Jonsered Chainsaws

[Heffalump]

A wise man once said:
Long and thin may fit in, but short and thick will do the trick.

 

[Jacklefty]

A wise man once said:
Long and thin may fit in, but short and thick will do the trick.

Haaa haaa! Very wise....goes by the nick name "Tuna can".

 

[Cantdog]

Hmmmmm......been out to the island for a few daze....recharging from the Buenos Aries trip.....a lot to catch up on!!!!! Can't even address all this in one post....

Niko has spoken to the time frames.....he is certainly more informed than me on these saws becoming saws without an s......so I would take his statements as pretty damn near true......I've argued with him before on obscure "facts" and don't actually remember ever winning...LOL!!! The 801 from the pics shown and comp figures...it would really like a new set of Cabers.....it will run fine as is...but the plain fact is any saw with more than 200 hrs run time on it will benefit from new rings....always.....won't be needed necessarily but will run better and stronger....longer...rings is cheap and if you already have it apart......it's a no brainer......nice saw but should be running 220+ comp......just sayin'......if you need to be sure, measure the end gap on both rings halfway between the top of the exhaust port and the squish band........for this cyl it should be 0.006-0.008"...maybe 0.010......anything over these figures is showing wear......

 

[SawTroll]

Speaking of year ranges. Is there any way to effectively date my 801 that I'm building?

Not by "decoding" the number - but there may still be someone that knows enough about the serial number range of the model to say something meaningful (but not exact) based on it (I am not)?

Some pictures may also help, as I don't think the saws looked exactly the same all the time - at least the design of the starter cover changed, as I remember it. Usually it is hard to know if replacement parts are involved though, so this alone isn't a reliable way to date a saw - at best an indication on "older" vs. "newer".

 

[Jacklefty]

Not by "decoding" the number - but there may still be someone that knows enough about the serial number range of the model to say something meaningful (but not exact) based on it?

Some pictures may also help, as I don't think the saws looked exactly the same all the time - at least the design of the starter cover changed, as I remember it. Usually it is hard to know if replacement parts are involved though, so this alone isn't a reliable way to date a saw - at best an indication on "older" vs. "newer".

K ill post more pics. The saw is apart right now.

 

[SawTroll]

K ill post more pics. The saw is apart right now.

I found your pictures, and I would say that it is a relatively early one, based on the look of the starter cover.

 

[Jacklefty]

I found your pictures, and I would say that it is a relatively early one, based on the look of the starter cover.

Thanks k you sir! Is 195 psi compression still a good number for thoes?

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks k you sir! Is 195 psi compression still a good number for thoes?

LOL!! As I said that is not...bad compression, depending on your gauge and number of pulls......my, never apart 80 (same P&C) runs 238 lbs of compression...religiously .....and has for years and years.....these are strong saws......way different than the later versions.

 

[Jacklefty]

LOL!! As I said that is not...bad compression, depending on your gauge and number of pulls......my, never apart 80 (same P&C) runs 238 lbs of compression...religiously .....and has for years and years.....these are strong saws......way different than the later versions.

Is it easy to get rings for the 801?

 

[Real1shepherd]

So my 801 came with a 10" 3/8 bar. Is that too small of a bar for this saw? Or is there any such thing as too small?

Is that a typo...you mean 20"?

All about balance....801is old school heavy. Too small a bar will make it 'butt' heavy, like a poorly balanced hand gun.

Maybe someone who has used that small a bar on a 80/801 could chime in. Seems kind of a waste with that much power.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Jacklefty]

Is that a typo...you mean 20"?

All about balance....801is old school heavy. Too small a bar will make it 'butt' heavy, like a poorly balanced hand gun.

Maybe someone who has used that small a bar on a 80/801 could chime in. Seems kind of a waste with that much power.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

Yes a typo...20"...haa didn't catch that.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Cabers are available, cheap and awesome. Serials CAN tell you what range your saw was made with respect to others....but you need their serials too.... lol. Doesn't give yr of production, but where you fall in that range. Now.....if you got lucky and found two original owners that remember when they bought their saws and one had a low serial and the other had a high serial....you could extrapolate somewhat....lol.

Like was said, you really can't tell by looks, because anything in the way of replacement parts could have found their way on the saws by now. Bill of sale is the best with these of course.

Too bad we don't have an old dealer that kept records of when he sold saws and their respective serials. I think with my 90, I figured it was a high production number....compared to two others I found. My plate fell off the 80....so who knows there ...lol My Arkansas 90 is the only low hr J'reds I own and with all original parts...including the sintered bronze fitting on the end of the carb vent. It's bone stock. The others have had parts replaced and/or scabbed. Also, there's a little wire that shares one of the carb top plate screws...it holds the vent tube as it passes by. Most are long gone by now....but it was there originally.

Use the "Wigglesworth" method to polish your jug, throw in some Cabers and hold on after about four tankfuls.

We should call this 80/801/90 month....lol!

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[SawTroll]

..... Serials CAN tell you what range your saw was made with respect to others....but you need their serials too.... lol. Doesn't give yr of production, but where you fall in that range. Now.....if you got lucky and found two original owners that remember when they bought their saws and one had a low serial and the other had a high serial....you could extrapolate somewhat....lol.

.....

Yes, that's pretty much how it looks to me - and unlike several other older Jonsereds there are no systematically collected list of serial numbers on the 80/801/81/90 on that Swedish based collectors forum (only two 80s listed, that's all). The reason is of course that the owners of such saws haven't reported them on said forum (links to it are no longer allowed here, which is a pity).

However, there is of course a possibility that someone has seen a lot of those saws, and made his own list of the serial numbers.....

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks k you sir! Is 195 psi compression still a good number for thoes?

Generally a good number (actually high on most stock saws) - just not on the older Jonsereds saws, then it is a relatively low one.

It is very likely that new rings will bring it up to "normal" numbers for the model, as @Cantdog and others have indicated - and then you can just as well use caber rings. As you already have the saw apart, it isn't much trouble to install new ones.

 

[Cantdog]

Is it easy to get rings for the 801?

Yes you want 52mm X 1.5MM This place used to be a sponsor.....not sure if they still are but very good to do business with....quick reasonable shipping...good prices..

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php

 

[Real1shepherd]

Cabers are available, cheap and awesome. Serials CAN tell you what range your saw was made with respect to others....but you need their serials too.... lol. Doesn't give yr of production, but where you fall in that range. Now.....if you got lucky and found two original owners that remember when they bought their saws and one had a low serial and the other had a high serial....you could extrapolate somewhat....lol.

Like was said, you really can't tell by looks, because anything in the way of replacement parts could have found their way on the saws by now. Bill of sale is the best with these of course.

Too bad we don't have an old dealer that kept records of when he sold saws and their respective serials. I think with my 90, I figured it was a high production number....compared to two others I found. My plate fell off the 80....so who knows there ...lol My Arkansas 90 is the only low hr J'reds I own and with all original parts...including the sintered bronze fitting on the end of the carb vent. It's bone stock. The others have had parts replaced and/or scabbed. Also, there's a little wire that shares one of the carb top plate screws...it holds the vent tube as it passes by. Most are long gone by now....but it was there originally.

Use the "Wigglesworth" method to polish your jug, throw in some Cabers and hold on after about four tankfuls.

We should call this 80/801/90 month....lol!

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

I meant tank vent, not carb vent....lol.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Jacklefty]

Is it easy to get rings for the 801?

Yes you want 52mm X 1.5MM This place used to be a sponsor.....not sure if they still are but very good to do business with....quick reasonable shipping...good prices..

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php

Thanks sir! I got two cabers coming. Will find out and do the "wigglesworth" method on the jug

 

[Jacklefty]

Cabers are available, cheap and awesome. Serials CAN tell you what range your saw was made with respect to others....but you need their serials too.... lol. Doesn't give yr of production, but where you fall in that range. Now.....if you got lucky and found two original owners that remember when they bought their saws and one had a low serial and the other had a high serial....you could extrapolate somewhat....lol.

Like was said, you really can't tell by looks, because anything in the way of replacement parts could have found their way on the saws by now. Bill of sale is the best with these of course.

Too bad we don't have an old dealer that kept records of when he sold saws and their respective serials. I think with my 90, I figured it was a high production number....compared to two others I found. My plate fell off the 80....so who knows there ...lol My Arkansas 90 is the only low hr J'reds I own and with all original parts...including the sintered bronze fitting on the end of the carb vent. It's bone stock. The others have had parts replaced and/or scabbed. Also, there's a little wire that shares one of the carb top plate screws...it holds the vent tube as it passes by. Most are long gone by now....but it was there originally.

Use the "Wigglesworth" method to polish your jug, throw in some Cabers and hold on after about four tankfuls.

We should call this 80/801/90 month....lol!

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

Sorry for the double post, what is the"wigglesworth" method?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Sorry for the double post, what is the"wigglesworth" method?

Oh there's a YouTube video on it by one if the saw builders. It's using a brown ScotchBrite pad and a custom drill mandrel to polish the bore.

I don't have it bookmarked, but it's not hard to find. I think the builder is Mastermind.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Jacklefty]

Oh there's a YouTube video on it by one if the saw builders. It's using a brown ScotchBrite pad and a custom drill mandrel to polish the bore.

I don't have it bookmarked, but it's not hard to find. I think the builder is Mastermind.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

Sweet! That's the same thing I've done to my dolmar 112. I'll look it up. Appreciated