Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

I'd guess that was an add on guide as well....weird, but functional. Maybe you could eval how hard it would be to put it back like it was. My guess is that the saw was poorly maintained and was a real bear to start...hence the additional guide bracket.

What do the jug & slug look like?

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

What do the jug & slug look like?

They look good. Just realized I'm missing the wrist pin bearing though.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Probably won't have a problem with the wrist pin bearing....the wrist pin though, that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish.

J'red used some kinda gas tank coating in their older saws....which are peeling and dysfunctional now. I thought at first it was some kinda sealing tank repair, but I'm seeing it all through my older saws. You can split the case and get it all out, or BB & lacquer thinner the mess outa there.

Kevin

 

[Zero_sum]

It looks like something was inside the crank and put some scars in the case. Still very usable though and the crank and bearings look good.
Bonus, all the gaskets came off in one piece!!

View attachment 480007

Nice.... Looking forward to the progress.

 

[sawfun]

I have a few 50cc jonsered questions for the experienced Jonny guys. First, what cutting differences are there between a 52E, a 2051/2055 and a 490/590? Which group of saws is stronger? And what are the differences between a 490 and 590? Thanks

 

[Chris J.]

I have a few 50cc jonsered questions for the experienced Jonny guys. First, what cutting differences are there between a 52E, a 2051/2055 and a 490/590? Which group of saws is stronger? And what are the differences between a 490 and 590? Thanks

Sawfun, I can only give a very general reply since my experiences are limited.

Here on AS, the 490 & 590 are considered to be excellent saws that are actually Partner saws, or mostly Partner designs (more knowledgeable folks here at AS can provide the details). The 2051/2055 are solid saws, "newer" saws with better parts availability. I'd be leery of using a 52E for heavy use simply because finding parts should something go wrong might be difficult.

From CSCC:

490
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...ef13ba226761052b88256b6b0018b69f?OpenDocument

590
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...bfd14cfc4f01fa8988256b6b001a6fca?OpenDocument

52E
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...9499b0258b5f279788256b69007bfa6d?OpenDocument

 

[Cantdog]

Good assessment.....but the 490 and 590 are in about the same boat as the 52E as far as parts are concerned.....and the 52E is the heaviest/slowest saw of the bunch...but also built the heaviest duty as well....ign module is the weak point and the hardest part to find.......from a durability/reliability standpoint the regular 52 (points model) would be, perhaps a better choice for the oldies.

 

[leecopland]

You have left out the 49SP which will certainly upset Cantdog!

 

[Chris J.]

Good assessment.....but the 490 and 590 are in about the same boat as the 52E as far as parts are concerned.....and the 52E is the heaviest/slowest saw of the bunch...but also built the heaviest duty as well....ign module is the weak point and the hardest part to find.......from a durability/reliability standpoint the regular 52 (points model) would be, perhaps a better choice for the oldies.

I know that the 490 & 590 pistons (and cylinders?) are (were??) very difficult to find. I should've clarified that for heavy use I'd definitely want to run the 'newer' 2051/2055.

 

[Cantdog]

You have left out the 49SP which will certainly upset Cantdog!

True...my favorite.....but alas.....the lowly 49SP is but a cheaply built 52....though slightly more modern design in some respects.....

 

[Real1shepherd]

I dunno...go just a bit larger to a 621(56cc) and you'll have a saw that will probably outlive you....tough as an old shoe, parts plentiful on eBay, albeit mostly used.

It's hard to get away from the low-end torque and durability of the old silver tops. Plus as Robin said, some of the electronic modules in the newer(but discontinued) saws are very hard to find and when you do, you pay HIGH.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I dunno...go just a bit larger to a 621(56cc) and you'll have a saw that will probably outlive you....tough as an old shoe, parts plentiful on eBay, albeit mostly used.

It's hard to get away from the low-end torque and durability of the old silver tops. Plus as Robin said, some of the electronic modules in the newer(but discontinued) saws are very hard to find and when you do, you pay HIGH.

Kevin

Yep hard to beat a 621 for durability and smooth operation....regular 52 is the same type of build design.... just smaller......

 

[turtle561]

brake on positionbrake on position
the brake band and spring came for the jonsered 625( late model) i'm going through. see pics.
i have experience with husky brakes but this one is different. i got thespring loaded and it's plastic cover on, but cannot get it cocked to the off position. i don't want to do any damage. is there a special tool ? there was no band or main spring when i got it.
i did asearch but only found husky videos. there must be a wrinkle to it i'm just not seeing.
thanks

 

[leecopland]

True...my favorite.....but alas.....the lowly 49SP is but a cheaply built 52....though slightly more modern design in some respects.....

On the Acres site the 49sp and 52 look almost identical although I've know him to use the same photo for different saws.

 

[sawfun]

Thanks everybody for your input.the 49 has a red top the 52 a black one. Are there other external differences?

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks everybody for your input.the 49 has a red top the 52 a black one. Are thely re other external differences?

There can be.... depending on the age of the 52/52E.......on the late ones the line is further blurred, with the color being about the only difference. The early 52's had a metal bottom piece to the trigger handle like the 621, 80 etc,.......the 49 always had the wide flat plastic bottom piece lower piece and the late 52's changed to that as well. Just about all the major differences between the 49 and 52/52E are in the P&C , ign and flywheel.....interestingly enough.....though the pistons are totally different they can be swapped between the 49SP, 52/52E and the 521.....now when you mention the 521...that, although though it is similar in looks has a totally different flywheel side case half, flywheel, recoil, ign system than all the others in this family....

 

[Chris J.]

View attachment 480335 View attachment 480335 View attachment 480334 View attachment 480334 brake on positionView attachment 480331brake on position
the brake band and spring came for the jonsered 625( late model) i'm going through. see pics.
i have experience with husky brakes but this one is different. i got thespring loaded and it's plastic cover on, but cannot get it cocked to the off position. i don't want to do any damage. is there a special tool ? there was no band or main spring when i got it.
i did asearch but only found husky videos. there must be a wrinkle to it i'm just not seeing.
thanks

Turtle561, I don't know if this will help.

I have clutch cover for a 670 (that also fits other models) very much like the one in the IPL image you posted, and the chain brake won't "lock" into the off position. I don't know if this is the issue, but one side of the open slot on part # 501 87 47-01 is cracked.

 

[turtle561]

thanks chris- i checked my part 501 87 47-01 and it looks good. i can get my lever to lock without the main spring in place. it seems to be too long even though it is the correct part # as ,shown in the ipl. it looks to be 3 or 4 'coils' too long.
i found a blog on the 272 clutch which looks similar to ours and it mentions the main spring is 3.33" long. mine is longer.
how long is your main spring ? 503 46 59-01 in the ipl.
thanks

 

[Hoggwood]

Hi folks,

I am getting around to putting a 630 together. I threw new bearings, and a crank and oil pump (so far) from a 61. Case halves are together now.

I am looking for advice on whether to use the two-ring, skirted, original piston or the single ring from the 61. Both are in decent shape. I am guessing the single ring 61 may be the better choice. But, I wanted to ask before I advance further.

How about leaving out the cylinder base gasket? I am out of solder to measure squish. Thanks guys.

 

[Cantdog]

Well........I guess it would depend on your end gap on the 630 piston......those are the infamous "thin rings" in the pic which are NLA.....if your rings will give you ,0.003" to say 0.006" end gap I'd go with them...the piston looks pretty good from the pics. Of course you can get a windowed 630 piston in regular thickness rings in either 1 or 2 ring configurations. You will want to use a windowed piston in the closed port 630 cyl....not the flat sided 61 piston.......unless you are using the open port 61 cyl as well.....