Ooooooooh.....I've been wanting to try that West System on a wooden boat hull for about 25 yrs now....lol! So long, in fact, the boat is gone.
Kevin
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Kevin
This was my source where I got that, scroll all the way to the bottom:
Yeah, I mentioned the Seachoice stuff in a reply earlier. Already on order. I was able to get it for $8 at Walmart from a vendor, so it seems like I scored a deal
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Yep....me too.......gave up on AM "tilly" carb kits.....the after market onnes start out ok generally but fail in pretty short order. OEM Tilotson kit have way better staying power and if installed correctly give consistant results.
What in particular fails, just out of curiosity (I purchased an OEM kit).
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The flexible parts like the fuel pump flaps get hard and don't seal any more is the what happens most of the time.
I'm sure the ethanol in our fuel just speeds this up.
Yeah the quality of the rubber used for the diaphragms just doesn't seem as good.
In my case I got a pile of saws including this one from a dealer all with unknown issues. Just trying to get each running at this point.
In my case I got a pile of saws including this one from a dealer all with unknown issues. Just trying to get each running at this point.
I've said it before and I'll say it again....if there is any way possible to find or buy non-ethanol fuel in your area DO IT for your 2cycles!!
If you don't use very much gas a yr, I used to advocate the expensive canned gas. But that YouTuber 'Chickanic' repairs thousands of small engines a yr with her husband and she has 2cycles coming in that are running poorly with the expensive canned gas. She dumps that gas out, puts in her own mix and most often it takes off running correctly. Not a scientific study for sure, but 2 follows 1 and 3 usually follows 2.
In her scenario, I'm not sure if the owners were using the canned mixed gas or mixing their own. I've bought some of the canned gas just straight and mixed it with my oil and had no issues. Just as an experiment because here because I can get the non-ethanol pump gas.
Kevin
If you don't use very much gas a yr, I used to advocate the expensive canned gas. But that YouTuber 'Chickanic' repairs thousands of small engines a yr with her husband and she has 2cycles coming in that are running poorly with the expensive canned gas. She dumps that gas out, puts in her own mix and most often it takes off running correctly. Not a scientific study for sure, but 2 follows 1 and 3 usually follows 2.
In her scenario, I'm not sure if the owners were using the canned mixed gas or mixing their own. I've bought some of the canned gas just straight and mixed it with my oil and had no issues. Just as an experiment because here because I can get the non-ethanol pump gas.
Kevin
Yep nothing goes in my sleds, mower, snowblower, and saws but non-ethy. It's easy to get in northern NH. I keep a 35 gallon gas caddy in my sled trailer and make sure on last ride of year it comes home full of non-ethy for the summer season. I have had good luck with Husqvarna canned fuel from the saw shop since it 95 octane that goes in any base gasket deleted saws I may have. Pump non-ethy around here is typically 90....sometimes 91 octane.
highground7
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same as the 371/372xp put the o ring back in to your rebuild it causes air leaks if not installed
Then as I said earlier....if it has that O-ring then it probably doesn't have a recessed crank seal like as conventional. My Husky 2100 is that way and a lot of other Huskies. How many and what models I don't know.
Kevin
highground7
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the o ring is below the crank seal then a sleeve on top of the o ring then a shim washer then oil pump and worm gear sits on top of the shim washer also put some dirko or moto seal on the oil pump bolts as they go into the crank case . the o ring actually sits on top of the bearing the sleeve sits in the middle of the crank seal and on top of the o ring I hope this helps.
highground7
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highground7
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2171 has the same crankcase,bearings,crankshaft,seals,cylinder and piston and the o ring as the 371/372xp Husqvarna only thing different with the 2171 is the paint and plastics the three series Husqvarnas are totally different from the two series Husqvarnas
I feel the topic of spark plugs has been beaten to death on other parts of this forum, but I really haven't seen this addressed specific to the 451 anywhere.
I'm coming up with multiple different model numbers when cross referencing to NGK from Champion, or when searching specific model application on NGK. Acresinternet.com calls for a Champion CJ7Y. When I cross reference that on NGK's site I get this:
When I lookup the part by specific model, Jonsered 451, the results are as follows:
I get that this may not matter much in the grand scheme of things (or does it), but this is very confusing. That's a difference of one when heat range from one search to another, and not one of the NGK specified models for the saw correspond to any of the CJ7Y cross references. Tell me what to get please.
I'm coming up with multiple different model numbers when cross referencing to NGK from Champion, or when searching specific model application on NGK. Acresinternet.com calls for a Champion CJ7Y. When I cross reference that on NGK's site I get this:
When I lookup the part by specific model, Jonsered 451, the results are as follows:
I get that this may not matter much in the grand scheme of things (or does it), but this is very confusing. That's a difference of one when heat range from one search to another, and not one of the NGK specified models for the saw correspond to any of the CJ7Y cross references. Tell me what to get please.
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Ok....I'm not sure how these differences pertain.......but the 451 had three different ign systems......and I'm not a expert but one of the major sparkplug issues with the older Jonsereds was the fact that the plug terminal end would not accept a regular sparkplug end.......the sparkplug end must unscrew so the wire (in this case coil) will connect. Some (Champion) plugs unscrew where as some (NSK) don't......so the plug depends on your ign system requirements.
That's exactly how mine connects (via screw terminal), and based on the manufacturer specs, all the plugs I mentioned have a threaded terminal. I've seen this come up a few times with other saws too, multiple different plug after cross referencing vs looking by plug manufacturer. All very confusing. Based on the chart here on acresinternet to look up the cross referenced they all seem to call for the same heat rating of 7. I wonder why NGK lookup calls for a hotter plug.
I wanted to remove the starter pawls from the flywheel. I'm guessing I have to remove the nut shown with red arrow. But I'm stumped on how to remove the cap shown with yellow (at least not without potentially damaging something). What am I missing here? Is this just a brute force vise grip situation?
Bosch WSR8F was the factory plug in many originally ported Swede saws. Acres says on his site what the recommended plugs were for most saws.
Then I went with Bosch WS 7F/RO 925 for a very long time......big Huskies and J'reds loved that plug. I think they went extinct. Then I switched to NGK BPM 7A...had a problem with a few of those failing too early. Finally, I switched to Denso W22MP-U and still have a half dozen of those. Found a seller on eBay selling an original lot of Bosch WS 7F/RO 925's and I bought them all. All of those choices unscrew to expose the thread connection. Other than rust, I don't think unused spark plugs deteriorate.
I don't remember the heat ranges, but all my choices were based on originally recommended plugs. I don't think it's critical in chainsaws as long as you stay near the original heat range path for stock saws. When I was buying used chainsaws, I NEVER saw the same plug in a saw and they never crossed with the original plug types. If your saw is running really hot and the heat fins are clear and everything is up to date, then you could experiment with a different heat range for like summer running. Again, unless your saw is overheating I'm not sure it's that critical....the heat range.
Kevin
If I'm thinking about experimenting with heat ranges, I'm getting way ahead of myself. I need to get the saw together and running first. I ordered a few of those Densos, and the NGKs you mentioned. I'll return the NGKs.
Any steering wheel puller recommendations? I'm going to hopefully have the time to remove the clutch and flywheel on Monday, so I want to get what I need tomorrow. Anything to keep in mind in regards to a woodruff key when pulling?
Smaller the better on steering wheel pullers. There was a member that came in here once who was a machinist and offered to make pullers for J'reds. They were real beauties and so I was able to abandon the steering wheel puller.
You'll have to buy your own puller bolts and most likely stack fender washers under the heads to make them work on the puller's bar shape configuration. Sometimes a puller hole will strip out on your flywheel....I just tap to the next metric size and upsize the metric puller bolt....not rocket science. Therefore, inside the puller bag I have two sizes of puller bolts all ready with attendant fender washer stacks. Just make sure when you screw your puller bolts in, that you only go the thickness of the flywheel. Anymore and you can easily damage modules/points underneath. ...
Never had an issue with the keys.....that I remember. The Bosch WS 7F was THE standard for Husky/Jonsereds for a very long time(I miss-typed earlier, but corrected it).
Kevin
