Jonsered Chainsaws

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Real1shepherd said:
I tried it back in the day in the field. Had a large mount Husky bar that was 3/8". My pro chisel chain .063 drive links would not even begin to fit in that bar. The same with .058 chisel chain drive links. It was apples and oranges. I don't remember the gauge of the 3/8" bar, but the rail spacing was not compatible with .404 chain I had in the two different gauges.

Kevin
Click to expand...

The bar must have been .050 then - simple as that. It is the most common gauge in 3/8" where you are.
 
QUOTE="SawTroll, post: 6075070, member: 5399"]The bar must have been .050 then - simple as that. It is the most common gauge in 3/8" where you are.[/QUOTE]

I still have the bar....the saw shop just set me up to try a 3/8" bar and full comp chain, which I hated....the reason the B&C was only used the one day.

It doesn't make sense to me that there would have been owners using .058 & .063 gauge bars with 3/8" chain and the DL to match the bigger gauge bars. If that was the case, than the saw shop owner instead should have sold me 3/8" full comp with .063 & .058 drive links to try on the .404 bars I already had...and just switched the tips out to 3/8".

I don't remember that being done by anyone...they just switched out the rim sprocket to 3/8"and went with 3/8" B&C.

Kevin
 
One thing is that there used to be .404 chain in .050 as well as in .058 and .063 - another is than .050 isn't common in 3/8" either, except in certain parts of the US.

Outside those parts of the US .050 only is common in 3/8" lo-pro (Picco) and .325 narrow kerf.

Regardless: If the tang of a .058 .404 driver will not enter in the slot of your 3/8" bar it is because the bar is .050, not because the chain is .404.
Alternatively, the slot may be messed up in some way (pinched) or just clogged up with something (like sap or stale canola oil).
 
I don't think there were many(if any) who ran .404 pro type chain in .050 gauge bars, at least not in the PNW. Even in .058 for pro use, .404 pro skip tooth chisel wasn't as common as .063 pro skip tooth chisel, which ruled. So what was hypothetically available and what was done as a matter of course are two different things.

I'm curious now what gauge that old 3/8" bar is I have and what full comp chain went with it. Whatever combo it was, it was common to those of us loggin' and wanting to use 3/8" B&C's in larger cc saws. And the guys runnin' the 900 series J'reds here in the PNW ran 36" B&C's in 3/8". Available scale was getting smaller by then and so were the bar requirements.

Kevin
 
Way, way rich. I think my 801 is a little less than 1 turn out on the high side. The saw will be slow at the settings you have there.

Start at 1 out or maybe 1-1/8 on the high side and tune it in wood and go from there. 1-3/4 on the low side is high as well. I just tune all mine on the low side to just rich enough to rev up without bogging
 
Saws are hard to tune when half def . lost half my hearing in right ear welding overhead and had hot slag land in ear.
Had a ring in my ear for 3 months . It felt rich no snap in trigger
 
I can see that hearing issue as being a difficult tuning problem.

If the chain is turning, back the idle adjust screw off some. Don't use the mix screw to adjust idle speed. My 801 has a weak clutch spring so I run the idle low but it works fine that way.
 
Agree with Tim...WAY too rich! That baby needs to rap more. Rule of thumb with a Tillly;start with 1 turn out on high, 1 1/2 on low. If you have no vacuum/pressure leaks and a best quality oil mix....then 3/4 turn out on high and 1 1/4 turn out on low. On low you want to adjust in right before it starts to raise the idle. On low, always check your trigger response...it should be immediate when you blip the throttle....no lag.

For idle, you don't want it fast because it's a wate of gas and there's always the chance the chain will start moving. You want to be able to flip the saw on either side without dying....it doesn't need to idle any higher than that.


Kevin
 
What do set the Idle screw at . I ran it in till it touches than 3/4 turn just to hold linkage off the bottom.
I started at 2 turns L & H Backed off low till chain starts to turn Than rich 1/8 .
Will try your set up With the Idle screw touching plus 1/4 or just touching ?
If no joy I will stop and do vacuum & pressure .
Still once it's close to me will post vid and you can be my ears
Thanks
 
I have to say I've never checked how many turns the idle speed screw is in or out. There's often a variety of levels depending on throttle linkage variance. I just set the idle speed screw up so it idles fast to start with and then back it off until it's about right and then set the low screw just rich enough so the saw goes to full throttle without bogging or hesitating. When I get there, I may adjust the speed screw if it needs it. I quite often start with the idle mix screw out 1-1/4 turns figuring I'll have to lean it out some. The newer homeowner saws are different and some of those need 2 to 2-1/2 turns out on the low speed mix screw. Your Jonsereds should never need that much.
Make the adjustments with the engine being warmed up.
 
Like Tim said...there is no iron clad adjustment with the idle screw. I've never paid attention other than if there was a problem, i.e., the adjustment is requiring that I turn it in more than normal....which probably idicates a dirty air filter, clogged fuel filter or other such problem. So you don't wast gas, you want the idle just high enough so that the saw doesn't stall out....and you can turn the saw on either side without stalling.

The nice thing about Tilly carbs at least in the bigger saws, is that they all adjust about the same with respect to low and high speed screw settings.....providing the saw has no seal or gasket leaks.

Kevin
 
SawTroll said:
One thing is that there used to be .404 chain in .050 as well as in .058 and .063 - another is than .050 isn't common in 3/8" either, except in certain parts of the US.

Outside those parts of the US .050 only is common in 3/8" lo-pro (Picco) and .325 narrow kerf.

Regardless: If the tang of a .058 .404 driver will not enter in the slot of your 3/8" bar it is because the bar is .050, not because the chain is .404.
Alternatively, the slot may be messed up in some way (pinched) or just clogged up with something (like sap or stale canola oil).
Click to expand...

You're beating a dead horse Niko and up in your head again with this theoretical crap you do. I checked with Madsens' and Bailey's. No one is selling or running .404 chisel chain in anything (these days) than .058. People using .404 chain are using .404 bars. People using 3/8" chain are using 3/8" bars, like it's always been. No one is selling or using .404 chisel chain with .050 DL to use on a 3/8" .050 bar and then changing the tip sprockets to .404. Doesn't make any sense and is absolutely to no advantage. Bailey's is selling 3/8" chain all the way up to .063 gauge, but not the bars to support it(Cannon sells them). But if you look through everything they're selling, it's 3/8" chain on 3/8" bars and .404 chain on .404 bars. Just let it go.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
You're beating a dead horse Niko and up in your head again with this theoretical crap you do. I checked with Madsens' and Bailey's. No one is selling or running .404 chisel chain in anything (these days) than .058. People using .404 chain are using .404 bars. People using 3/8" chain are using 3/8" bars, like it's always been. No one is selling or using .404 chisel chain with .050 DL to use on a 3/8" .050 bar and then changing the tip sprockets to .404. Doesn't make any sense and is absolutely to no advantage. Bailey's is selling 3/8" chain all the way up to .063 gauge, but not the bars to support it(Cannon sells them). But if you look through everything they're selling, it's 3/8" chain on 3/8" bars and .404 chain on .404 bars. Just let it go.

Kevin
Click to expand...

That may well be what the situation is now, in one particular area - but that's largely irrelevant regarding what may turn out to be on an older saw, or in old stock somewhere.

It hasn't always been that way, everywhere - and it is a fact that some bar bodies will accept both .404 and 3/8" noses. I don't know if any of them still are made - but that wasn't part of the question. In a general discussion you need to relate to the whole "picture", not just a fraction of it (in time and/or space).

What started this discussion was your question about bars that said both 3/8" and .404 on them, and the above is the only plausible cause.

History isn't theoretical crap.

Btw, I totally agree that .050 is a bad idea in .404 - but it really is in 3/8" as well. Despite this it is popular in large parts of the US, including the PNW (but virtually no-where else).
 
SawTroll said:
That may well be what the situation is now, in one particular area - but that's largely irrelevant regarding what may turn out to be on an older saw, or in old stock somewhere.

It hasn't always been that way, everywhere - and it is a fact that some bar bodies will accept both .404 and 3/8" noses. I don't know if any of them still are made - but that wasn't part of the question. In a general discussion you need to relate to the whole "picture", not just a fraction of it (in time and/or space).

What started this discussion was your question about bars that said both 3/8" and .404 on them, and the above is the only plausible cause.

History isn't theoretical crap.

Btw, I totally agree that .050 is a bad idea in .404 - but it really is in 3/8" as well. Despite this it is popular in large parts of the US, including the PNW (but virtually no-where else).
Click to expand...

The point I was making that back in the day as now, no one was mixing and matching .404 and 3/8" bars and components in the field. It doesn't really matter 'why' the bar manufacturers like Oregon were double stamping bars with .404 & 3/8"...I've just always been curious.

You got into a hypothetical argument that you could run .404 chisel chain on a 3/8" .050 bar with .050 DL's. But in actual fact no one did this and there would be no reason to on any practical front. If you have any evidence otherwise of people on a large scale mixing and matching .404 chisel chain with 3/8" bars to some advantage, than post it. Otherwise, just let this go.



Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
...

You got into a hypothetical argument that you could run .404 chisel chain on a 3/8" .050 bar with .050 DL's. But in actual fact no one did this and there would be no reason to on any practical front. If you have any evidence otherwise of people on a large scale mixing and matching .404 chisel chain with 3/8" bars to some advantage, than post it. Otherwise, just let this go.



Kevin
Click to expand...

I have never said that it was common to switch back and forth between 3/8" and .404, just that there are bar bodies that can be fitted with both sprocket nose options. It isn't that uncommon to change the pitch of a RSN bar by fitting a different pitch nose, even at the point of sale - so with a used bar you need to check what it says on the replaceable nose, the numbers on the bar body may be misleading (or inconclusive).
 

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