Thanks very much for the reply and advice !
Could you recommend where to get a piston and rings and what brand is preferred ?
I did find some on eBay...just curious if there's another provider...maybe a forum member or such .
Thanks!
Ernie
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Could you recommend where to get a piston and rings and what brand is preferred ?
I did find some on eBay...just curious if there's another provider...maybe a forum member or such .
Thanks!
Ernie
"Mastermind' or Randy.....is a saw builder of good renown. In one of his YouTube video's he shows how to polish a cylinder. I only use the mandrel/Wigglesworth method he mentions. I don't use anything more aggressive than a brown Scotchbrite pad on the drill mandrel. Might take me longer, but I don't run the risk of any damage to the cylinder. Ball hones are somethimes used and sold by folks like Bailey's. The chrome plating and Nikasil plating(especially) are so thin that you have to be really careful with a hone. And then there's the chance that the balls could deform you transfer porting edges.
The drill mandrel and Scotchbrite will do wonders unless the cylinder is really gouged....in which case just pitch it. Yes, the finger nail test is good one. A polished cylinder and a new set of Cabers will usually do wonders after a few tankfuls.
Kevin
Members argue this a lot. The people who habitually step over dollars to pick up pennies will argue till the cows come home that $35 piston/cylinder sets are as good as OE. Well, that depends on your definition of 'good". Will the saw start & run, yes.....will the saw cut a cord of wood OK, probably.....will the saw run day in and day out and never give you a hiccup, probably not. Nothing beats OE...even if you have to find a piston used but undamaged. Meteor used to be great but they merged with Hyway.......so........
IMHO, if you can't get an old Meteor piston, hold out for an undamaged, used OE piston. What is your goal? Are you just going to cut a cord of wood a yr and then the saw sits the rest of the time or are you going to really work with it in the woods? The 910e is a full-house pro saw. But since parts have been NLA for over a decade, most of them wind up being shelf queens somewhere just looking bad-+++. If it's just gonna be a shelf queen, then it doesn't really matter what piston you put in there.....just don't try to sell it to me....lol!
Your piston choices therefore, will be directly tied to what you plan to do with the saw.
Kevin
Its going to be more a weekend warrior not an everyday user by any means . I'm not in the timber business but I do cut firewood ..maybe 2-3 cord a year but it's not going to be this saws main job ..I have newer ones for that .
Maybe I will post a WTB for an OE piston and see what happens .
Thanks again!
Ernie
QFT! (Quoted for Troof!)
Got a mystery here. I'm usually hunting for 111 mufflers, but right now I have 3. Two are the side exit. One is the front exit - louvered, with a screen behind it.
Question is whether the front exit is a West Coast muffler or was it maybe a later muffler? On a related note, would you usually get a different muffler, spike, and full wrap on saws sold on the Left Coast?
Disregard the hacked muffler in the middle. Definitely not a factory exit.
Question is whether the front exit is a West Coast muffler or was it maybe a later muffler? On a related note, would you usually get a different muffler, spike, and full wrap on saws sold on the Left Coast?
Disregard the hacked muffler in the middle. Definitely not a factory exit.
The bottom louver muffler has always been considered a 'west coast' muffler and I suspect most were put on by Tilton and Scotsco for the PNW. But my old 80 came that way and was purchased in CO....along with a full wrap. These were things you could get if you wanted them.
I don't know about the dawg question....mine on the 80 was the puny factory. I don't know if Tilton and Scotsco addressed that or it was an aftermarket thing.
It just seems like the bottom louver mufflers and full wraps are always from the west coast, but it's not necessarily true is what I'm sayin'.
Kevin
I don't know about the dawg question....mine on the 80 was the puny factory. I don't know if Tilton and Scotsco addressed that or it was an aftermarket thing.
It just seems like the bottom louver mufflers and full wraps are always from the west coast, but it's not necessarily true is what I'm sayin'.
Kevin
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Here's a couple old 80's......the first one is from the PNW and does have that lower louvered muffler.......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-8...340731?hash=item3ff52d84fb:g:zGgAAOSwwlVgNzmF
This one is from the mid west and has the regular muffler.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnsered-...708502?hash=item2f54f38596:g:0ccAAOSwf-5gNvOR
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-8...340731?hash=item3ff52d84fb:g:zGgAAOSwwlVgNzmF
This one is from the mid west and has the regular muffler.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnsered-...708502?hash=item2f54f38596:g:0ccAAOSwf-5gNvOR
Thanks for the input. FYI - the louvers on the 110/111 mufflers are on top. Probably not enough room to put a louvered exit on the bottom.
And this just in - pictures of a muffler that's supposed to be a West Coast Muffler from a saw that I believe is out of Minnesota. This looks homemade to me. Similar to the hacked muffler in the pictures above, but the exit is in the opposite corner.
What's odd to me is that the factory exit from the front or side doesn't appear to have been patched, so this muffler appears to have been manufactured in this configuration. Anyone seen one of these before?
What's odd to me is that the factory exit from the front or side doesn't appear to have been patched, so this muffler appears to have been manufactured in this configuration. Anyone seen one of these before?
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Yep that's not a mod. It is the earliest form of spark arresting mufflers from Jonsereds. It had a cone shaped screen with a large round nut attached that threaded into the brass hole/fitting brazed into the muffler. The nut was round and had two lots in it to fit a special spanner to R&R it.
Thanks, Robin. That muffler is on the way to San Antonio. If anyone has any pictures of that setup or more details, please let me know.
Does it use a 2100 muffler screen piece? If so, I've got a spare one I'd gladly send @bulletpruf
I dunno. What's a 2100 screen piece look like? thanks
It appears I gave mine to a buddy, but if you need it I'll get it back. Anyways, here's what one looks like. I don't know if it'd take a 480 muffler screen or a 2100 muffler screen, but I found two 480 screens on ebay based off of their p/n, 501568101.
I’ll see about picking one up once my muffler gets here. Thanks!
Doing a bit of research today and found a bit of info on Scotsco. If you go to page 353 of the Forest Service Spark Arrestor Guide, you can find some details on Scotsco produced muffler arrestors. Also shows saws with optional spikes and full wraps. See if this link works - https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=kNKsQYHyb2UC&hl=en&pg=GBS.PA353
Attached a picture of the founder of Scotsco with a few old saws - looks like an XA, XB, or XD and a 50. Also pictured is a Jonsereds log splitter.
Looks like Scotsco is still in business. Did Tilton shut down permanently?
Attached a picture of the founder of Scotsco with a few old saws - looks like an XA, XB, or XD and a 50. Also pictured is a Jonsereds log splitter.
Looks like Scotsco is still in business. Did Tilton shut down permanently?
Yeah, exactly like Husky did early on.....still have the tool.
Decent looking dawgs....again, probably a US subcontractor made them like the full-wraps.
Kevin
If the cops ever give my computers back.....there's a guy wearing glasses in a trade paper article that brought Jonsereds to Scotsco.
I think Tilton is still in business but divested of Jonsered yrs and yrs ago. Maybe sold out to someone else and they kept the name.....don't know the story there. Somebody here from MN might know.
Kevin
