Jonsered Chainsaws

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New question 200---D196 it fits but no mater how you look it up it's 3/8 .050 web site tells me 70 dl
I have alot of this chain but no joy
I think it's 72 dl 20161206_180637.jpg.So I will pick one up tomorrow. Better weather I hope
 
Next question anyone ever have the off on switch up side down
up is off
Down is run
or are all of you in on the joke mess with the new guy lol
I pulled on this thing till it flooded
I need a decomp
It has compression I did get it running can't do anymore tonight
Ice my arm maybe
 
The off switch is my fault sir. It originally didn't have a switch and I thought that would be the best spot for it. My thinking for down as on was that when releasing the pull rope after starting the handle wouldn't snap down and kill the ignition.

When I first got the saw it was empty and everything was hard and brittle. I replaced the fuel line system, filter and tank breather gasket. I also got a carb kit for the carb as well as a fuel tank cap. It took me awhile to get it started.

Before I sent it off I ran it dry of fuel and drained all the bar oil. That my have been why it was hard to start.

After you got it running did it idle and run to your satisfaction?

Thanks
 
The off switch is my fault sir. It originally didn't have a switch and I thought that would be the best spot for it. My thinking for down as on was that when releasing the pull rope after starting the handle wouldn't snap down and kill the ignition.

When I first got the saw it was empty and everything was hard and brittle. I replaced the fuel line system, filter and tank breather gasket. I also got a carb kit for the carb as well as a fuel tank cap. It took me awhile to get it started.

Before I sent it off I ran it dry of fuel and drained all the bar oil. That my have been why it was hard to start.

After you got it running did it idle and run to your satisfaction?

Thanks
Yes I would have pm if we had trouble . Did I ask if you vac/pressure test?
 
I may glad everything is good. It's my first sale here and wanted it to be a good expierence is all.

No you did not, I did a vacuum test and couldn't do a pressure. My mighty vac pressure side doesn't work all the time and Itime wouldn't work. I went ahead and did the base gasket delete with the new caber rings, intake gaskets carb kit, fuel lines, filter and breather gasket.

I got it running and it idled so well I didn't pursue the pressure test further.

The last time I did a compression test it was around 240-245 if that helps
 
Awww...compression release is for sissies...lol! You should try pulling on a Husky 2100, 50hrs a week with no decomp. If you said it was hard to pull your saw on a loggin' show, they would have laughed you outa the woods.

Down is supposed to be OFF and up is ON. Those little switches are crazy rare now and not very well made. Usually, they quit working 'cause the little plastic bodied bastards melt or fall apart.

I've got Oregon bars that are stamped both 3/8" and .404.....never made any sense to me. Say, I just remembered something.....I have a 3/8" Oregon bar I used for one day on a show. I think it's 28" and large mount Husky. I should see if it might perhaps fit the 10mm J'red mount. If it does, it's available....I'll never use it again. I haven't seen it for yrs, but I think it's hanging on a nail somewhere.

Kevin
 
Well that was the first attempt at a chain brake.......not so good.....but when functioning correctly it would shut the ign down as well as push a brake shoe down onto the outer clutch drum when activated......it was never factory installed on a stock saw until the 521E....Prior, it was a dealer only installed option on all Jonsereds saws from a certain point on.....Niko can probably find the dates for that....early 70's until very early 80's I think. That pic is of the plastic carrier that housed the brake shoe......was present on these saws with or without the brake system....

As far as I know, that chain brake was first introduced on the model 50 in 1971/72,, and soon became available on other models as well.

Jonsereds 50 1972 chain brake.jpg 621 1972 chain brake.jpg

The design "died out" with the 1970s generation of Jonsereds models - the first models with a different brake design came in 1979 (the 910 and 510), and the last models with the old design were discontinued in 1982/83 or so.
 
28 Inch is on the 90 ... like to run 20 or 24 on this one I have found Oregon D024 mount 3/8 on ebay.
The guy I got the 80/90 from must have changed the bar studs The D009 husky mount fit perfect .
I will keep the 28 inch in mind that you have .... I have a BAD habit of collecting chainsaws.
I think a lot of 111's will show up on ebay if the one on it now sells for big $
that's what happened to the 5200 and 5400 Poulans .
Now if it's Green the sellers think it's gold plated so to me the better $ is on Jonsered
My first one put a big smile on my face . I think this 801 will too.
 
Looks to me like that Wedge block would bend the drum if it kicks back hard but better than hitting someone in the head

The block just presses against the rim of the drum, and I don't believe the pressure would be hard enough to bend anything. The trouble is that it doesn't stop the drum abruptly either, so the brake effect may be slower than you would want. It does help that the ignition is cut as well - but the effect of that isn't always immediate either, so the design was a bit "iffy".
 
New question 200---D196 it fits but no mater how you look it up it's 3/8 .050 web site tells me 70 dl
I have alot of this chain but no joy
I think it's 72 dl View attachment 541669.So I will pick one up tomorrow. Better weather I hope

A 20" D196 bar normally takes 70dl, not 72 - but the exact location and shape of the chain adjuster may play games with the dl count when a bar is used on a different mount than it is designed for.
 
It just means that the same bar body could be used with either 3/8" or .404 tips - you have to look at what it says on the tip.

The same original bar stock, maybe....but you can't even push the DL of a .404 chain into the rail slot of a 3/8" bar. You can't just switch out the sprocket tips from a 3/8" bar to .404 and you're good to go. Ergo, it makes no sense to stamp 3/8" and .404 on the same bar.

Kevin
 
28 Inch is on the 90 ... like to run 20 or 24 on this one I have found Oregon D024 mount 3/8 on ebay.
The guy I got the 80/90 from must have changed the bar studs The D009 husky mount fit perfect .
I will keep the 28 inch in mind that you have .... I have a BAD habit of collecting chainsaws.
I think a lot of 111's will show up on ebay if the one on it now sells for big $
that's what happened to the 5200 and 5400 Poulans .
Now if it's Green the sellers think it's gold plated so to me the better $ is on Jonsered
My first one put a big smile on my face . I think this 801 will too.

Just measure your bar studs with a micrometer...they should measure 10mm if they are original to the saw. There was a lot of variance in bar tolerances with the different manufacturers, so you're going to find some bars fit that probably shouldn't.....like some of the Husky large mount bars on the older J'reds. You just have to try them.

Yeah if there's any interest, I'll try to find that large mount Husky bar in 3/8" that's 28" long.....I have no use for it and it might fit the 10mm J'reds mount.

As the flagship model like the 111S rises in price to collectors, so will the other bigger cc J'reds saws. I've seen this in other hobbies as well. If collectors can't afford the top dawg, then they start moving down the model line to collect what they can afford. Next, the price of the 900 series will start to rise(already has) and the 80/90(already has).

Kevin
 
The same original bar stock, maybe....but you can't even push the DL of a .404 chain into the rail slot of a 3/8" bar. You can't just switch out the sprocket tips from a 3/8" bar to .404 and you're good to go. Ergo, it makes no sense to stamp 3/8" and .404 on the same bar.

Kevin

If the gauge of the bar and the involved chains is the same, you surely can - but the bar nose has to match the chain (if it is a sprocket one). With a hard nose or a roller nose the bars totally interchange between the pitches in question.
 
If the gauge of the bar and the involved chains is the same, you surely can - but the bar nose has to match the chain (if it is a sprocket one). With a hard nose or a roller nose the bars totally interchange between the pitches in question.

I tried it back in the day in the field. Had a large mount Husky bar that was 3/8". My pro chisel chain .063 drive links would not even begin to fit in that bar. The same with .058 chisel chain drive links. It was apples and oranges. I don't remember the gauge of the 3/8" bar, but the rail spacing was not compatible with .404 chain I had in the two different gauges.

Kevin
 

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