Jonsered Chainsaws
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Jacklefty
ArboristSite Operative
Haa haa! That's what I was hoping. I made a few cuts with it the other day before I tore it down and was suprised! I had more gaskets to replace but I couldn't help but run it before I tore her down and she is a torque monster!
Just a Guy that cuts wood
ArboristSite Guru
80/90 set up and ready to go .I took off the .404 rim / bar / chain . 3/8 set up now started with the 7 tooth rim next trip I will try the 8 tooth
Wow this thing runs . I am impressed !!!2 thing need to be worked out
First what is the oil screw set at ? I am at 2 1/2 turns out and slinging oil on 28 inch bar
On google found a post at 1 1/2 but may as well ask people who run them?
Second throttle stuck one time wide open ? It was at the end of the day Just pinched the trigger and it came unstuck and worked
fine . When I got home I pulled the top cover I am not sure what caused it . It looks clean for a saw unless I have wood chips in the rear handle
IDK Has that happened to one of you
Since I use my 80 and 90 with max length .404, .058 gauge bars, I max out the oiler...maybe half a turn in from unscrewing. That's only a problem on any adjustable oiler if you're running out of oil WAY before you run outa gas. Lots of oil slinging out is a good thing to maintain cutter sharpness. Especially in high water/sap cutting....or prolonged horizontal cuts.
Being stuck on high throttle is not a common caveat with the 80 and 90. Could be inside the air box or something in the handle.... dunno without seeing the saw.
Kevin
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I would also add that I adjust all my pro saws to run out of oil just a bit before running out of gas. I can immediately tell when the oil runs out and that way there are no surprises.....like if I'm in the back cut of a large tree and it runs outa gas....potentially dangerous situation. Especially in Alder. Screw Alder...I don't even cut it anymore ha, ha!
Kevin
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Kevin
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Jacklefty
ArboristSite Operative
I am on the fence in keeping mine... I guess I'll make up my mind when she is running.....or maybe not. Maybe I'll keep it...I've never had my throttle stick on that saw. Could be many many years of gunk inside the handle.....
You're gonna keep that saw.....it's too badazz to get rid of......
uuugh....to many projects too little time.
Just a Guy that cuts wood
ArboristSite Guru
This ones a keeper
A lot of torque
This is my first Jonsered but so far anyway not my last .
A lot of torque
This is my first Jonsered but so far anyway not my last .
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I gave me 70E to my BIL because the torque was more than I could handle. It will literally pull logs right into you or you towards them. I figured I would get hurt if I kept using it.
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The younger lions would tell ya the one ring, high revving saws are the best saws ever. Obviously, they haven't run the older torque building saws against new. Hell yeah the newer saws are much lighter...but 'better' in the forest, don't think so. I've actually had younger guys stop cutting and wander over to see what I was using. I could be wrong, but that's how I see it.
Kevin
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It's all in the technique and experience....any strong, motorised tool can hurt you, or kill ya.
Those two man saws with the idiot end....I can't see how anybody used those day in and day out....but they did and successfully.
Kevin
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Heffalump
Y'all Mofo's Need Jesus
The 70E is a single ring, and it is one of my favorites to run. The exhaust note is phenomenal, and what @briantutt said about it pulling logs is totally accurate. I've been tempted to see if I could test out a 2-ring piston in there.
@SawTroll and @Cantdog are more knowledgeable than I, but the Jonnys are basically Husqvarna's starting in the mid 80's. The true Jonsereds are the ones that still have the 's' on the end.....and the 2051....
@SawTroll and @Cantdog are more knowledgeable than I, but the Jonnys are basically Husqvarna's starting in the mid 80's. The true Jonsereds are the ones that still have the 's' on the end.....and the 2051....
Yeah, other than the 910, my J'red knowledge stops with the 's' saws. Never ran a 70e because it was too small for my purposes. Can't imagine the low end torque from that particular saw being remarkable against what I've used in the past.
Low-end torque saws need to have your dawgs or bumper always against the wood except in small branches.
Kevin
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Hey what are you guys doing in here. Anyone play with the newer jred stuff, or don't you all consider it "real" jred.
Started the post and saw the above comments, guess not lol
Never saw this thread before, but I'll be in and out of here now and then, I've heard you gotta keep an eye on Jred owners.
I'm Brett by the way
.
Also if any of you guys need anything from the guy in GR I may be able to help out I'm just 20 min away.
I don't know if he is the guy who sells a lot of saws on CL in that area or not, if it is he rebuilds most of them with AM parts.
Started the post and saw the above comments, guess not lol
Never saw this thread before, but I'll be in and out of here now and then, I've heard you gotta keep an eye on Jred owners
.I'm Brett by the way
.Also if any of you guys need anything from the guy in GR I may be able to help out I'm just 20 min away.
I don't know if he is the guy who sells a lot of saws on CL in that area or not, if it is he rebuilds most of them with AM parts.
SawTroll
Information Collector
The story actually is a very long and complicated one, with a "transition period" lasting from 1982 to about 2004. All Swedish made Jonsered models were made at the Husky factory from 1987, but that did not mean that they all basically were Husky saws - only a few were initially (630 and 670 by 1987, maybe the 625 as well, I don't remember exactly when that one came out). That wasn't the case before about 2003/2004, despite the first one that was came out in 1982 (the 630). The first 630s did have the "s" at the end of Jonsered, as did some models that were made at the Partner factory (from 1979, when production of the Jonsereds saws was moved from the Jonsereds factory to the Partner one).
This means that the 2051 likely was made at the Husky factory all the time - but theoretically the very first ones may have been made at the Partner factory. It definitely is a true Jonsered, and isn't based on any Husky model. The 2055, that replaced the 2051 in 1994, was one of the last true Jonsered models to go, in the early 2000s (the 2095 was the last).
Jacklefty
ArboristSite Operative
Speaking of year ranges. Is there any way to effectively date my 801 that I'm building?
Not by serials. Older J'reds don't have a system that we've ever figured out.
Remember that Electrolux Group AB actually bought J'red around '77 and moved to the Partner assembly line around the same time. BUT....they left the line alone a few yrs to fend for itself. On the big saws, the 910 was the last truly 100% J'red. On the 920 you see the Partner influence in the handle and then on the 930 you get Husky influence on the internals and Partner on the handles.
As far as pushing away younger users and modern saws here...that's ridiculous. Us older guys are just giving opinions, that's all. Plenty of discussion here in this thread about the newer saws.
Kevin
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