Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Not likely, though perhaps, if the original buyer added it to the the saw pkg. at additional cost. Most all new 49SPs came through with Sandvick laminated bars in 0.325 with non replaceable roller noses. Remember these were the ultimate price point saw of the series. Many parts were pared down/economized to keep them inexpensive relative to the 52/52E/521E and the Tilton Super Bar would have been priced much higher. That bar was actually made by Sugi Hara...judging from that replaceable tip...

Huh.....I figure a saw from MN, Tilton country, would have a Tilton bar. I didn't figure in the 'economizing' sales aspect of the 49sp.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Oh Geeze.......it was sometimes totally unreal the lengths they went to save money on the 49SP. Here is a great example.....notice the two covers......the NOS one on the right is a 52 cover....the used one on the left is a stock 49 cover. Notice the little rubber bumper near the end of the 52 cover? See it missing on the used one......this didn't fall out...it's the way it came from the factory. Another thing is the pro saws all had chains to hold the oil and gas caps on....nope not on the 49......same caps just no chains. The 52 cover was the replacement if you needed one for your 49, so they could charge you for the bumper anyway....but they didn't have to buy the first one!!!

 

[truly]

I had a really nice day with my Jreds today. Got to do just a little cutting with my #1 49SP for the first time. Had a few slabs in garage that are part of a bench project. Only 10 minutes of cutting but I know I am going to love this saw in the timber.
Then got working on #2 49SP. Sometimes you wonder if these old machines have a soul and just need some loving. I did a thorough cleaning and tightened the recoil up. Started on the 2nd pull after I realized I had to turn the IGN switch on. Not a runner yet though. She bogged and died when I tried rev up. My thoughts on the cure- first reset low and high. If that fails get a carb kit rebuild. If that fails look into seals. Does that seem like the right order of things?

Regarding the Tilton bar- I need to redress it. Bad groove in it. My #1 saw came with a Sandvik bar. It is off and hanging on a nail. Should I save that in case a serious collector wants it some day? Does someone here that has been so helpful to me want it for a saw they are trying to keep original? I am not after original and collector value. Just want a couple great runners.
Thanks again to everyone for help and insight.

 

[bulletpruf]

I had a really nice day with my Jreds today. Got to do just a little cutting with my #1 49SP for the first time. Had a few slabs in garage that are part of a bench project. Only 10 minutes of cutting but I know I am going to love this saw in the timber.
Then got working on #2 49SP. Sometimes you wonder if these old machines have a soul and just need some loving. I did a thorough cleaning and tightened the recoil up. Started on the 2nd pull after I realized I had to turn the IGN switch on. Not a runner yet though. She bogged and died when I tried rev up. My thoughts on the cure- first reset low and high. If that fails get a carb kit rebuild. If that fails look into seals. Does that seem like the right order of things?

Regarding the Tilton bar- I need to redress it. Bad groove in it. My #1 saw came with a Sandvik bar. It is off and hanging on a nail. Should I save that in case a serious collector wants it some day? Does someone here that has been so helpful to me want it for a saw they are trying to keep original? I am not after original and collector value. Just want a couple great runners.
Thanks again to everyone for help and insight.

I'd go with new fuel lines before I'd mess with crank seals.

 

[truly]

Ahh- yes, good idea. Fuel lines. thanks.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ahh- yes, good idea. Fuel lines. thanks.

Fuel/vent lines and a fuel filter. You've got age working against you and unknown maintenance. The problem with not putting in new crank seals is that you have to immediately recognize when the saw starts to run lean and stop. That's seems to be a problem with a lot of collectors.....they just keep cutting and trash the top end.

It's not a hard job and should be mandatory on saws older than 20yrs if you're not sure when, if ever, new seals were put in. I'd also kit the carb after a good cleaning.

On a Tilly start with 1 1/2 turn out on LOW and 1 1/4 turns out on HIGH.

As far as keeping original parts, always a good idea if you have space. People are paying more for original saws than they are for cobbled up runners, no matter how they run. New parts are NLA and therefore problematic. 49sp's aren't greatly desirable yet as far as $$$, but there may come a day......especially when somebody is trying to collect all the iconic Jonsereds in the line before the Electrolux Group AB takeover.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Really???
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-8...857450?hash=item422c680a6a:g:~VEAAOSw~jlgRwuD

 

[mogulmasher]

Wow, they really banking on someone not knowing what they are looking at?!

 

[truly]

Quote from Feb 12-
Bulletpruf,
Truly - welcome to the Jonsereds thread. Unfortunately, you have to read the ENTIRE thread before you're allowed to post. Skimming is not allowed. See you in a few months! Just kidding, of course. Sounds like your friend and his FIL could use a bit of basic instruction!


Three days short of a month to wade thru 517 pages. Great stuff. Now I want a 70!

 

[jonsereds 621]

Quite some time ago somebody here was wondering if there were any Jonsereds folks in the uk. Yesterday I managed to get around to taking a photo of my little gang. All except the two 49sp's to the left of case splitter are ready for work. Most came from trash skips or agricultural scrap piles, a few Ebay. The 80 was simply left at my door and has just completed cutting a 36" dia ash trunk into 18" lengths for splitter, massive compression, quite a weapon ! One of the 621's has only cut for perhaps an hour or two and a couple of the 49sp's are very little used, all the rest have various degrees of battle damage. I have received a huge amount of tips and accurate information from those on this site most particularly from the Maine area . What a grand source of drive and assistance
you all offer, and what a sense of satisfaction gained from using a tool that would almost certainly never have run again had this information not been available...... Thanks !

 

[Real1shepherd]

Quite some time ago somebody here was wondering if there were any Jonsereds folks in the uk. Yesterday I managed to get around to taking a photo of my little gang. All except the two 49sp's to the left of case splitter are ready for work. Most came from trash skips or agricultural scrap piles, a few Ebay. The 80 was simply left at my door and has just completed cutting a 36" dia ash trunk into 18" lengths for splitter, massive compression, quite a weapon ! One of the 621's has only cut for perhaps an hour or two and a couple of the 49sp's are very little used, all the rest have various degrees of battle damage. I have received a huge amount of tips and accurate information from those on this site most particularly from the Maine area . What a grand source of drive and assistance
you all offer, and what a sense of satisfaction gained from using a tool that would almost certainly never have run again had this information not been available...... Thanks !View attachment 893739

OK well, I posted some queries about this post and I see that they have disappeared. I asked about J'reds being represented in the UK and in general, how likely a guy is to own a chainsaw....or is that something usually hired out there?

I went on to to say that chainsaw ownership here is almost like owning firearms, most people have one. Albeit, many are farm store/box store POS.

Nice herd!

Kevin

 

[bulletpruf]

Really???
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-8...857450?hash=item422c680a6a:g:~VEAAOSw~jlgRwuD

Pretty sure this guy bought a few vintage saws from me - an XH and an XF, I think. I'm guessing this is a cut and paste error.

EDIT: looks like he has fixed some of the ad, but not all of it.

 

[ErnieG]

Could someone help me out with the correct size fuel line for a 910e and what's the secret to keep it from leaking between the line and case ?
Thanks very much!
Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

I measured the OD of fuel lines to two 910e's. The first looks to be OE, with OE filter etc and it measure 6.22mm. The other saw looks to have aftermarket line and definitely an aftermarket, cheap fuel filter. Ir measures 5.27mm and is not a good fit.....very loose.

Then I have some new fuel line bought from the local Honda outdoor place and it measures 6.71mm.

My answer is to work the tightest line you can possibly pull through, with a little dish soap and a fuel line puller(has like a keeper hook, some cable and a tee handle).

Make sure you record the length of the fuel line/filter in the tank and duplicate

Kevin

 

[sled_22]

Has anyone put an aftermarket foam filter onto a 9025 turbo and have some pictures of how they went about adding an extension tube? I just picked up the saw and it's missing the air filter cover so I thought about putting an after market filter on so I could get this saw back into service bucking logs. Thanks,

 

[taplinhill]

Quote from Feb 12-
Bulletpruf,
Truly - welcome to the Jonsereds thread. Unfortunately, you have to read the ENTIRE thread before you're allowed to post. Skimming is not allowed. See you in a few months! Just kidding, of course. Sounds like your friend and his FIL could use a bit of basic instruction!


Three days short of a month to wade thru 517 pages. Great stuff. Now I want a 70!

Wow, I'm glad I've been here since day one.

 

[ErnieG]

I measured the OD of fuel lines to two 910e's. The first looks to be OE, with OE filter etc and it measure 6.22mm. The other saw looks to have aftermarket line and definitely an aftermarket, cheap fuel filter. Ir measures 5.27mm and is not a good fit.....very loose.

Then I have some new fuel line bought from the local Honda outdoor place and it measures 6.71mm.

My answer is to work the tightest line you can possibly pull through, with a little dish soap and a fuel line puller(has like a keeper hook, some cable and a tee handle).

Make sure you record the length of the fuel line/filter in the tank and duplicate

Kevin

I just wanted to share with others maybe needing new fuel line ..I found a good replacement for my 910e .
I used Oregon 07-151.. 1/8 ID x 1/4 OD .
Wasn't easy getting it through the case ..I used a small wire and pulled it as I fished it through .
Thanks very much for the help !
Ernie

 

[ErnieG]

While I'm on my Jonsereds 910e subject ...I'd like a little more advice.
I recently did a top end rebuild piston and rings .. cylinder was salvageable..carb kit and all new lines .
I've read a few threads where a seal kit would be recommend after such a build ..not knowing the last time if ever they have been replaced .
Saw does run great but im afraid if there is an air leak the saw would run to lean and I'd be in the same boat i started with .
Being my first semi rebuild could someone please recommend what I should do next ?
I don't want my all my work to this point to go up in smoke!
Thanks !
Ernie

 

[Cantdog]

While I'm on my Jonsereds 910e subject ...I'd like a little more advice.
I recently did a top end rebuild piston and rings .. cylinder was salvageable..carb kit and all new lines .
I've read a few threads where a seal kit would be recommend after such a build ..not knowing the last time if ever they have been replaced .
Saw does run great but im afraid if there is an air leak the saw would run to lean and I'd be in the same boat i started with .
Being my first semi rebuild could someone please recommend what I should do next ?
I don't want my all my work to this point to go up in smoke!
Thanks !
Ernie

Any time I go though a saw rebuilding the top end I always replace the seals......unless I'm very sure they have recently been replaced and are tight. Cheap insurance. Especially if you are repairing the saw from an already lean condition. I just put a piston in a real nice 621 for a guy......told him I'd replace the seals too but they both passed a pressure/vac test so I was concerned until I poured the old gas out and saw there was not a drop of oil in the fuel. But the end game is if you don't know why the saw went lean and toasted the top end you should always just replace the seals.

 

[ErnieG]

Any time I go though a saw rebuilding the top end I always replace the seals......unless I'm very sure they have recently been replaced and are tight. Cheap insurance. Especially if you are repairing the saw from an already lean condition. I just put a piston in a real nice 621 for a guy......told him I'd replace the seals too but they both passed a pressure/vac test so I was concerned until I poured the old gas out and saw there was not a drop of oil in the fuel. But the end game is if you don't know why the saw went lean and toasted the top end you should always just replace the seals.

Any time I go though a saw rebuilding the top end I always replace the seals......unless I'm very sure they have recently been replaced and are tight. Cheap insurance. Especially if you are repairing the saw from an already lean condition. I just put a piston in a real nice 621 for a guy......told him I'd replace the seals too but they both passed a pressure/vac test so I was concerned until I poured the old gas out and saw there was not a drop of oil in the fuel. But the end game is if you don't know why the saw went lean and toasted the top end you should always just replace the seals.

Thanks very much for the quick response!
Do you have a seal number or a supplier I could get the seals through?
I have a few seal and bearing places not far from me I could possibly buy them from if I had a number or measurements. Is there any special tools or tricks I should know before I get into changing them ...or maybe a good write up ..pics are always nice
Thanks again !
Ernie