Jonsered Chainsaws

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I have a full wrap on my 89, and both my 111s'. I'd really like one for my one of my 70E's.

....and a 52.....

.......and the 2051......
 
Too bad Bailey's doesn't have any archival written history that I'm aware of. Just a business like many, that kept pushing forward and no one to say 'hey, we ought to put something about our past in each catalog we send out.' My experience with Bailey's in the last ten yrs or so is that the 'old guard' is completely gone. Agonizingly for me, they found a batch of those old Oregon .404 bar tips, with the half-moon three rivet pattern. Sold them all by the time I found out about it. There's also a AS forum member that has a whole bucket of them(saw the pic), but he's like a hoarder from hell and just wanted to trade for them......but never could get him to move on them.

Anybody that worked at Bailey's during the era of the 70E could tell ya if they were ever fitted with full-wraps. I don't know the size if the saw body, but assuming a 80/90 full-wrap won't fit? What about the 621...would a full-wrap from that saw fit?

Pretty much in the PNW, if a saw showed up on a logging site or was used in serious scale production, the dealers were asked if they could get a full-wrap for it.

Kevin
 
Too bad Bailey's doesn't have any archival written history that I'm aware of. Just a business like many, that kept pushing forward and no one to say 'hey, we ought to put something about our past in each catalog we send out.' My experience with Bailey's in the last ten yrs or so is that the 'old guard' is completely gone. Agonizingly for me, they found a batch of those old Oregon .404 bar tips, with the half-moon three rivet pattern. Sold them all by the time I found out about it. There's also a AS forum member that has a whole bucket of them(saw the pic), but he's like a hoarder from hell and just wanted to trade for them......but never could get him to move on them.

Anybody that worked at Bailey's during the era of the 70E could tell ya if they were ever fitted with full-wraps. I don't know the size if the saw body, but assuming a 80/90 full-wrap won't fit? What about the 621...would a full-wrap from that saw fit?

Pretty much in the PNW, if a saw showed up on a logging site or was used in serious scale production, the dealers were asked if they could get a full-wrap for it.

Kevin

Nope the 66/70E was a saw family all to itself......as was the 621....neither the same as each other or any other saws....well...except the 62 which is exactly the same as the 621 as far as the top handle is concerned...the handle mount on the clutch side is slightly different between the 62 and 621 but the half wrap is the same.
 
I scored a pretty nice jonsered 801. I was thinking about rebuilding it. It really doesn't need much. It's got good compression @ 195 psi cylinder looks good and has great spark. I really don't have a need for another big saw nor the time. I've already got a lightly modded 6421 which is more than enough for me.

Soo here's the question.....

Do I part it out and sell it? Is there enough need for this saw to part out?

Or is it worth hanging on to?

What do you all think?
 
You could do either. More money in perhaps parting it out....but there's the time involved and selling in groups on eBay to get maximum dollars. Just selling a running, complete 801 now, during firewood season may yield you excellent results. It's all in the pics and word presentation.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
You could do either. More money in perhaps parting it out....but there's the time involved and selling in groups on eBay to get maximum dollars. Just selling a running, complete 801 now, during firewood season may yield you excellent results. It's all in the pics and word presentation.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk


I've got the cylinder off of it right now. Going to make a base gasket for it and reassemble. Only thing im missing is the air filter cover it looks like.I'll take pics of it apart later.
 
No real "specs" per se. More a universally accepted "safe clearance" of .o25" to .030" minimum. Any number of threads here can show how to measure it. I personally use a length of solder slipped in through the spark plug hole. Just have to be extra careful not to clip it in the transfers.
 
Thanks sir.. I've already got the jug off.so I'll check it without the gasket to see where we are.
 
I've got the cylinder off of it right now. Going to make a base gasket for it and reassemble. Only thing im missing is the air filter cover it looks like.I'll take pics of it apart later.
Air filter covers are out there..... I bought a spare for my 90 off the bay. 801 uses the same cover as the 90. Top cover is the same too, but there should be a rubber plug where the decomp is.

Keep your base gasket paper thin.
Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
For my J89, I used a thin bead of Threebond instead of a base gasket. The factory gasket I took out was .007" thick. With no gasket I had over .030" clearance at the squish band. The older Jred bottom ends are build like tanks.
 

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