Jonsered Chainsaws

[numnutz6383]

I found these. Are these the right ones for the earlier S/N years, such as mine?

 

[Real1shepherd]

If main bearings are the same then the OD and ID of the seals would be the same....correct? Might be something different about the crank, but if main bearings are the same, seals wouldn't change.......unless I'm not following this correctly.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

Studied this a bit further....comparing from one IPL to the other some parts are the same number...some are not and it looks like this is the time when they changed ign/coil types......flywheel is different, P&C is different and crank also carries a different #......case halves remain the same......I told ya this was tricky!!!!!

So the P+C I got coming could possibly be the wrong one?

Also, any way you can send the earlier IPL?

 

[Cantdog]

From you previous post it would seem that the numbering difference is simply just superceeding numbers.....however that said the post by LarryRFL quoted the early part # number as 504 142 601 when it is actually is 504 146 201......I am assuming he just copied it wrong. (not helpful LOL!) If this is the case I (think) the seals you have coming (from LarryRFL's explanation) are correct for your saw. The seals from Lil' Red Barn (# 504 146 200)are for the 49SP clear up through the 111S.
Again I'm guessing here but perhaps the part # for the P&C being different is another superceeded number or perhaps reflects the difference between a regular cyl and one set up for the Nordfella system. The 451 and 70E were the enly two Jonsereds saws I know of that could come set up for that. (steel plug directly opposite the spark plug hole) Again...guessing here.... but I believe the P&C will fit fine.

From studying these IPLs it becoms very hard to tell what is simply superceeded numbering system or actual change. In the case of the flywheel and ign number differences it is obvious that the parts are totally different items......the crank.....no way tell from the pics in the IPL.

 

[Cantdog]

If main bearings are the same then the OD and ID of the seals would be the same....correct? Might be something different about the crank, but if main bearings are the same, seals wouldn't change.......unless I'm not following this correctly.

Kevin

Yes...unless where the seal rides is a smaller diameter than the ID of the bearings as some saws do.

 

[numnutz6383]

From you previous post it would seem that the numbering difference is simply just superceeding numbers.....however that said the post by LarryRFL quoted the early part # number as 504 142 601 when it is actually is 504 146 201......I am assuming he just copied it wrong. (not helpful LOL!) If this is the case I (think) the seals you have coming (from LarryRFL's explanation) are correct for your saw. The seals from Lil' Red Barn (# 504 146 200)are for the 49SP clear up through the 111S.
Again I'm guessing here but perhaps the part # for the P&C being different is another superceeded number or perhaps reflects the difference between a regular cyl and one set up for the Nordfella system. The 451 and 70E were the enly two Jonsereds saws I know of that could come set up for that. (steel plug directly opposite the spark plug hole) Again...guessing here.... but I believe the P&C will fit fine.

From studying these IPLs it becoms very hard to tell what is simply superceeded numbering system or actual change. In the case of the flywheel and ign number differences it is obvious that the parts are totally different items......the crank.....no way tell from the pics in the IPL.

This is getting quite complicated. So much for a few week long project . Anyhow here is a picture of the P+C I have coming from the UK, followed by what I have.

 

[numnutz6383]

As for a seal puller, will one of these work well? I know there are MacGyver methods, but I like having a purpose made tool.

 

[Cantdog]

What bolts to your original cyl in the cventer of the pic?

 

[numnutz6383]

That's the bottom of the two bolts where the ignition module attaches. Here it is assembled.

 

[Cantdog]

Ah....that's what I thought......assuming the A1W2 casting is earlier than the A1W4 casting that makes sense. The later cyl would have also had the later ign where the coil is not mounted to the cyl as yours is but is actually mounted to the spark plug. There is no high tension lead to the plug as the coil plugs right into the sparkplug. So you may have to tap the holes out to mount your coil. The top covers also carry a different part number but I suspect the earlier cover is larger to allow for the coil mounted to the cyl. In you situation, your top cover should work fine. Again guessing!!!

 

[Cantdog]

As for a seal puller, will one of these work well? I know there are MacGyver methods, but I like having a purpose made tool.

View attachment 1033554

Not sure....... you may find that is to large to fit in where the seals are. I use a thin screw driver to reach in and get under the metal lip of the seal to pop it out. A tip on seal removal.... is to take a punch and gently tap the seal down (in) on the opposite side of the crank from where you plan to pull the seal out. However you do it, be very careful not to scratch the case bore with the tool......the crank is very hard so scratching that is not really an issue

 

[Cantdog]

This is getting quite complicated. So much for a few week long project . Anyhow here is a picture of the P+C I have coming from the UK, followed by what I have.
View attachment 1033551

View attachment 1033552

Well as I've said.....you picked about the most challenging Jonsered there is for your project!!!

But patience is key and I'm sure you'll persevere!!! You seem to be willing to expend the cash to make it so and done correctly.

 

[numnutz6383]

Not sure....... you may find that is to large to fit in where the seals are. I use a thin screw driver to reach in and get under the metal lip of the seal to pop it out. A tip on seal removal.... is to take a punch and gently tap the seal down (in) on the opposite side of the crank from where you plan to pull the seal out. However you do it, be very careful not to scratch the case bore with the tool......the crank is very hard so scratching that is not really an issue

Guessing you tap the seal down with the punch to subtly til the opposite side of the seal to make removal easier?

 

[Cantdog]

Guessing you tap the seal down with the punch to subtly til the opposite side of the seal to make removal easier?

yes....it also breaks the adhesion between the seal and case.

 

[numnutz6383]

Well as I've said.....you picked about the most challenging Jonsered there is for your project!!!

But patience is key and I'm sure you'll persevere!!! You seem to be willing to expend the cash to make it so and done correctly.

I figure there are much worse things to spend money on. Got to keep expanding my portfolio of hobbies as I get older...

This $50 chainsaw is going to be worth nearly $300 by the time I'm done with it.

Quick question about the need bearing at the connecting arm/wristpin/piston (P/N 504 23 26 03). I can get a used one on chainsawr, but obviously a new one would be better. Was this part number superseded by another Husqvarna number?

 

[Real1shepherd]

As for a seal puller, will one of these work well? I know there are MacGyver methods, but I like having a purpose made tool.

View attachment 1033554

I have that tool....it is a bit cumbersome and probably will give you fits under you understand how to use it. A better tool I had was a slender head tool with like two different hooks on either end....one larger in shape than the other. Great tool, horrible quality steel. The smaller hook I used most, just broke one day.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I figure there are much worse things to spend money on. Got to keep expanding my portfolio of hobbies as I get older...

This $50 chainsaw is going to be worth nearly $300 by the time I'm done with it.

Quick question about the need bearing at the connecting arm/wristpin/piston (P/N 504 23 26 03). I can get a used one on chainsawr, but obviously a new one would be better. Was this part number superseded by another Husqvarna number?

A used wrist pin bearing is probably not gonna be any better than the one you have unless you want a backup. I'm not seeing anything yet on your saw that indicates high hrs and a lot of wear. It looks like an old, lightly used saw that some ***** straight gassed.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Yep agreed. Take your old wrist pin and polish it with some scotchbrite to get any residue off then look at it closely and drag your fingernail across where the bearing rides.....if you can't see or feel any wear then just use your old bearing ... if the pin isn't worn then the bearing won't be either...or at least not enough to make any difference.

 

[numnutz6383]

A used wrist pin bearing is probably not gonna be any better than the one you have unless you want a backup. I'm not seeing anything yet on your saw that indicates high hrs and a lot of wear. It looks like an old, lightly used saw that some ***** straight gassed.

Kevin

For what it's worth, I did some googling and found this Russian parts site, and after translating it seems that Husqvarna p/n 5014516-01 superseded 504 26 23-03.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yep agreed. Take your old wrist pin and polish it with some scotchbrite to get any residue off then look at it closely and drag your fingernail across where the bearing rides.....if you can't see or feel any wear then just use your old bearing ... if the pin isn't worn then the bearing won't be either...or at least not enough to make any difference.

That's what I was saying earlier....to mic measure it across its length. Usually, if it has appreciable wear, you can see with your eyes where the bearing has been riding and a visual confirmation of the wear.....even before you measure it.

Kevin