Jonsered Chainsaws

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Sold for $960 -- sounds like a lot, but I haven't seen any for sale, so I don't know how it compares to others that have sold. Anyone know?

Scott

Yep Kevin was about right with his guess.....slightly over a grand with shipping.......pretty darn good for a PHO sale!!!

They have been steadily increasing in price....a junker goes for $3-400 and if in good, low hour condition, it's basically a sellers market.
 
2054 lost its bottom rear antivibe spring thingy.
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Can one of you do me some good.

Saw belongs to my barber.

Bump!
 
I told y'all it would sell close to a grand. If you count the shipping (I would), it went over. It IS a whoring amount of money, but it's a 'Holy Grail' saw to many.

To answer your question Scott, the prices of the 111S in good condition have been steadily climbing for over two yrs. Not uncommon to see one go on eBay with issues for $700. This was a really nice one and the reason I thought it would seek a grand.

Hell, I just made a deal on a car that has 173,000 fewer miles than mine for the same money. I guess it's relative, but I'd rather have the car...lol!

Obviously, some serious snipe bidding going on the last 30 secs or so.

Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. I've got all the stuff to pressure vac test which I will do. While there is something going on with the carb I don't suspect an air leak. It actually tunes well, just in the wrong spot. I've had many saws with air leaks, sometimes they will tune, but they all tuned past 1 turn out and most still wanted to over rec.

Been my experience if the saw is tuned out short/weird, there is probably some kinda leak going on or a bad fuel hose/filter...even vent issues. Could very well be a carb issue though, as you say. Search a little harder and get a true Tilly kit instead of some generic kit.....they're out there.

Curious to know your outcome on this one!

Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. I've got all the stuff to pressure vac test which I will do. While there is something going on with the carb I don't suspect an air leak. It actually tunes well, just in the wrong spot. I've had many saws with air leaks, sometimes they will tune, but they all tuned past 1 turn out and most still wanted to over rec.

The HS carbs had a tendency to wear out the throttle shaft in the carb. You might check that. They are impossible to tune because of the excessive air leak at different throttle positions. The carb bodies seem to be OK and a new throttle shaft will fix the issue in my experience.
 
The HS carbs had a tendency to wear out the throttle shaft in the carb. You might check that. They are impossible to tune because of the excessive air leak at different throttle positions. The carb bodies seem to be OK and a new throttle shaft will fix the issue in my experience.

Good point Tim, in the search for a solution. I always check side-to-side play on these HS carbs and if I'm buying used cheap off eBay...I always ask the seller to check. I think I have at least three HS carbs for the 2100 all rebuilt and ready to go. I used to get two yrs max out of those carbs until they had too much play. In expensive carbs like Holley, they used replaceable Teflon bushings. Nice to know that the pot metal body is not always worn out....I never tried to put an unworn shaft back in. Cost of everything related to the 2100, you can't just toss stuff in the trash anymore...lol.

Tim & I talked about the spring that closes the butterfly on the big HS....it's ferocious for its application....possibly one reason those shafts wear out.


Kevin
 
This 80/90 was hopped up by @Chainsaw Jim . It's running a 32" GB with standard Stihl 3/8 chain and 40:1, fattened up just a little on the high. Proper ripping chain would likely make this bad boy much better at milling, as this cut was just for GTG fun. I think this size wood would be about the max for this saw.

I have 42" bars for the 111S', so that will be kinda neat.
 
This 80/90 was hopped up by @Chainsaw Jim . It's running a 32" GB with standard Stihl 3/8 chain and 40:1, fattened up just a little on the high. Proper ripping chain would likely make this bad boy much better at milling, as this cut was just for GTG fun. I think this size wood would be about the max for this saw.

I have 42" bars for the 111S', so that will be kinda neat.

I've not done any milling per day, just cutting scale logs professionally. I would think with the saw on its side for an extended mill cut, you'd fatten the H side to preserve your engine life. 40:1 with something like Stihl Ultra and never look back.

Please post some pics of that hawg 111s working other than a GTG.

Kevin
 
I used to run 40:1 Stuhl Ultra in all my stuff. Noticed a good bit of carbon inside the jug of this saw when I first disassembled it. @Chainsaw Jim noticed the same build-ups as he started porting some of my other stuff and recommended moving to an FD rated oil. So I'm trying Husqy XP right now. And yeah, I fatten up the H just a touch.

I have a few more logs slated for milling. There will be pics when I get to them. :D
 
I used to run 40:1 Stuhl Ultra in all my stuff. Noticed a good bit of carbon inside the jug of this saw when I first disassembled it. @Chainsaw Jim noticed the same build-ups as he started porting some of my other stuff and recommended moving to an FD rated oil. So I'm trying Husqy XP right now. And yeah, I fatten up the H just a touch.

I have a few more logs slated for milling. There will be pics when I get to them. :D

You might want to run Ultra at more like 50:1 on non milling motors....Ultra was designed as an very high detergent full synth oil to be used in their 4 stroke motors as they were having trouble with carbon build up on the valve stems. Perhaps more isn't better in this case. I run ultra at 50:1 in everything....ported saws...old saws... everything and haven't had any problems with any carbon buildup. Since we're talking carbon issues...here's a ditty that I learned from the techs at BCM Ducati in Laconia NH.....in the off season they run adult self help workshops for Ducati owners......the techs will always laugh when tearing down a street Duc....."Another HI test guy"......according the one of the foremost Ducati shops in 'Merica.....if you are running pump gas...run regular......hmmmm......kinda flies in the face of common perception I thought. Their explanation was this.....hi test gas has a multitude of additives that leave residue when burnt.....these adhere to the valve stems and cause rapid wear on these desmodronic valve systems......I have run regular gas in everything that will run on it since and noticed less carbon issues in most every motor I run, large and small. Always ran premium in all my bikes. Not any more.....If I think I need more octane I use VP or similar.....like leaded AV gas.....but my point is most folks don't think of fuel adding to carbon issues but it certainly is part of the equation.....worth thinking about anyway.
 
Interesting....

Is Pump 87 ethanol free in ME? I'm running high-test clear gas here so as to get away from the gasohol. I'm let to believe that the clear doesn't have the detergents in it like the regular pump high-test, but I could be wrong.
 
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