Yes I would have pm if we had trouble . Did I ask if you vac/pressure test?The off switch is my fault sir. It originally didn't have a switch and I thought that would be the best spot for it. My thinking for down as on was that when releasing the pull rope after starting the handle wouldn't snap down and kill the ignition.
When I first got the saw it was empty and everything was hard and brittle. I replaced the fuel line system, filter and tank breather gasket. I also got a carb kit for the carb as well as a fuel tank cap. It took me awhile to get it started.
Before I sent it off I ran it dry of fuel and drained all the bar oil. That my have been why it was hard to start.
After you got it running did it idle and run to your satisfaction?
Thanks
That would be a great joke.!I should have looked for spark after ten pulls.
If I think about it I will let my kid brother pull on it 15 times than tell him turn switch on lol
Haaa yeah, that's a good idea.I see why a guy on youtube had a snowblower handle on his
Well that was the first attempt at a chain brake.......not so good.....but when functioning correctly it would shut the ign down as well as push a brake shoe down onto the outer clutch drum when activated......it was never factory installed on a stock saw until the 521E....Prior, it was a dealer only installed option on all Jonsereds saws from a certain point on.....Niko can probably find the dates for that....early 70's until very early 80's I think. That pic is of the plastic carrier that housed the brake shoe......was present on these saws with or without the brake system....
Looks to me like that Wedge block would bend the drum if it kicks back hard but better than hitting someone in the headAs far as I know, that chain brake was first introduced on the model 51 in 1971772,, and soon became available on other models as well. View attachment 541791 View attachment 541792
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I've got Oregon bars that are stamped both 3/8" and .404.....never made any sense to me.
....
Kevin
Looks to me like that Wedge block would bend the drum if it kicks back hard but better than hitting someone in the head
New question 200---D196 it fits but no mater how you look it up it's 3/8 .050 web site tells me 70 dl
I have alot of this chain but no joy
I think it's 72 dl View attachment 541669.So I will pick one up tomorrow. Better weather I hope
It just means that the same bar body could be used with either 3/8" or .404 tips - you have to look at what it says on the tip.
28 Inch is on the 90 ... like to run 20 or 24 on this one I have found Oregon D024 mount 3/8 on ebay.
The guy I got the 80/90 from must have changed the bar studs The D009 husky mount fit perfect .
I will keep the 28 inch in mind that you have .... I have a BAD habit of collecting chainsaws.
I think a lot of 111's will show up on ebay if the one on it now sells for big $
that's what happened to the 5200 and 5400 Poulans .
Now if it's Green the sellers think it's gold plated so to me the better $ is on Jonsered
My first one put a big smile on my face . I think this 801 will too.
The same original bar stock, maybe....but you can't even push the DL of a .404 chain into the rail slot of a 3/8" bar. You can't just switch out the sprocket tips from a 3/8" bar to .404 and you're good to go. Ergo, it makes no sense to stamp 3/8" and .404 on the same bar.
Kevin
If the gauge of the bar and the involved chains is the same, you surely can - but the bar nose has to match the chain (if it is a sprocket one). With a hard nose or a roller nose the bars totally interchange between the pitches in question.
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