Jonsered Chainsaws

[JoeMay]

It does take some courtship time to get married to it. There are some videos on the internet on how to use it. Once that tip is dug in you have many options to apply leverage.

 

[Real1shepherd]

It does take some courtship time to get married to it. There are some videos on the internet on how to use it. Once that tip is dug in you have many options to apply leverage.

That's what I kinda hoped because it looks like a decent tool.

Kevin

 

[JoeMay]

I often don’t use the tool’s silver fulcrum. It’s too tall to work on saws. So I use a small chunk of wood or other material that will fit in the area of the seal and serve as a fulcrum.

 

[xl130]

So.....again the idea of tapping one side down a bit is to break the seal to the case it has developed over the years, so that you are only pulling the seal and not working against the adheasion at the same time. I use a very simple tool to get these seals out. After breaking the seal with a gentle tap with a punch I insert the small point of the tool in between the seal lip and the crankshaft at the highest point of the seal and by angling the screwdriver so the tip gets under the the metal part of the seal (yellow arrow) and simply lever the seal out against the case, working it around until it is out.
Personally I don't like the screw method.....on most seals there is not enough metal to have a good enough grip plus there is always the chance you may damage the case where the seal must reinstall. For me the way I described is the best......but of course that just my opinion and what works for me........I always gravitate to the simplest process I can come up with....there are many more complictaed methods out there.....in the end removing the seal is what the job is so I prefer to not over complicte it.

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I’ll have to try grinding this shape into an old screwdriver . I usually just start with a small flat blade driver, then grab a bigger one until I can finally pop it out. It’s kind of a touch and go operation that I’ve yet to perfect!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

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If you cant find the better metal clutch covers they offered. Take a old metal one from a 268 66 272 etc and cut it for use.
Also running the plastic covers make sure you run the outer bar plate with them.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If you cant find the better metal clutch covers they offered. Take a old metal one from a 268 66 272 etc and cut it for use.
Also running the plastic covers make sure you run the outer bar plate with them.

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Yep, that was the saws "test run" for me- as arrived, do some cutting with it and see if it has any issues- then start thinking repairs. This one still has the outer bar plate and retaining screw.
Just so happens, old 2 series Husqvarna covers are easily found in my workshop!

 

[ErnieG]

I'm having a problem with my 2065 leaking bar oil from the brass tube .
When its sitting it's actually pumping out of the tube as though it was running .
Could this be a vent issue and if so how would I go about changing it ?
Thanks
Ernie

 

[JoeMay]

Try laying the saw on its side and cracking open the oil cap. Then monitor for leaking. Remember to tighten the cap before using the saw.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I'm having a problem with my 2065 leaking bar oil from the brass tube .
When its sitting it's actually pumping out of the tube as though it was running .
Could this be a vent issue and if so how would I go about changing it ?
Thanks
Ernie

Ernie,
Sure sounds like there is too much residual pressure in the tank causing it to keep pumping out bar oil. Do you know how the Swedes vented the oil tank in that particular saw model? In the older J'reds, they put a tiny hole in the tank casing at the top and then stuck a Carter pin in there. Newer saws would have a different system.

Husky vented a lot of their saws with the oil cap itself. Joe's idea would tell you if it is indeed too much residual pressure.

Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

Ernie,
Sure sounds like there is too much residual pressure in the tank causing it to keep pumping out bar oil. Do you know how the Swedes vented the oil tank in that particular saw model? In the older J'reds, they put a tiny hole in the tank casing at the top and then stuck a Carter pin in there. Newer saws would have a different system.

Husky vented a lot of their saws with the oil cap itself. Joe's idea would tell you if it is indeed too much residual pressure.

Kevin

IPL shows some type of vent behind the bar plate but I'm not sure how to remove it yet ...I haven't dug into it yet
I was thinking it's definitely building pressure because I can watch the oil pump out just sitting on the bench .
I'll have to dig into it tomorrow when I get home from work .
I'm thinking it's the 503 84 12-01 part?
Ernie

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

IPL shows some type of vent behind the bar plate but I'm not sure how to remove it yet ...I haven't dug into it yet
I was thinking it's definitely building pressure because I can watch the oil pump out just sitting on the bench .
I'll have to dig into it tomorrow when I get home from work .
Ernie

2065/2071's have the same kind of oil delivery and venting system as 365 Husqvarnas- yes the vent is between the bar studs and can be pushed out and replaced if needed- but usually it is the brass tube to rubber grommets that allows for leaks.

New grommet part number is 504 30 00 - 26 (Husqvarna part number).

 

[ErnieG]

2065/2071's have the same kind of oil delivery and venting system as 365 Husqvarnas- yes the vent is between the bar studs and can be pushed out and replaced if needed- but usually it is the brass tube to rubber grommets that allows for leaks.

New grommet part number is 504 30 00 - 26 (Husqvarna part number).

At first I thought it may just be the rubber grommet but I can actually watch the oil pumping out of the brass tube just behind the bar plate as if the saw was running.
It's got to be the vents not allowing the pressure to release and causing this .
Ernie

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

At first I thought it may just be the rubber grommet but I can actually watch the oil pumping out of the brass tube just behind the bar plate as if the saw was running.
It's got to be the vents not allowing the pressure to release and causing this .
Ernie

If you have already replaced the grommet and oil pick up line with OEM replacements- then yep, maybe the vent is the next port of call.
Had a 372 show up here recently that was syphoning the oil tank at rest- not just a dribble- but constant oil delivery with a static pump until the tank drained on the floor. I replaced the vent on that one- but it is unusual to need to do so.

 

[ErnieG]

If you have already replaced the grommet and oil pick up line with OEM replacements- then yep, maybe the vent is the next port of call.
Had a 372 show up here recently that was syphoning the oil tank at rest- not just a dribble- but constant oil delivery with a static pump until the tank drained on the floor. I replaced the vent on that one- but it is unusual to need to do so.

Do you know how the vent is changed on this saw ?
Ernie

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Do you know how the vent is changed on this saw ?
Ernie

Yep, you remove the bar plate- push the vent out from the inside of the oil tank and push in a new one from the outside.
Sometimes the one way valve gets gunked up and they can be soaked and or manipulated with air pressure to start working again and reinstalled- but if you can find a new one easily- I would just replace it.

 

[numnutz6383]

Having trouble cleaning the gas tank on my 451 project. I got the varnished fuel out of the tank, but I really wanted to completely remove the paint and whatever liner Jred may have put in there as well and then re-seal it with Red-Kote. To remove the fuel residues I used lacquer thinner and BBs. Once the varnished fuel was removed I put clean lacquer thinner into the tank with more BBs and let it sit...and sit...and sit, shaking it a bunch of times over the course. Probably had thinner in there for over a week. The tank still has pretty much intact paint in there.

What can I use that's stronger than lacquer thinner?

 

[Real1shepherd]

My experience with lacquer thinner is that it's ferocious on paint....even the fumes. I use it exactly like you noted with BBs. It even gassed enough that it stripped all that paint off where the vent screwed onto the top of the tank.

Make sure you didn't buy that 'low-odor' stuff or VOS....whatever it's called. Garbage and less than half the strength of regular lacquer thinner.

I don't know anything stronger.....I use it in a USC to free up stuck injectors even and it cleans them every time.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

My experience with lacquer thinner is that it's ferocious on paint....even the fumes. I use it exactly like you noted with BBs. It even gassed enough that it stripped all that paint off where the vent screwed into the top of the tank.

Make sure you didn't buy that 'low-odor' stuff or VOS....whatever it's called. Garbage and less than half the strength of regular lacquer thinner.

I don't know anything stronger.....I use it in a USC to free up stuck injectors even and it cleans them every time.

Kevin

Well color me stumped then. I used the regular no non-VOC formula stuff available at Lowe's.

 

[numnutz6383]

Anyone have experience with Citri-Strip for something like this?