- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,768
- Reaction score
- 16,091
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Just pull it out.......won't hurt anything....
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,768
- Reaction score
- 16,091
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
WOW!!!! You don't this for sale very often........like ever!!!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2347956495...A63O/TegW9iw58OL9Xx5UzdCs=|tkp:Bk9SR-aigL6WYQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2347956495...A63O/TegW9iw58OL9Xx5UzdCs=|tkp:Bk9SR-aigL6WYQ
Well ok then. I thought since the piston was dry, and the ring is installed, the friction caused by pulling the piston out could potentially mar the cylinder and/or piston...
Any issue cleaning the gunk from electrical components (coil, module, cabling etc) by soaking in isopropyl or will something like bringing with simple green work too?
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,768
- Reaction score
- 16,091
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
I'd go with something gentle like diluted simple green and a toothbrush. Be careful of the the small wires especially where they go into the module. They can have a tendency to shed insulation.
I don't get it.....you mean they pushed the piston in with the rings and wrist pin intact? Just reach in there and pull it out slowly. As said, at a slow speed by hand you won't hurt anything. If you want, take your fingers and lubricate the cylinder with straight oil from your gas/oil brand.
Kevin
Yes, be gentle because the insulation on these old saws degrades. I use a marine-grade brush on insulation if I don't want to take the ends off. If the ends come off, put back heat shrink. Lots of modules have been brought back to 'life' simply by re-insulating the wires.
Kevin
That's a 110 case.....notice the needle bearing for the crank....the case is slightly different for the 111 with the roller bearings. They shouldn't even be mentioning the 111 in the auction. Scott can weigh in on that......
But yeah, where in the heck did that come from all these yrs later? Just tried to buy his base gasket for the 111....says he won't accept bids or offers from me. WTH???
Kevin
Assembling my 2171 and noticed the flywheel key is sheared off .
Is this something that's separate from the flywheel and I'm able to just replace it or is it's molded directly to the flywheel?
I cant even see where a key would be on the flywheel...it's completely smooth on the inside .
Thanks
Ernie
Is this something that's separate from the flywheel and I'm able to just replace it or is it's molded directly to the flywheel?
I cant even see where a key would be on the flywheel...it's completely smooth on the inside .
Thanks
Ernie
I can't speak for all J'reds, especially the later Husky/Jonsered models, but all my keyways have a key. I have seen flywheels with moulded keys on small engines though.
However, if you can't see a channel groove in your flywheel.....that would have to mean it was molded in and the 'key' part sheared off. This means you'll have to source a new flywheel.
Kevin
However, if you can't see a channel groove in your flywheel.....that would have to mean it was molded in and the 'key' part sheared off. This means you'll have to source a new flywheel.
Kevin
I was afraid of that but not being able to see a groove in the flywheel i was thinking it was molded directly in.
Thanks
Ernie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,768
- Reaction score
- 16,091
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Good catch Kevin!!! I didn't even notice that until you mentioned it!! That makes even rarer!!! Though less useful generally speaking....
Did you pizz Brice off somewhere along the way? LOL!!
Yes, that's what it seems they did. I don't see a speck of lubricant of any kind on there.
But from the sounds of it I guess my concern about possibly damaging the piston is unwarranted.
Is rare and as you say, less useful for US collectors/users.
He's on my 'saved sellers' list, so I don't remember a 'dirty' with him. Maybe I'll send him a message and see why. Could be just a glitch.
Just tried to contact him and it and it said, "something went wrong, try again later." WTH......
Kevin
I'm having trouble getting ahold of all the gaskets in the IPL. In particular, the gasket between the cylinder and manifold (504 13 00 10 in the 1st, image, second from the right in 2nd image).
I've been searching around quite a bit with no luck. Does anyone know if this p/n was superseded or if another Jonsered/Husky saw used the same carburator or cylinder?
Or do I just throw the towel in and get some gasket maker?
I've been searching around quite a bit with no luck. Does anyone know if this p/n was superseded or if another Jonsered/Husky saw used the same carburator or cylinder?
Or do I just throw the towel in and get some gasket maker?
If you have the old one, just carefully make a new one with that pattern. Might take a couple until you get it perfect, but worth it.
Kevin
Any specific gasket maker material or the AutoZone (felpro) stuff will work fine?
I'm not brand loyal to gasket makers. I'll use Kapok, Mr.Gasket, Felpro.....whatever is the right thickness and the same material as what was in there. IOW, don't sub in a cork gasket or rubber when you had paper in there originally. I don't believe in most cases you can come up with a 'better' gasket material than the factory did.
I mostly buy my gasket material @NAPA....although when searching for really thin stuff I've bought online. I have a big box with gasket material including smaller sheets of Buna rubber in different thicknesses.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin.
Looks like the old gasket was paper, not much of it left at this point. I'll see if I can get a piece to measure thickness, make my way over to NAPA and get an oil resistant material and cut-to-fit.
I saw a few posts by yourself and @Cantdog regarding impulse corridors and gaskets on Jonsered saws. Let me see if I'm understanding this, if there is an impulse channel between the carb, manifold and cylinder, then the channel should be left completely unobstructed by the gasket. In the second and third pictures you can see the gasket that came off the manifold/carburator partially obstructs this hole, so in my rebuild I should assure this passage is clear, yes?
Looks like the old gasket was paper, not much of it left at this point. I'll see if I can get a piece to measure thickness, make my way over to NAPA and get an oil resistant material and cut-to-fit.
I saw a few posts by yourself and @Cantdog regarding impulse corridors and gaskets on Jonsered saws. Let me see if I'm understanding this, if there is an impulse channel between the carb, manifold and cylinder, then the channel should be left completely unobstructed by the gasket. In the second and third pictures you can see the gasket that came off the manifold/carburator partially obstructs this hole, so in my rebuild I should assure this passage is clear, yes?
