Jonsered Chainsaws

Wesspur
Rugged made
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kensie1988 said:
Gotcha, I might not be getting a good connection, I'm not sure where best place to place those probes are along the needle, up against the wire insulation or further out along the needle?
Click to expand...

That doesn't matter....wherever you can get a good solid connection...probably closer to to the wire is better for stability of a test point. If you can get a steady 0 ohm reading, your wires are good.

Before you took everything apart, did you pull off the kill switch wire and check if you had spark by grounding a good plug against the cylinder?

Kevin
 
I tested that before I scrubbed the contacts real good, I took it apart because after scrubbing the contacts I still didn't get a spark but as embarrassing as it is to say, so everyone that is trying to help has all the information, after I scrubbed the contacts and tried it for spark I forgot to turn on the killswitch :confused:
 
Kensie1988 said:
I tested that before I scrubbed the contacts real good, I took it apart because after scrubbing the contacts I still didn't get a spark but as embarrassing as it is to say, so everyone that is trying to help has all the information, after I scrubbed the contacts and tried it for spark I forgot to turn on the killswitch :confused:
Click to expand...

OK, well if you're getting nowhere stable with your ohms continuity test....address the wire insulation breaks with whatever your preferred poison of choice is. Robin here likes the marine grade liquid insulation. The liquid insulation I buy like @Home Depot is not that sturdy. I prefer to use black auto grade silicone and then heat shrink over that. Put everything back together making sure the wire from the kill switch is disconnected from the switch and that it doesn't ground anywhere from rubbing & age. Try to get spark by grounding a known good plug against the cylinder wall fins.


This is easier than me trying to explain it without pics(love the accent!):


Kevin
 
youtube heat shrink
I use a heat gun but I have watched it done with butane torch silicone first and heat shrink both at the same time do not over heat it will become brittle
 
Kensie1988 said:
So what would be the best way to patch this back up?
Click to expand...

Looking at that mess....I would skim coat the worst of it down near the module with auto silicone, let dry. Then go up the wires and dab with silicone and while tacky, heat shrink the entire wire length all the way down tight to the module. I'd also try to slip off that sheathing over the wire on the left in your pic to work on the wire. I think it's just for abrasion resistance. You should be able to slip it back on when you're done with the wire. If not, you can find something similar. I get my heat shrink from an electrical wholesaler. It's a lot better quality than that crap sold at the box stores and Radio Shack.

Another choice would be the stuff I used in the well pump business for connections down in the well. It has waterproof goop built into the heat shrink and as you heat it with a heat gun, the stuff oozes out and makes a waterproof seal. That's overkill in this situation, but you could delete the silicone that way. Again, it's sold at the electrical wholesaler. That may make the wire too stiff though...maybe stick with the other plan above.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
I think that same scenario/story could be said about most of the older two thin ring piston experiments. I can especially relate to the Husky 2100 thin ring, which is now heralded as a 'Holy Grail' saw. Maybe if we had had a modern syn like Ultra, the saws would have held up better....or maybe it was just not a design to evoke longevity in a pro commercial setting. In any event, I wouldn't have one and they sure don't deserve their premium status today.

I use Ultra @40:1, but glad you said you use it fine @50:1. I'm not having any carbon/coke issues...maybe I'll move up to 50:1. In my loggin' career, we almost to the last man used Bailey's Power Punch. It was/is a quasi-synthetic oil mix.....probably the first one out there. The big pro saws I've broken down that used that @40:1, look damn nice internally. But I think Ultra is the way to go now for old & new...not a Stihl fan either, but nobody makes a better syn mix.

Kevin
Click to expand...
Interesting conversation about thin rings. I've never seen thin rings in Husky or Jonny, though I used to run both brands. A lot. On the other hand, the two saws I've run more than any other individual saws are/ were both thin-ring Pioneers. No ring related problems, other than they don't last forever. I just rebuilt (again) one I've used for 35 years, and it's going strong.

Glad to see you guys like the Ultra, since that's what I'm using these days at 40:1. Glad I'm doing something right.

Merry Christmas!
 

Similar threads

J
Cleaning my dads estate and have 5 chainsaws here
Replies
4
Views
712
jeffpack1957
J
J
Cleaning out My Dads Estate and found...
Replies
1
Views
668
Chainsaw Collectors
Chainsaw Collectors
Chainsaw Collectors
Want to Buy Homie SuperXL AO Bar
Replies
0
Views
155
Chainsaw Collectors
Chainsaw Collectors
K
Jonsereds Bar
Replies
12
Views
2K
K. Phillips
K
Chainsaw Collectors
Want to Trade Pile o’ saws, updated list
Replies
8
Views
554
Chainsaw Collectors
Chainsaw Collectors

Latest posts

Back
Top