Yeah, just destroyed piston ring in my 535. It was tuned leanish, I had one stubborn spruce which had too many knots for my axe and I thought I'll split it using old red. In the middle impulse line got loose and before end saw died. Compression lost.
OOoooohhhh.........you're gonna like that!!!! That be a screamer right out of the box!!
A lot of folks think the 590 is just a red 5000+ but it isn't. The 490 (44MM)is the same as the 5000/5000+. The 590 sports one MM more bore (45mm) and is for all pracical purposes the same top end as the much covetted Husky 55 EPA which was actually 51cc as opposed to the regular open port 55 which was 55cc. This is one of those rare cases where more is not better. I have a real nice 590 that Pioneer600 brought down to me.....I also have a couple 490s. The 490 is a great saw and will sit and idle until it runs out of gas but is no slouch for a 49cc saw . The 590 hates to idle and won't stand for it long......it's rather high strung and really likes to be making chips.....quick and light it is. Most of my saws this size run .325 but the 590 will have no problem with 3/8".
There used to be studs occasionally out on the bay that converted to large mount Husky. Depending on who made the bar, I've had large mount Husky bars fit right on those 10mm studs.I have successfully revived the 920. Very happy to have this saw back amongst the living.
I was very excited to put some fuel and bar oil in it and get at’er. My joy came to a screeching halt the second that I tried to put a bar on it! Nothing I have fits it
I guess the 920 had larger studs than the 820? I think my Husky and Homelite/Poulan bars worked on the 820 without much hassle.
Are there different size studs that can be installed? Possibly a Stihl bar can be used? Alternatively I guess I could pick a bar and grind the slot out. What have you guys done?
Like Robin said....occasionally there were Jonsered saws that weren't just Husky clones. Those often had slightly different cases that made the stroke longer down in the case than their Husky counterpart. Not usually a big deal, but can cause for Husky piston modification....or you hunt for the correct piston.
I know...just throwin' out some J'red trivia in case you might need it....or not.
oh okay- yeah Im pretty much up with the play on 20## and 21## variants and subtle changes around the brake knee area of some in particular- never been keen on the 22## types- but at that kind of money- why not!I know...just throwin' out some J'red trivia in case you might need it....or not.
Kevin
There used to be studs occasionally out on the bay that converted to large mount Husky. Depending on who made the bar, I've had large mount Husky bars fit right on those 10mm studs.
Some will tell you it's a walk in the park to open up a bar slot. All I can say to that is it depends.....on the bar manufacturer and what the bar was supposed to originally fit. Also depends on how hard the bar is. I modified a Carlton bar back in the early 2000's and it broke like three diamond bits....one hard sucker!
If you were going to use it every day, I'd let a machinist make you some studs or ask around online if anyone has a set....won't be cheap, but maybe cheaper than a machinist's charge.
Interesting that 920 has the 10mm studs. That was an early Electrolux Group AB saw and I would have thought they got away from the 10mm studs the large, old Jonsereds had. Betting that when they got to the 930 Super, they were large mount Husky....lots of Husky influence on that particular saw.
Kevin
Nice looking saw! Full-wrap.
I like the rawness of the 910, but the whole series is excellent. The Partner influence on that wrap handle is a bit much.....but the 910 AV's were inherently weak if you pinched the bar and yanked.
