Jonsered Chainsaws

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The more I looked at the piston the better it looked, I have no doubt it be a fine runner as is. The saws not going into production work anytime soon, it’ll sit there and look pretty with occasional use. I don’t have much into this saw, so I don’t mind spending a bit on it. LRB has a full skirt piston for them, thought I saw film skirt meteors for a husky162 out there aswell

Thx
Kevin
 
The more I looked at the piston the better it looked, I have no doubt it be a fine runner as is. The saws not going into production work anytime soon, it’ll sit there and look pretty with occasional use. I don’t have much into this saw, so I don’t mind spending a bit on it. LRB has a full skirt piston for them, thought I saw film skirt meteors for a husky162 out there aswell

Thx
Kevin
I would steer clear of LRB piston and or seals. Or Golf pistons for that matter. You have a real nice saw with a very high performance cyl., don't put a junk piston in it and risk losing the cyl. Either use the original or go with a Meteor. Try Kevins suggestion of doing the redneck compression test. It is a fair indicator of piston fit in leu of accurate measurements.
 
I would steer clear of LRB piston and or seals. Or Golf pistons for that matter. You have a real nice saw with a very high performance cyl., don't put a junk piston in it and risk losing the cyl. Either use the original or go with a Meteor. Try Kevins suggestion of doing the redneck compression test. It is a fair indicator of piston fit in leu of accurate measurements.
It passed the redneck compression test, no rocking in the bore, maybe I will just get a caber ring for it and send it.
 
Ring ordered. Thanks for the help. Any advise on prepping the cylinder for new rings
I use the "Wigglesworth" method. Tight fitting arbor with a brown Sctochbrite pad run down in the cylinder with a drill....like a hone. Only it's infinitely more safe than any hone....just time consuming.

Randy(mastermind) has a YouTube video on it. Not a fanboy, but a lot of the stuff he does is interesting, like this.

Kevin
 
I use the "Wigglesworth" method. Tight fitting arbor with a brown Sctochbrite pad run down in the cylinder with a drill....like a hone. Only it's infinitely more safe than any hone....just time consuming.

Randy(mastermind) has a YouTube video on it. Not a fanboy, but a lot of the stuff he does is interesting, like this.

Kevin
That’s kinda what i was thinking aswell, I did that with some red scotchbright, maybe I’ll pick up something a bit stiffer
 
That’s kinda what i was thinking aswell, I did that with some red scotchbright, maybe I’ll pick up something a bit stiffer
I bought a box of the brown pads from some online industrial supplier many yrs ago. I've found dozens of other uses for them, so the expense of the box was well worth it. In fact, they became my defacto method for rust removal for yrs. Since then Dremel has come up with some outstanding accessories for rust removal which don't require all the tough hand work. I also figured out a way to polish vintage tools, that doesn't require wire brushes on drills and bench grinders (*gasp*) and removing original chrome/nickel finish. I can't believe what people are doing to vintage tools on YouTube.:confused:

Here's an example of an old Bonney socket.
 

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I bought a box of the brown pads from some online industrial supplier many yrs ago. I've found dozens of other uses for them, so the expense of the box was well worth it. In fact, they became my defacto method for rust removal for yrs. Since then Dremel has come up with some outstanding accessories for rust removal which don't require all the tough hand work. I also figured out a way to polish vintage tools, that doesn't require wire brushes on drills and bench grinders (*gasp*) and removing original chrome/nickel finish. I can't believe what people are doing to vintage tools on YouTube.:confused:

Here's an example of an old Bonney socket.
Wow that’s night and day.
 
Wow that’s night and day.
Thanks.....I started doing it for hire along with other stuff in my repair clinic. Got tired of seeing folks ruin these great old tools. As long as the owner doesn't expect them to be 'perfect as new'....which is not possible.

Kevin
 
Hello Jonsered people!

I am rebuilding a 920 and I need to replace the impulse line. Any suggestions of material and where to find it?
For fuel lines and tubing, I go down to my local Honda outdoor power equipment dealer and just have the service dept size whatever I need by the ft. Stuff seems to last.

Kevin
 
I measured approximately 1/8 ID, 3/16 OD, so about 3mm and 5mm I guess.

I thought that high temp vac hose would hold up better than tygon or other fuel line but if you have been using fuel line then that good to know.
 
I measured approximately 1/8 ID, 3/16 OD, so about 3mm and 5mm I guess.

I thought that high temp vac hose would hold up better than tygon or other fuel line but if you have been using fuel line then that good to know.
Dont use tygon for impulse lines. I have in past but can be iffy at best. best to use the black rubber oem echo like I showed.

I like 3x6 for impulse myself. But used 3x5 on the 670 if I recall right.

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Hello Jonsered people!

I am rebuilding a 920 and I need to replace the impulse line. Any suggestions of material and where to find it?

If you have a Stihl shop close- they may have or can get (long wait) packs of Stihl impulse line in around 3 foot lengths- 3mm ID 5mm OD, its good stuff- but might cost a bit more than some of the other offerings.
 
If you have a Stihl shop close- they may have or can get (long wait) packs of Stihl impulse line in around 3 foot lengths- 3mm ID 5mm OD, its good stuff- but might cost a bit more than some of the other offerings.
Thanks. I do have a large Stihl dealer here in Ottawa. I buy a lot of odds and ends there. I’ll check them for sure.
 

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