Whered you get the decals? My 2171 was a “cutters edge” rescue saw in its first life. They put their decals on which I removed. The saw is clean but looks off without the stickers.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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I got mine from Ereplacement parts.com, they were that last two they had on hand. Several other spots had 'em though, a google search with the p/n should bring them up pretty quickly.
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Here ya go!!! Just as it came out of the box. Pretty ugly but very intact for a well used, 55 yr old chainsaw!! Top handle is likely done in.....probably put it in the press and see it I can help it any but the metal is described as "Work Hardening" ....same as the alum body on a series Land Rover.......means once bent, becomes much more hard/brittle and unwilling to be forced back to it's original shape. Correct amount of heat is key......on Land Rover body skin we would rub a bar of ivory soap on the work area and heat it from the back side ....the instant the soap cleared you could try straightening......gain some ...repeat... But I digress.......no breaks, no stripped or missing bolts, good compression, no spark (not surprising) uses quite a few parts that also came on newer saws.....like the carb is the same 21D used on the 49sp, 52/52E, 621 etc. Air filter 621/80. Seals are the same as all the others 49SP through 111S. Ign is the same as 621 etc. A rather rare saw but of more modern design...minus AV. Kind of a bridge between the real old designs and the 70's era saws.
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A couple more. The clutch cover I found for it. Shot of the trigger. Easy to see the where the trigger setup for the 621 originated from.
Cool old Jonsereds Robin. The trigger handle offset is unique. Reminds of some of DM Mack’s with offset cab!
Sweet clutch cover fer sure! When you said 'handle', I thought you meant the trigger handle(thinking no way he can work that mag without breaking it).
All kinds of possibilities for an aluminum wrap handle.
You sure you can't retrofit a later handle on that saw with maybe a little bending? It doesn't look that unique or proprietary.
Gonna be brutal to run with no AV's, but yeah, see a lot of features on the saw that carry over into later AV saws. Is that button next to the AF a kill switch? You can just pull-start it any time, but kill it with that?
Kevin
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I will try to straighten the top handle but would be nicer to find one that's not dented, bent and with a good covering. Probably just stripping the FUBARd covering will furnish a new perspective......
I can't speak for the 751 (75cc) but I have it's little brother the 601 (56cc) and you don't really miss the AV as much as you do with say a Super XL. It is remarkably smooth to run.
Yes push to kill switch and spring loaded back to "On"
I can't speak for the 751 (75cc) but I have it's little brother the 601 (56cc) and you don't really miss the AV as much as you do with say a Super XL. It is remarkably smooth to run.
Yes push to kill switch and spring loaded back to "On"
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Yes it makes the saw seem more like an extention of your arm and also gives the saw a narrower feel for a 75cc saw.
I think the reason that these saws (601 & 75/751) designs didn't last long was in part this trigger handle setup.......if the trigger handle got crunched as they sometimes do, the entire PTO case half would have to be replaced rather than just replacing the modular handle the later saws used on saws from the 49SP clear up through the 90 (excluding the 621)
Yes push to kill switch and spring loaded back to "On"
Wow....before my time in the woods. Good point on the handle; you bend/ break it; you're screwed with the case half it's part of. That cuts down on the numbers that survived too!
Used to be you could get that shrink-type wrap handle covering from Stihl. But it wasn't the same....didn't have those J'reds ridges. I preferred that anodized black paint they used or whatever it was.
Kevin
Wow....before my time in the woods. Good point on the handle; you bend/ break it; you're screwed with the case half it's part of. That cuts down on the numbers that survived too!
Used to be you could get that shrink-type wrap handle covering from Stihl. But it wasn't the same....didn't have those J'reds ridges. I preferred that anodized black paint they used or whatever it was.
Kevin
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So.......a couple more 751 pics that I found interesting. The carb itself and area around it is remarkably clean.
It also appears that both the OEM near impossible to find junction/vent block to carb fuel line and the long OEM vent line to the clutch side with sintered filter to be recent....both are very supple and flexible with no cracking or to squishy!! It also looks like it may have had a carb kit as the whole carb exterior is exceptionally clean. (Of course, it will get taken apart, cleaned and get a new OEM Tillotson kit)
The other thing cool is the original starter pull........
It also appears that both the OEM near impossible to find junction/vent block to carb fuel line and the long OEM vent line to the clutch side with sintered filter to be recent....both are very supple and flexible with no cracking or to squishy!! It also looks like it may have had a carb kit as the whole carb exterior is exceptionally clean. (Of course, it will get taken apart, cleaned and get a new OEM Tillotson kit)
The other thing cool is the original starter pull........
Robin.....I was gonna comment before that the pull has to be original. No one would replace a worn pull with one that looked that ancient...lol! You'd only see a pull like that on an original saw most likely.
You know how I feel about that chite copper AF screen. Get the flocked filer and its special cover. The original fuel/vent lines were that color. Could have been replaced with OE at some time....but I'm betting they are OLD. Still, if they are supple and don't crack when you bend them. Clamp looks OE.
Kevin
You know how I feel about that chite copper AF screen. Get the flocked filer and its special cover. The original fuel/vent lines were that color. Could have been replaced with OE at some time....but I'm betting they are OLD. Still, if they are supple and don't crack when you bend them. Clamp looks OE.
Kevin
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Yep they are OE for sure as the fuel line is much larger on the junction block end and the carb end is much smaller. Same lines used on the later 52/52E, 621, 80, 90. These look new to me but new may well mean in the last 20 years!! LOL!! I believe the saw was not used very much since this work in the carb area was done.....though that was very likely quite some time back judging from the fuel tank.
In my ponderings today I found that I have in stock atleast two NOS recoil spring kits for the 601 and 751......though I don't need them presently good to know. I love these recoils.....the outer cover that is held on with two screws on the 601 and three screws on the 751......when the cord gets slack rather than removing the recoil and winding another turn onto the pully like the newer models, these you simply remove the screws and rotate the outer spring cover one half revolution on the 601 or one third revolution on the 751 or as much as needed to add tension to the system......pretty simple to use...
In my ponderings today I found that I have in stock atleast two NOS recoil spring kits for the 601 and 751......though I don't need them presently good to know. I love these recoils.....the outer cover that is held on with two screws on the 601 and three screws on the 751......when the cord gets slack rather than removing the recoil and winding another turn onto the pully like the newer models, these you simply remove the screws and rotate the outer spring cover one half revolution on the 601 or one third revolution on the 751 or as much as needed to add tension to the system......pretty simple to use...
Yeah, seen the original lines/clamps on the 80/90/621....even how they ran across the carb on the 80/90 with the vent line and held it with a little wire hanger. Most people who put a kit in the carb, just tossed the hanger. But it's nice to see it all OE once in a while.
Kevin
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In going about my usual saw work at the shop I've been finding a few NOS bits here and there needed by the 751that it was missing.....yesterday found a pair NOS bar nuts and NOS inner and outer bar plates and a NOS spike set. Also found an old 20" Oregon roller nose bar that will work fine after a bit of reconditioning. I think the top handle is all I'm missing so far........much better than I was thinking....
Good stuff...your saw is well on the road to recovery! That recoil pull is classic...lol.
Kevin
Anybody have a pdf file for the 90 ?
Thanks
Ernie
Thanks
Ernie
Ernie,
What are you needing exactly? I have the original hard copy of the 90 Parts List, or the original Service Manual for the 80(same thing) in hard copy.
Don't mind scanning if you want either. Actually, you'd need to specify what part of the Service Manual you'd want to be scanned....it's 22 pages.
Kevin
What are you needing exactly? I have the original hard copy of the 90 Parts List, or the original Service Manual for the 80(same thing) in hard copy.
Don't mind scanning if you want either. Actually, you'd need to specify what part of the Service Manual you'd want to be scanned....it's 22 pages.
Kevin
Kevin
I wasn't looking for just ONE part in particular rather the entire saw .
I like to try and have the pdf for each of my saws .
I picked up a nice one awhile back and wanted to start giving it a tune-up and cleaning .
I'll check the web for the 80 ..maybe that will be easier to find .
Thanks
Ernie
I wasn't looking for just ONE part in particular rather the entire saw .
I like to try and have the pdf for each of my saws .
I picked up a nice one awhile back and wanted to start giving it a tune-up and cleaning .
I'll check the web for the 80 ..maybe that will be easier to find .
Thanks
Ernie
Ernie,
The thing is, Jonsereds didn't make public a Service Manual for all their saws. I've never seen one for the 90, but I have the 80's. I've never seen one for the 910 either, for example. I have a hard copy for both as far as a Parts List, but not Service Manuals. Pretty sure if you were a participating dealer you got a big Service Manual for all their saws at any given time. I have a huge loose-leaf dealer service book for Husky.
If you can't find the 80's Service Manual, I'll scan it all for you. My bet though, is someone has already scanned it.
Kevin
The thing is, Jonsereds didn't make public a Service Manual for all their saws. I've never seen one for the 90, but I have the 80's. I've never seen one for the 910 either, for example. I have a hard copy for both as far as a Parts List, but not Service Manuals. Pretty sure if you were a participating dealer you got a big Service Manual for all their saws at any given time. I have a huge loose-leaf dealer service book for Husky.
If you can't find the 80's Service Manual, I'll scan it all for you. My bet though, is someone has already scanned it.
Kevin
Kevin
I'd appreciate it if you can scan it for me ...i haven't had any luck finding the 80 .
Would you send it via email ?
I've begun the carb kit today and I have a question about the gasket between the carb and block .
Here's a pic of the two gaskets with the top being the replacement that came with the kit and the bottom the original that came off the saw .
The replacement gasket doesn't block the entire impulse port like the original.
I'd assume this would be a problem ...what would my options be ?
Thanks
Ernie
I'd appreciate it if you can scan it for me ...i haven't had any luck finding the 80 .
Would you send it via email ?
I've begun the carb kit today and I have a question about the gasket between the carb and block .
Here's a pic of the two gaskets with the top being the replacement that came with the kit and the bottom the original that came off the saw .
The replacement gasket doesn't block the entire impulse port like the original.
I'd assume this would be a problem ...what would my options be ?
Thanks
Ernie
