Jonsered Chainsaws

[rynosawr]

does anyone have an idea of how much Horsepower a J'reds 70E might have?

I just got a very nice one that was a Homeowner saw and I am thinking of keeping it with at least one cool mod I plan to make.


I also have a very cherry 630 J'reds that my Dad sent me earlier..... so I have to decide if I keep it and leave it stock or mod it and put a 272 piston and cylinder in it and sell the 70E..... I really can't keep both.....

 

[fossil]

does anyone have an idea of how much Horsepower a J'reds 70E might have?

I just got a very nice one that was a Homeowner saw and I am thinking of keeping it with at least one cool mod I plan to make.


I also have a very cherry 630 J'reds that my Dad sent me earlier..... so I have to decide if I keep it and leave it stock or mod it and put a 272 piston and cylinder in it and sell the 70E..... I really can't keep both.....

You must have landed in the wrong place. This is saw hoarder heaven.

 

[rynosawr]

Pics of my new-to-me 70E after a quick detail clean (it was nice to start with though)

A sharp eye will notice something missing in the last pic...


So.... I pulled the plug and brushed it off, checked for spark, dumped the old gas out, put in fresh mix, checked the chain oil, pulled 5 times and BINGO!!!

Idles wonderful and runs awesome!

This thing is a torquey beast!!

The exhaust sounds so sweet!





No pics of the 630 yet, but it also started after same treatment but doesn't want to idle.... Figuring on a carb kit for it.

 

[Real1shepherd]

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Pics of my new-to-me 70E after a quick detail clean (it was nice to start with though)

A sharp eye will notice something missing in the last pic...


So.... I pulled the plug and brushed it off, checked for spark, dumped the old gas out, put in fresh mix, checked the chain oil, pulled 5 times and BINGO!!!

Idles wonderful and runs awesome!

This thing is a torquey beast!!

The exhaust sounds so sweet!





No pics of the 630 yet, but it also started after same treatment but doesn't want to idle.... Figuring on a carb kit for it.

Any number of places have the correct muffler bolts....even the bay. Sweet 70...you should probably replace all the gas lines as a mater of course. Firewood saw from hell and OK for small scale loggin'. Plastic flywheel a known weakness if fitted. 4.29hp if my math is correct....call it 4.3hp...lol.

Kevin

 

[rynosawr]

Any number of places have the correct muffler bolts....even the bay. Sweet 70...you should probably replace all the gas lines as a mater of course. Firewood saw from hell and OK for small scale loggin'. Plastic flywheel a known weakness if fitted.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin!

Yeah, I gotta get a muffler bolt!


It does have the plastic flywheel..... for now....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks Kevin!

Yeah, I gotta get a muffler bolt!


It does have the plastic flywheel..... for now....

Robin & Eric here can tell ya more about the 70E....I think it had ignition module failures too....don't remember the details offhand. Still a very great J'red trooper in its time.

Kevin

 

[rynosawr]

Yeah, It seems like I have read that the early units (pre 158500 serial) with the plastic flywheel fans had a better ignition than the later ones with the aluminum fans and different ignitions

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks Kevin!

Yeah, I gotta get a muffler bolt!


It does have the plastic flywheel..... for now....

Very nice looking 70E....hope that muffler bolt is just missing and not broke off.....that metal tab is designed to lock the bolt in place by bending the corner up against a flat on the bolt head.

I believe the new versions had the better ign system....and I have been told that an Atom points eliminator or eq. will replace the trigger module that s NLA on the newer system. It is not as simple as just changing flywheels to change to the newer setup. On yours you'll have the plastic fan mounted to a metal flywheel center...under this is the NLA SEM Ign module and the spark coil is mounted out in the recoil cover. I'll try to explain it backwards from the recoil cover.....first you can't use the old recoil cover as the bosses to mount the coil on are in the way.....you either have to find a later cover or cut/grind the bosses off....then you can't use the cylinder either as the newer coil setup mounts directly on the cyl like a 49sp...so the parts you'll need are; a new recoil cover, new cylinder, new spark coil and trigger, new flywheel....all NLA......about 1/3 of the chainsaw......you would probably be able to use your piston in the new cyl, so that's something....

 

[Real1shepherd]

I haven't done this yet...but the Stihl folks are opening up the sealed modules and replacing I think a capacitor to make them work again. I don't see why this can't be done with most SEM's. It just takes someone with a bunch of 'bad' SEM's and some time to play around....now that so many of these are NLA.

Kevin

 

[rynosawr]

I am pretty handy with electronics... Maybe y'all could send me some to try to fix

 

[fossil]

Anyone have an IPL for an early 630? This would be the one with the straight fuel line and the two part metal / plastic brake flag.

I ordered a fuel line for mine towards getting it fixed up.

 

[Cantdog]

I haven't done this yet...but the Stihl folks are opening up the sealed modules and replacing I think a capacitor to make them work again. I don't see why this can't be done with most SEM's. It just takes someone with a bunch of 'bad' SEM's and some time to play around....now that so many of these are NLA.

Kevin

Over half the time it isn't the SEM that failed.....the wire insulation right where both wires go into the SEM has chipped away and they short to ground or each other. I've had about 50/50 recovery rates by separating the wires and applying several coats of liquid tape.....worth a shot........ but getting into a plastic sealed module is beyond my abilities...good luck. One of the things about the older SEM for the 70E I should mention is the fact that though the part #s are different the 52E and 70E modules are identical....it is only the length of the two wires that cause the different part numbers......you can easily extend the wires on a 52E module to work on a 70E.....

 

[SawTroll]

does anyone have an idea of how much Horsepower a J'reds 70E might have?

.....

I believe the spec was 4.4 hp.

 

[Hoggwood]

Anyone have an IPL for an early 630? This would be the one with the straight fuel line and the two part metal / plastic brake flag.

I ordered a fuel line for mine towards getting it fixed up.

I sent you what I have Tim. It is from '87 and it appears to be covering the older parts.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I believe the spec was 4.4 hp.

Depends how you calculate it...I think 4.4hp is optimistic. It's really around 4.29 and I rounded up to 4.3hp.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Over half the time it isn't the SEM that failed.....the wire insulation right where both wires go into the SEM has chipped away and they short to ground or each other. I've had about 50/50 recovery rates by separating the wires and applying several coats of liquid tape.....worth a shot........ but getting into a plastic sealed module is beyond my abilities...good luck. One of the things about the older SEM for the 70E I should mention is the fact that though the part #s are different the 52E and 70E modules are identical....it is only the length of the two wires that cause the different part numbers......you can easily extend the wires on a 52E module to work on a 70E.....

It would seem that the Stihl & Husky SEM's are the ones they're breaking into....mostly the Stihl. I thought about trying this with a failed 2100 SEM. But only if I thought it was a clean, doable, durable repair. The going price for a NOS Husky 2100 SEM is about $150.00.

I think you're right on the J'reds....more about deteriorating wire insulation than an actual bad SEM module.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I am pretty handy with electronics... Maybe y'all could send me some to try to fix

Ty to repair the wire insulation first like Robin said....definitely worth a shot.

Kevin

 

[rynosawr]

luckily, mine looks and works awesome, but I would like to know that we can repair them and I would like a spare if I get to keep this saw....

It is growing on me quickly....... classic looks, awesome design, smooth operation of all parts, nothing cheap that I have seen except for the plastic flywheel..... everything else is really impressively constructed.

 

[SawTroll]

Depends how you calculate it...I think 4.4hp is optimistic. It's really around 4.29 and I rounded up to 4.3hp.

Kevin

I assume the basic spec really was 3.2 kw, and if so that translates into 4.3 or 4.4 depends on if the hp is hp(i) or hp(m). Hp(m) is what commonly is used on chainsaws though, except on some recent Husky and Stihl models, that oddly are rated in hp(i) on the US market. They are rated in hp(m) in Europe.

Both are bhp, so that designation doesn't mean anything, regarding the difference between hp(m) and hp(i).

Exact calculations on one decimal kW numbers are "risky" anyway, but 1,00 kW basically is 1.34 hp(i), and 1.36 hp(m).

 

[Real1shepherd]

luckily, mine looks and works awesome, but I would like to know that we can repair them and I would like a spare if I get to keep this saw....

It is growing on me quickly....... classic looks, awesome design, smooth operation of all parts, nothing cheap that I have seen except for the plastic flywheel..... everything else is really impressively constructed.

You're singing to the choir here like Tim said....we try to keep most everything. In fact....you know you have CAD really bad when you buy a parts saw and the first thing you do with it is figure out how to restore it. I only cataloged a few saws fully....and only because the cases were cracked...lol

Kevin