- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,768
- Reaction score
- 16,091
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Yep…. And this isn’t a bearing that spins at high speed……it just rotates a few degrees one way then the other
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I'm learning so much, this is great. I have more questions, however.
I got replacement fuel and vent line tubing Seemed Echo was widely recommended, so I went with that. I was also able to get an original vent line from a 451EV. Which brings me to my question.
What is this at the end of my vent line? I'm guessing some sort of filter. Is it important for me to have one, and if it is, where do I get them and how do I install it?
The routing for this line inside of the tank looks pretty tough to replicate. After it enters the tank, it take a sharp 90 an inserts onto a shelf where it rests. You can see this in the beginning of this video, as well as how dirty the inside of the tank is.
Any tips on how to get this vent line in proper position? There isn't much space here to operate to push the line into that little slot.
View attachment VID20221120163951.mov
I got replacement fuel and vent line tubing Seemed Echo was widely recommended, so I went with that. I was also able to get an original vent line from a 451EV. Which brings me to my question.
What is this at the end of my vent line? I'm guessing some sort of filter. Is it important for me to have one, and if it is, where do I get them and how do I install it?
The routing for this line inside of the tank looks pretty tough to replicate. After it enters the tank, it take a sharp 90 an inserts onto a shelf where it rests. You can see this in the beginning of this video, as well as how dirty the inside of the tank is.
Any tips on how to get this vent line in proper position? There isn't much space here to operate to push the line into that little slot.
View attachment VID20221120163951.mov
That's a sintered bronze filter. As the saw cools down, there can be some vent flow back towards the saw.....this keeps from sucking in any debris. It's actually though, the Swedes overthinking saw venting.....as they were known to do. They are available on eBay....all Chinese made and you'll need to know the dimensions....if you want to even bother. I don't think they are necessary.
To clean the tank without removing the paint in there.....you can try soaking with just straight gas and shaking with a bunch of BB's in there. Lacquer thinner works faster, but will strip out the paint inside. There were a few models where Jonsereds experimented with a tank 'sealer'. Robin & Eric would know which ones maybe. That's why I suggested the straight gas and BB's. I had a 90 tank that was so bad I had to use the lacquer thinner and the BB trick.... took out all the paint too.
As far as the vent routing, I'm not following....I think I'd have to be there to see the issue, sorry. I have no experience with this model saw. I bought some really cool hemostats that are like mechanic's tools...not for medicine. They reach in small spaces and will hold onto anything. WAY better than needle nose pliers. I got the idea from Chickanic on YouTube. I watch her to relax and forget about the world..........plus, how cool is it that a chick works on chainsaws and other gas tools & equipment?
There's also this line phish tool that has a ring for your finger, some cable and a one way type barb on the end. With the barb inserted into your line, you can pull the line through anything. It ruins a small portion of the line where it attaches...so you figure some extra line and cut if you need to.
Kevin
To clean the tank without removing the paint in there.....you can try soaking with just straight gas and shaking with a bunch of BB's in there. Lacquer thinner works faster, but will strip out the paint inside. There were a few models where Jonsereds experimented with a tank 'sealer'. Robin & Eric would know which ones maybe. That's why I suggested the straight gas and BB's. I had a 90 tank that was so bad I had to use the lacquer thinner and the BB trick.... took out all the paint too.
As far as the vent routing, I'm not following....I think I'd have to be there to see the issue, sorry. I have no experience with this model saw. I bought some really cool hemostats that are like mechanic's tools...not for medicine. They reach in small spaces and will hold onto anything. WAY better than needle nose pliers. I got the idea from Chickanic on YouTube. I watch her to relax and forget about the world..........plus, how cool is it that a chick works on chainsaws and other gas tools & equipment?
There's also this line phish tool that has a ring for your finger, some cable and a one way type barb on the end. With the barb inserted into your line, you can pull the line through anything. It ruins a small portion of the line where it attaches...so you figure some extra line and cut if you need to.
Kevin
BB's purchased. Gonna try them with some older E free premix stuff I got.
The vent lines I'm used to from my Ryobi and Toro stuff just kinda hang in the tank. On this saw it lodges into a groove, you can see at the top of the tank in the video. It's tough describe, thought the video would be helpful.
I'm guessing Chickanic is approved, good since I've been watching a bunch of her videos, along with donyboy, steve's small engines, tallfarmboy, and tinman.
The vent lines I'm used to from my Ryobi and Toro stuff just kinda hang in the tank. On this saw it lodges into a groove, you can see at the top of the tank in the video. It's tough describe, thought the video would be helpful.
I'm guessing Chickanic is approved, good since I've been watching a bunch of her videos, along with donyboy, steve's small engines, tallfarmboy, and tinman.
All those guys are good. Rich Dougan is the best chainsaw mechanic in the entire country, but he's retired. He has a channel though(TheChainSaw Guy) and does pass along a lot of tips. He has worked on hundreds of thousands of chainsaws in his life on the west coast in loggin' country. He has forgotten more than donyboy will ever know, for example.
My second choice would be Bob(spike60) who is a member of a lot of chainsaw forums, including this one. No one alive knows more about repairing specifically Jonsered(s) and Husqvarna saws.....parts, models etc. Third choice would be this ol' boy from the south....thought I saved his channel, but can't find it. He's magic with small engines. Steve's small engines is good, but pedantic, but then so is donyboy....they talk to you(the camera) like you're 12. Chickanic as I said. Tinman is a little rough handed with his repairs, but he knows porting theory well...he's OK.
Yeah, I see the vent channel in the vid, but not the same as having the saw in my hand. Someone else who has actually replaced that line could help better.
Kevin
My second choice would be Bob(spike60) who is a member of a lot of chainsaw forums, including this one. No one alive knows more about repairing specifically Jonsered(s) and Husqvarna saws.....parts, models etc. Third choice would be this ol' boy from the south....thought I saved his channel, but can't find it. He's magic with small engines. Steve's small engines is good, but pedantic, but then so is donyboy....they talk to you(the camera) like you're 12. Chickanic as I said. Tinman is a little rough handed with his repairs, but he knows porting theory well...he's OK.
Yeah, I see the vent channel in the vid, but not the same as having the saw in my hand. Someone else who has actually replaced that line could help better.
Kevin
guess this is the place for Jonsereds questions. looked at a 910E yesterday. did a little reading last night. seems guys consider it a real Jonsereds but apparently hard to get parts for. this one runs good and looks good but someone broke off the outside dog and it needs a new clutch cover and dog. will these be hard to find parts? opinions on this model?
'The mowermedic1' is the southern guy I was thinking of.
He fixes chainsaws sometimes, but what you really watch him for is small engine theory....how things work, how to take them apart, tool tips & shortcuts etc.
Kevin
He fixes chainsaws sometimes, but what you really watch him for is small engine theory....how things work, how to take them apart, tool tips & shortcuts etc.
Kevin
It IS the last true Jonsereds. Don't know if you know your chainsaw history, so here:
Electrolux Group AB bought Jonsereds about 1978 when Jonsereds was going strong. They bought Partner, some others and eventually Husqvarna as well.
They moved Jonsereds production over to the Partner building/assembly plant, but didn't interferre with their production designs, just yet.
The engineers at Jonsereds came up with the 910e as a commercial saw and released around 1980. Timber scale was decreasing in tree size by this time and it was a perfect saw for much of the PNW scale.
I had one given to me for a day around 1980, which was their production start date I believe. Lots of lightweight plastic, the 'turbo' concept that kept your airbox and flywheel cleaner than other saws at the time. I was using a Jonsereds 80 at the time for a backup saw. The 910e didn't exactly kick its butt and it was EXPENSIVE for the time. I declined to buy one.
Now, shortly after the 910e came out Electrolux pushed for their own version of the saw and it became the 920e and easy to tell by the Partner influenced handles. Then a yr or so after that the 930e and 930 Super which were Partner/Husky influenced.(Electrolux Group AB had picked up Husqvarna by then)
I've talked to several loggers like myself back in the day who stayed with Jonsered and had all three saw models. Most of them preferred the full-wrap handle & simplicity of the 910e. BUT....the 910e had a weak AV system in the saw's trigger handle. If you stuck your bar in a cut and yanked on it, it would rip out the AV's in the rear handle......the saw's Achilles Heel.
Now, unbeknown to anyone except old west coast loggers, there was a 910e that was a full 100cc saw. They made it to the west coast and into the woods. How many and how widespread the saws were is a mystery I can't unravel. Never seen one or even know how the saw was marked/designated to differ from the standard 910e. That saw would have been a game changer if it was light like the standard 910e. It's truly a Holy Grail saw but you'll not hear anyone talk about one because nobody has come forward with one, that I know of anyway. Electrolux however, killed its production. They had some casting problems with the cases and some were sent back. How much that was a factor in Electrolux's decision to kill the saw......I dunno.
So in answer to your question....the 910e is a great saw and easily repairable IF you can find parts. But like a lot of older unsupported saws, parts are NLA and so you buy donors or hunt online. You should be able to secure a clutch cover by searching on eBay.....but it might take time. I have three of them, but I'm only going to restore one.
Kevin
Kevin, thanks for your response and the history lesson. I knew enough about the buyout to be dangerous but not in detail.
disturbednny
ArboristSite Member
Hey everyone!
It's been a while since I've posted on this forum, but I've recently acquired a jonesered 535 from a barn sale. There are a few parts that I'm looking for, and it looks like i may be SOL unless anyone knows of acceptable replacements? The part or parts that I need so far are 504 59 05-03 and 504 02 00-37 (bar tensioner and screw, the nut is still in good condition). I also need a spark plug but everything else looks ok. No scoring in the cylinder or anything.
If anyone has an idea of how i can get the tensioner fixed I'll be able to bring back another saw from the dead.
Thanks!
It's been a while since I've posted on this forum, but I've recently acquired a jonesered 535 from a barn sale. There are a few parts that I'm looking for, and it looks like i may be SOL unless anyone knows of acceptable replacements? The part or parts that I need so far are 504 59 05-03 and 504 02 00-37 (bar tensioner and screw, the nut is still in good condition). I also need a spark plug but everything else looks ok. No scoring in the cylinder or anything.
If anyone has an idea of how i can get the tensioner fixed I'll be able to bring back another saw from the dead.
Thanks!
Jonsered(s) was good about using parts like these across many model platforms. Although this saw was made in the Electrolux/Jonsered/Husqvarna days.
I'm gonna stop there and wait for someone who knows this saw to tell you what other models may have the same part. I'm hopeful for you that this part maybe found used on other saws as well......maybe even Husky?
You said you need a spark plug as well...you mean a boot or lead? Spark plugs for any saw are easy to source....
Kevin
If you end up removing paint from the inside of the tank, I have used Red-Kote to coat tanks. Have used this on a few silver top Jonsereds and it works quite well.
disturbednny
ArboristSite Member
It looks like Husqvarna discontinued the part for the bar tensioner. The last saws to use them were built in 2009 according to some parts sites. I checked on chainsawr and they have none available. I wasn't sure if anyone on the site had some new old stock lying around I might be able to purchase from... All else fails i may be able to make one myself as i have taps and dies, but if anyone has one around it would help out immensely.
We're using the saw as a 4h project on small engine repair and the parts we found needing fixing are only the bar tensioner, spark plug, and maybe some rubber for the handle as it's pretty loose.
I hope an expert or somebody with a parts saw chimes in too. I'll look at one later. I'd think it would be about the easiest part on a saw to fabricate.
Just started a 2171 rebuild and had a quick question .
Did these have the o-ring behind the clutch ?
I didn't see one when I took it apart but not knowing the history of the saw I'm not sure it may have been removed.
Thanks
Ernie
Did these have the o-ring behind the clutch ?
I didn't see one when I took it apart but not knowing the history of the saw I'm not sure it may have been removed.
Thanks
Ernie
That was on a lot of the Husky-designed saws. Were you able to find a full IPL for the saw yet?
Kevin
I haven't looked for one yet but I did find a part number for the o-ring for this particular saw but what had me confused was there wasn't one there when I took it apart .
I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt to just assemble with the o-ring in place .
Ernie
Finally got the piston and cylinder from the UK based eBay seller. Good news, it looks brand new, came with a new wrist pin and circlips. Bad news. It came "assembled", i.e. the piston is in the cylinder. Any tips or tricks to get it out of the cylinder without causing any damage besides the obvious lube-it-up with 2 cycle oil or Lubriplate?
Pulling it out dry won't hurt, but you could pour some lube down the plug hole.
