I pulled it apart and saw some scoring on the piston which is not what I thought I saw so I pulled the cylinder. The cylinder cleaned up fine but the piston is a little rough so I ordered an Episan piston for it with the fuel line. I will pick up some National 15X26X6 crank seals and the "O" rings from a Husky dealer just for insurance. The crank seals and "O" rings are an exact match to my 266XP
It kind of made me mad at myself but it's the first one I bought that was scored that I thought was good. Live and learn.
630's are rare around here and when they do come up they're $175+ so I'm still happy with the purchase and the rest of the saw is in nice shape.
I will still need to get a brake flag but a member here says he may be able to free one up. No rush on that.

So far the saw seems to be very nice to work on. Lots of clearance to work and no three handed jobs on the horizon.
The piston and fuel line are on the way but have yet to make the transfer from USPS to Canada Post.

I'll need to make a spike up. I bought a piece of 1010-1008 steel 4" X 96" X ,125

The stuff must be way off spec as feels as hard as 1040. It's a ***** to cut, file and grind.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well I got two of the saws running well I wanted to finish so I thought I would break my order I decided to fix up others (like I always seem to) and have a good look at the 630 I bought. I pulled it apart and saw some scoring on the piston which is not what I thought I saw so I pulled the cylinder. The cylinder cleaned up fine but the piston is a little rough so I ordered an Episan piston for it with the fuel line. I will pick up some National 15X26X6 crank seals and the "O" rings from a Husky dealer just for insurance. The crank seals and "O" rings are an exact match to my 266XP
It kind of made me mad at myself but it's the first one I bought that was scored that I thought was good. Live and learn.
630's are rare around here and when they do come up they're $175+ so I'm still happy with the purchase and the rest of the saw is in nice shape.
I will still need to get a brake flag but a member here says he may be able to free one up. No rush on that.

So far the saw seems to be very nice to work on. Lots of clearance to work and no three handed jobs on the horizon.
The piston and fuel line are on the way but have yet to make the transfer from USPS to Canada Post.

I'll need to make a spike up. I bought a piece of 1010-1008 steel 4" X 96" X ,125

The stuff must be way off spec as feels as hard as 1040. It's a ***** to cut, file and grind.

Oh well Tim, it happens to all of us. At least you haven't bought a saw yet that had been underwater, like I did....lol

I can't remember what steel I used for fallin' dawgs....something I brought home from the mill. Most of these saws now have sellers on the bay offering decent dawgs for $20 or so...still more fun to make them.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I think most of the factory spikes are just mild steel, 0.125" thick. It stamps easily, is strong enough and is cheap.
I've made quite a few but need to make more. Very few of the saws I buy have spikes on them. Canadians must be accident prone.
It sure would be quicker if I had access to a band saw.
The 630 and the 266XP I have both came with that goofy bumper bar instead of a spike. Good for saving the paint and bucking small wood I guess.

 

[fossil]

I agree that the Japanese are notorious liars (Shindaiwa was the worst, before it was merged with Echo) - but Husky, Stihl and Dolmar max power specs usually have been confirmed by independent testing by DLG/KWF, with occational slight +/-. At this point I no longer trust them though, as they developed too close relations to Dolmar about a decade ago, and there are obvious mistakes/misprints in several test reports. It isn't what it once was.

I would sure agree with that. I dealt with Nissan and Toyota in the auto industry and when their lips are moving, they're lying.

 

[Cantdog]

I think most of the factory spikes are just mild steel, 0.125" thick. It stamps easily, is strong enough and is cheap.
I've made quite a few but need to make more. Very few of the saws I buy have spikes on them. Canadians must be accident prone.
It sure would be quicker if I had access to a band saw.
The 630 and the 266XP I have both came with that goofy bumper bar instead of a spike. Good for saving the paint and bucking small wood I guess.

Limbing.......

 

[fossil]

Around the city here that might be legs and arms.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I think most of the factory spikes are just mild steel, 0.125" thick. It stamps easily, is strong enough and is cheap.
I've made quite a few but need to make more. Very few of the saws I buy have spikes on them. Canadians must be accident prone.
It sure would be quicker if I had access to a band saw.
The 630 and the 266XP I have both came with that goofy bumper bar instead of a spike. Good for saving the paint and bucking small wood I guess.

I made all my spikes from the mill steel...I remember it being decent metal. With my discount I bought a very nice Oxy/Acetylene torch.....borrowed some of their tanks. When I had my farm, I rented the tanks. Now the tanks are insane to rent and even crazier to buy(the big ones). It's like they're trying to force you to get those little half tanks, which I despise. In those days, I cut so much with the torch that I could do any design freehand and just remove the slag. I doubt if I'm that steady anymore....lol. The last dawgs I had made, the machine shop did with my design....geez I got lazy.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Seller on ebay from Roseburg OR has some 910 parts for sale, including a full wrap. He wants more for the full-wrap than I paid for my saw..lol No deals there, but if you need NOS ignition parts....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=jonsered+chainsaw

 

[Cantdog]

Speaking of 910s...been watching this one on ebay....he only lists for 24 hrs at a time......started at $125...now at $100......looks like a pretty good 910 to start an easy rebuild project with....I'm tempted..... but very cash poor presently.......might be worth checking out for someone though...it had an air filter Kevin.....LOL!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321789699025?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, a nice project/parts saw. I see it has the air filter...lol!

Never noticed that saw because it's not on the 910 page....seller isn't sure what it is. I'll see if I can get it...if nothing else, I'll have parts for someone else in need.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks for the heads up, Robin. Won the saw for $100....nobody bid against me....strange. I attribute that to the seller not knowing what model the saw was and high shipping? It's got more than that in it in parts. It's got that bottom rear handle AV bracket intact.....been looking for that and of course the AF. Jack was kind enough to send me an AF...I don't like using a saw without a spare AF around.

I know when I see it, I'm gonna get the urge to restore it...gotta fight that back. It's going to be cataloged and binned. Whatever I don't use off it for my other, I'll be happy to consider holding for someone here. Carriers are gonna try and destroy this saw coming clear across the country like that. Anything that comes to me from east of the Mississippi is usually beat all to hell. Fingers crossed....warned the seller about the shipping.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks for the heads up, Robin. Won the saw for $100....nobody bid against me....strange. I attribute that to the seller not knowing what model the saw was and high shipping? It's got more than that in it in parts. It's got that bottom rear handle AV bracket intact.....been looking for that and of course the AF. Jack was kind enough to send me an AF...I don't like using a saw without a spare AF around.

I know when I see it, I'm gonna get the urge to restore it...gotta fight that back. It's going to be cataloged and binned. Whatever I don't use off it for my other, I'll be happy to consider holding for someone here. Carriers are gonna try and destroy this saw coming clear across the country like that. Anything that comes to me from east of the Mississippi is usually beat all to hell. Fingers crossed....warned the seller about the shipping.

Kevin

Good enough Kevin.....glad to see someone here picked it up...hope it as good as it appeared...I think the reason no one bid either time was the fact he only ran the auctions in 24 hr runs......near impossible to generate the on going interest that drives prices up with multiple bidders on ebay in such a short time...and even more so since he didn't know what model it was.......ebay sales depend heavily on presentation...he didn't present very well......Score!!! Good luck!!

 

[67L36Driver]

Should a 930 have a comp release valve?

Looked at one yesterday and the seller had to start it for me as I didn't have enuff strength.

 

[Cantdog]

Should a 930 have a comp release valve?

Looked at one yesterday and the seller had to start it for me as I didn't have enuff strength.

Perhaps they should...but they don't......the only saw in that family that came with a decomp was the 910E.....

 

[fossil]

Any tips on installing the new fuel line and filter on my 630?

It would be easy to pull the line through the hole from the top but I don't want to break it if that's not the way. I'm hoping it's not like the older 026 Stihls.

Thanks

 

[Real1shepherd]

Good enough Kevin.....glad to see someone here picked it up...hope it as good as it appeared...I think the reason no one bid either time was the fact he only ran the auctions in 24 hr runs......near impossible to generate the on going interest that drives prices up with multiple bidders on ebay in such a short time...and even more so since he didn't know what model it was.......ebay sales depend heavily on presentation...he didn't present very well......Score!!! Good luck!!

I guess I don't get the 24hr auction runs. I never heard anybody doing that in general merchandise....maybe that's a carryover on some part of eBay I've never frequented? The muffler is totally caved in...just like someone peened it in on purpose...lol

I'll let everyone here know what it turns out to be, condition-wise!

Kevin

 

[Hoggwood]

Any tips on installing the new fuel line and filter on my 630?

It would be easy to pull the line through the hole from the top but I don't want to break it if that's not the way. I'm hoping it's not like the older 026 Stihls.

Thanks

I haven't done this yet but will be shortly Tim. I will (foolishly) offer advice. I think some folks that replaced these lines got them backward with the wide shoulder of the grommet external to the tank. The only way I can see it is to fish a straight piece of 14 gauge copper or similar through the tank from the carb box. Slide the new line with the shoulder to fit internal to the tank up the guide wire until it is coming through the tank hole. Pre-lube the wider section that friction fits into the hole and carefully pull/turn until the shoulder seats home against the inside top of the tank. Make sure to fix the filter in place before the line slips into the tank. It won't be happening after for certain.

I need to do 2 or 3 of these. Hopefully it is a fairly slick operation.