Jonsered Chainsaws

[SawTroll]

The Oregon catalog specs the D009 bar slot at 9.0 mm but it makes no sense they would produce one that tight to the stud size. Even the paint in the slot would pose an issue. I suspect they make them oversize to prevent fit up issues.

I do have an Oregon D009 mount bar that mic'd out at 9.1 mm and I had to take a file to it to get it to fit. It was fairly easy considering the cheesy steel they are using now.

The numbers are nominal, not exact.

 

[SawTroll]

This what I remember seeing in yrs past when talking about Husky large mount:http://www.acresinternet.com/

Like a lot of things as the yrs past, standards get relabeled. Was probably easier at some point to call the bar opening the same as the stud to avoid confusion? Anyway, you have to have some slop in the mount opening to slap a bar in there and keep working. I have measured my old Husky bars and Oregon bars(for the Husky large mount) as stated previously and they range from 9.5mm to 10mm. Haven't really mic-ed out the J'red bars, except that the larger 10mm Husky large mount bars got used on the 80/90's. Except the Carlton bar, which I made bigger...Baileys sold me that turd under the assumption that it would be "easy" to open up the mount slot.

Kevin

The mistake on Acres site for the D009 is well known, nominally it is 9mm, not 9.5 - and deviation as large as you indicate surely isn't common - I have never seen anything like that with the correct mount pattern.

Anyway, it is better the snugger the fit is - so the bar points in the normal direction when the chain tension is done right. It makes the chain tension less sensitive to slightly loose bar nuts as well.

 

[SawTroll]

I picked this up yesterday. It needs a little attention but is in great condition. I'm not sure if I want to fix or sell ...

A very nice fairly late production 621, that even have the plug cover intact.

Keep it!

 

[MnSam]

I have decided to keep it. It seems to be a nice example, but the p/c is scored. I believe the culprit to be the base gasket. This was a leak point for the vac/pressure check. Given the apparent age of the gasket and the evidence pointing towards the fact I'm the first one into the saw, I'm guessing this gasket was improperly installed upon original assembly. The cylinder cleaned up very nicely, probably the easiest cylinder clean I've done. I cleaned the piston as well, some light work with a scotch bright brought it to this. Would you use it? (given the fact a new oem piston + rings would be $70-80)

Here is a gasket view from the intake side. You can see it is pushed towards the exhaust side, riding up onto the cylinder skirt.

Here is another view, the exhaust side being on the right. You can see the gasket is pushed completely off the cylinder flange.

The bolt holes obviously didn't line up with the gasket ... sad

 

[Real1shepherd]

I picked this up yesterday. It needs a little attention but is in great condition. I'm not sure if I want to fix or sell ...

Very nice 621!! I'd keep that puppy, unless you don't want a saw that will last you the rest of your work life, or you hate low-end torque...lol. Piston might be iffy, although I'm sure it cleaned up remarkably to what it looked like coming outa there. Try Robin's redneck piston test;plug the spark plug hole or just screw a plug in there, turn the piston upside down in your hand, drop the piston in place without its rings.....if it takes a sec or two to sink to the bottom(which is actually the top of the jug, lol)....you're good to go. If it just shoots/clunks down, pitch it.

Depends on what you're really gonna do with the saw. If you intend to work it and you 'stole' it, $70-$80 into a OEM piston and rings is very reasonable. What I do in a situation like this usually, is clean up the jug & slug and if they pass the redneck test, I use them. But in the meanwhile I look for an OE or OEM jug & slug. Now if I was putting the saw into an immediate heavy duty work situation, I'd refresh both the jug & slug unless the jug looked fantastic(which they certainly can on low hrs saws).

Kevin

 

[MnSam]

Now you tell me. It takes a few seconds to reach bottom, pretty cool, haven't heard of that little trick. However I have already ordered a new piston and rings. I figure since I only had $25 bucks into it so far I'd splurge a little. I'll set the old piston aside for now.

 

[Real1shepherd]

The mistake on Acres site for the D009 is well known, nominally it is 9mm, not 9.5 - and deviation as large as you indicate surely isn't common - I have never seen anything like that with the correct mount pattern.

Anyway, it is better the snugger the fit is - so the bar points in the normal direction when the chain tension is done right. It makes the chain tension less sensitive to slightly loose bar nuts as well.

As I've told you before, there is the reality of what happens in the field and what you see on paper. It makes no sense from a machinist's standpoint that you mill out the bar exactly to 9mm to fit a 9mm bar stud. You have to have some play...when you're loggin' professionally, the last thing you want is to be dicking around trying to fit a too tight bar slot on its two studs. 9.5mm is not too sloppy to work well on the 9mm bar studs...if anything it's preferable. That's why when you tension a bar, you rest it on wood and lightly push down on the power head.....that simulates the future position the bar will want to become as you work it.

I'm sorry Niko, but on this one you're talking through your hat.

Kevin

 

[MnSam]

I see a cylinder gasket and intake block gasket are NLA, I'll have to try my hand at making those I guess.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Now you tell me. It takes a few seconds to reach bottom, pretty cool, haven't heard of that little trick. However I have already ordered a new piston and rings. I figure since I only had $25 bucks into it so far I'd splurge a little. I'll set the old piston aside for now.

Sorry, baby grandson sick and one of my dogs got hit by a car yesterday....haven't been online in a few days.

It's not uncommon for those gasket sets to show up on ebay...try that guy that has the big J'red OE parts listings on eBay.....go back a few pages to see Tim's link.

Kevin

 

[SawTroll]

As I've told you before, there is the reality of what happens in the field and what you see on paper. It makes no sense from a machinist's standpoint that you mill out the bar exactly to 9mm to fit a 9mm bar stud. You have to have some play...when you're loggin' professionally, the last thing you want is to be dicking around trying to fit a too tight bar slot on its two studs. 9.5mm is not too sloppy to work well on the 9mm bar studs...if anything it's preferable. That's why when you tension a bar, you rest it on wood and lightly push down on the power head.....that simulates the future position the bar will want to become as you work it.

I'm sorry Niko, but on this one you're talking through your hat.

Kevin

Of course the slot has to be be slightly larger than the bolts to allow for production toleranses etc, but halv a mm is a lot.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Of course the slot has to be be slightly larger than the bolts to allow for production toleranses etc, but halv a mm is a lot.

You can't change what I bought or what i measured. None of the old Oregon bars and Husky bars I bought have been modified in any way. They measure as I said before between 9.5mm and 10mm(for one), but mostly around 9.5mm. They've had long professional service lives with no problems whatsoever. And no, the bar studs didn't ream them out over time. For that to have happened, there would be appreciable wear on the studs and evidence on the bars...there is none. Half a mm is not a lot in terms of slop on a bar/power head fitment.

Kevin

 

[dakotan2]

Sorry, baby grandson sick and one of my dogs got hit by a car yesterday....haven't been online in a few days.

It's not uncommon for those gasket sets to show up on ebay...try that guy that has the big J'red OE parts listings on eBay.....go back a few pages to see Tim's link.

Kevin

Wow, sorry to hear it Kevin. I hope they are both doing well.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Wow, sorry to hear it Kevin. I hope they are both doing well.

Thank you, the baby turned the corner about the time I took him to the doc on Monday afternoon...lol.

The dog is a 33lb, 12yr old Irish Terrier that was hit by a car and winds up with just some meat missing off her front leg. Incredible...toughest dog I ever had. My son left me with his Pit Bill many yrs back and when the two play, it's really rough. The Pit got that Irish about as tough as a little dog can get. I knew the Pit would be fine around the baby, but was concerned about the Irish. The exact inverse happened;Irish bonds with the baby big time and the Pit runs from him most of the time....although they're starting to bond now....LOL!

Kevin

 

[dakotan2]

Glad to hear it all worked out well, both are unpleasant things to go through!

 

[heimannm]

Not much to go on here but an old friend asked me to look into this. He has an older Silver Top Jonsered saw, serial number tag is 889238 in need of a recoil spring.

Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

Mark

 

[Real1shepherd]

Just answered you on another saw site...lol. I can't do it by serial, but maybe Robin or Eric can. I think the recoil spring which is usually sold with its case, will fit many model silver tops.....although for example, I have different parts #'s for the 80 & 90 recoil springs. I understand that you don't have a pic, but that limits our help unless someone can do this by the serial. That serial sounds a lot like maybe the 80 model.....I dunno

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

504 21 26 01 is the part number Mark.........in true Jonsereds fasion that recoil spring cartridge fits eveything from the 621 to the 111S.......should be no problem to find on ebay etc. The serial number is useless unless it is at a major production change like the 70 E going from early to late models...ie; 158500 and below is early 158501 and above is late.....the 90's did the same thing... changed a number of parts at a certain production number......sorry this has been batted around for years there seems to be no "code" to the numbers....just sequential numbering of units.....

 

[sawfun]

Mark, it is likely that it is either a 621 or an 80. If the air filter is completely round them I'm thinking 80, if it is mostly round with a flat on the bottom then 621.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Mark, it is likely that it is either a 621 or an 80. If the air filter is completely round them I'm thinking 80, if it is mostly round with a flat on the bottom then 621.

They alternated the round/bottom flat AF cover with the round AF cover on even the same models like the 80. Typically, if it was a round/bottom flat AF cover it was mated to that mettle mesh filter and if it was the round AF cover it was the nylon mesh/flocked filter. I have 80's that came both ways.

Kevin

 

[heimannm]

I seem to be gaining some traction on this one, thanks everyone for your help.

540 21 26-01 seems to be the one I am looking for .

Mark