Yeah I found that Walmart entry too, but it's not orderable for me from anywhere, Walmart, 3rd party, not available in any store within hundreds of miles. I'd say it's discontinued.
Yeah you can see the difference between the one in the fist pic I posted and the the pic of the one I use.......solid steel opposed to pressed tin. There is no give to the tool when punching. I think I gave less than $20.00 for it but that was a while ago. It works great and better on slightly rubberized material than straight paper....though it's easy to do a good job with either as you can see exactly where the punch point is while holding a slight strain on the tool.......pretty hard to get out of control with it, plus the hole is always square to the material.
Great!! Glad you got it figured out!!
The part # is 504 217 302 for the 451 and 450 too.
They're dependable as a rock.......not hotrods but built like what they were.....the little brother to the 621...both pro saws all the way for smaller (6"-24") wood.
You get used to heated handles quick in our climate!!!!!!
I know I'm my recent spending spree on 451 parts I've come across eBay listings for the flywheel with pawls. I'll see if I can find the listing and I'll send it over.
Is this clean enough or should I keep trying to remove the few spots left on the brass? Went at it with permatex gasket remover and a brass brush to get the thicker stuff, then followed that up with a Dremel and a nylon brush for the smaller residue.
Here are the areas of concern on my coil and moduleNot familiar with that model to work on....BUT those plug leads aren't all screwed on. I ruined a coil on an 80 by trying to unscrew the coil lead....it was molded in somehow. Not saying yours is, but you should see the little screw threads inside the coil if it does work that way.
You guys gotta post pics with questions like these...
Kevin
That looks great!! And the cyl in new so your all set.
That looks pretty normal on that era Jonsereds saws......I've seen much worse. Yep clean it good and put the liquid tape to it. As Kevin says the Star Brite may not be optimum......it is pretty thin and not really designed to replace insulation. It is generally used to merely coat screw type marine connections on switches etc. just to keep moisture/corrosion at bay. However if you have time and patience you can build it up fairly thick with numerous coats
@Cantdog and @Real1shepherd, any experience with the liquid tape offerings from MDR, West Marine or Seachoice?
No I do not......but from my experience West Marine products are very good. I use West System epoxies and various additives frequently......not on saws but woodworking and fiberglass work.
Looking at the can, it says nothing of Star Brite....just a 'Big Game International Brand'. And it says made in the USA in a couple of places.....so not sure why it was recalled in Canada or why that makes any difference.
Nylon brush and a chem that doesn't attack the manifold material. You know gasoline won't hurt it.....lol! Looking good though. Technically, your seal comes from all those ridges around the brass.....but if doesn't damage anything, I'd keep going....you're almost there.
I had a gut feeling it was that fork....especially when you said it was bent up. These days, I'm really leary of AM carb kits.....didn't used to be. I go for the authentic Tilly kits......seem to be still out there. The last thing you wanna be doing in a restore is trying to hunt the fault down of a little misshapen part like that which is supposed to be new.
