Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

You may know this but I'll say it anyway....Once you get the flywheel off make certain you mark the points base and the case somewhere so you can return the assembly to its original position and not lose your timing...this is important...

 

[Whiskers]

Thanks Cantdog for the responses...I've been trying the three way puller threaded into the flywheel without much luck so far. I've been careful not threading them to deep as to mess up any of the points and condensor setup. Also why I pulled the threads out of one of the holes, It wasn't in nearly deep enough. I didn't get very aggressive with hitting the end of the center puller screw with a mallet, I was a bit affraid of messing something up, but I'm going to give that another go.

Do I need to mark the points and condensor setup before I get the flywheel popped off? Is there any chance on it moving when the flywheel comes loose?

As far as the saw, I didn't pick it up on ebay, I picked it up late summer from a guy who had a couple sitting in a barn. I don't see very many Jreds around here, but I believe they came out of Montana when some of his relative relocated. It didn't exactly look like that when I acquired it. Here's the before pic, It's not very good, but you get the idea. I have no idea why I've spent so much time bringing the saw back to life, but for some reason the 80 fits my eye.

Before, it's the one on the left. It's brother is on the right. It was so caked with dust and bar oil the drum wouldn't turn.

 

[Cantdog]

Yeah it's kinda tricky but you need to use all the threads in the flywheel and you can go through perhaps 1/8" without problems but you have to take measurements and get the bolt length right, The ign box and plate stays where it is when you remove the flywheel....but you have to remove it as the seal is behind the plate. The points don't matter as I assume you'll be filing them and regapping (0.016") while you're in there. But the plate that the points are mounted to is adjustable...that is what you want to mark along with a corrisponding mark on the case to be able to get you back to the original timing setting. Don't forget this important step!!! Points are just set on the high point of the cam to 0.016"

The 80 is a fine old saw...a little slow by todays standards and rather heavy but I use mine when fitting up stove wood and need the 2 foot bar....it put a half cord of 24" ash into stove length in about 10 mins this last fall..I love it...it pulls 238lbs compression so you really have to be comittted when starting it...no wimpy pulling!!! I have the first jonsereds I ever ran...it is an 80 owned by a late, older friend of mine..when he passed his sons gave it to me knowing I would restore their dads favorite saw to like new condition.....which I will ..been aquiring NOS parts as I find them..new P&C, recoil and clutch cover etc.. Need a new muffler...all but the one on the saw I use look just like yours...LOL!!! These saws were made to work!!!!

 

[Whiskers]

Jonsereds 80 Update

Got the new clutch side seal in, but still no luck popping the flywheel. For the time being I'm going to leave the flywheel side alone because my pressure and vac test came back perfect. As the old saying goes, don't mess with it if it ain't broke. I was affraid I was going to break something with all the pressure I had on the 3 way puller, and a handful of solid raps on the crank didn't break it loose.

After all that, saw fired with some priming but wouldn't run, come to find out I had the gasket and diaphram reversed in one side of the carb. After I got that fixed, she fired up and got her tuned in. I think I'm good to go, except, I need to make an exhaust baffle for the muffler.

PS: You better be committed when you pull the rope on these things, and even then it might not be enough to save your fingers from impending doom.

Thanks again for the help Cantdog, and I'll get some pics posted up when I get the tip replaced on the bar and the bar fitted on the saw. It will be wearing a total super bar that I got with the saw. Sounds like people have a lot of good things to say about Tsumura bars, I'm looking forward to finding out.

 

[Whiskers]

Jonsereds 80 Oiler

Well, I knew it was to good to be true Saw runs like a champ, but the oiler isn't putting out any oil. I've got the screw out a couple turns and nothing. Pulled the strainer cap and everything seems to be intact. All hoses are connected as they should be. Any ideas or trouble shooting tips? Can I blow some compressed air through the line? Thanks

 

[Cantdog]

First make sure the oil hole in the bar lines up with the oil passage and the hole is clear of debris..if that's good then sometimes this will work...remover the chain catcher and filter screen and with a pump type oil can, squirt as much oil up the line in the bottom of the filter area as it will take..this may prime the oiler and get it working...if not you will have to pull the pump and see what the problem is...or you can just back the screw out more and try that....

 

[Whiskers]

No luck getting the oiler working. How do I get the pump out once the outer cover and screw are removed? Any tips or tricks?

Thanks

 

[cambl]

No luck getting the oiler working. How do I get the pump out once the outer cover and screw are removed? Any tips or tricks?

Thanks

This is the puller that Jonsered used to make. It is 8mm, but very fine thread. A hardware store that has a good metric selection may have a M8 bolt with this thread pitch. Screw it in, and tug it out.

 

[cambl]

670 one-piece ignition with old style flywheel?

I have a 670 case from '97 that I am trying to save since it was that last year for the 670 (or maybe the last was'98). The crank is rough, so I want to use a 1992 crank and flywheel which normally goes with the old 2-piece ignition system.

Will the old style flywheel work OK with the one-piece ignition? The magnets seem to be in the same positions. Flywheels do not swap between old/new cranks, the taper is completely different.

 

[Whiskers]

Thanks, I removed the oil pump, took it apart and cleaned the whole thing out, and checked all the O rings. Everything seems to be good, all of the oil channels appear to be clear. Still not oiling, I'm kind of at a loss here, any other ideas? The bar oil hole lines up correctly, but I was also running it at low spead with no bar and still no oil. Do these saws have trouble with this bar oil, I've got some cheap stuff in there that seems a bit thick? Thanks

 

[Cantdog]

Did you prime it as I described in post 1506??

 

[Whiskers]

In retrospect, I'm not sure I primed it after pulling it or not. I'll give it another whirl tonight and see if that gets her working. I actually swapped oilers, I had another from a donor saw that had O rings in perfect shape. The original ones weren't bad, but the one closest to the crank end was a little chewed up.

 

[Whiskers]

I think the inlet tube got hung up on the line from the screen to the pump and the oil tank wasn't very full, so basically I'm an idiot. Good news is, after priming, adjusting the intake hose, and filling the oil tank, I'm in business. Thanks for all the help, now all that's left if getting the saw back in some wood. Who knows how long since it's seen its last cut. I'll post some pics later...thanks for all the help.

 

[tigersaw]

Questions on J-reds 51

Hi,
Just had a few questions on the 51. Was wondering the differences between it, and the 52. I looked on the Acres site, and the only diff I could see was the coating on the cylinder walls; chrome for the 51 vs. nikasil on the 52. Is that it, or is there more that I am missing? I bought this saw as a "parts or repair saw" on e-bay. The only thing I did was rinse out the fuel tank w fresh mix clean the fuel filter, fill it with gas and presto; 7 pulls later... vrooom. A quick carb tune and a few strokes with the file and I had it cutting wood. Better to be lucky than good sometimes.

 

[taplinhill]

The 51 does not have the adjustable oiler like the 52/52E. It also came out before the 52/52E. Not 100% sure of the build dates and don't know if the 51 and 52 overlap, but by the time the 49SP came along the 51 was gone.

 

[PB]

The 51 does not have the adjustable oiler like the 52/52E. It also came out before the 52/52E. Not 100% sure of the build dates and don't know if the 51 and 52 overlap, but by the time the 49SP came along the 51 was gone.

It also has needle bearings that ride on the crankshaft compared to a standard ball bearing the later models. After heavy use this would cause the crankshaft to become worn where it was in contact with the needles.

 

[Whiskers]

Jonsereds 80 Up and Running

Here's a couple pics of my Jreds 80 wearing a 20" Total Super Bar. Only a couple odds and ends left, I need to fab up an outlet baffle for the muffler and I've currently got a Stihl Elastostart handle installed that doesn't exactly fit in the hole when rewound. I'm might go with a D handle, or slap a little black magic marker over the stihl orange and call it a day. Thanks again Cantdog, I appreciate all the helpful advice.

 

[tigersaw]

J-reds 51

Thanks Taplinhill, and PB for the info on the 51. Sounds like the 52 was a little better rig. Sure is fun to use these older saws. My Dad bought a 90 new in 1977 to clear several big trees where we were going to build an irrigation lake. I think the only thing we have ever done to it is put in a carb kit or two; still runs as good as it ever did. I have the 51, a 621, and a 2172. I know the 2172 is not a "pure", or even a "true" J-reds, but it is a lot better looking than if it happened to be orange.

 

[cambl]

Here's a couple pics of my Jreds 80 wearing a 20" Total Super Bar. Only a couple odds and ends left, I need to fab up an outlet baffle for the muffler and I've currently got a Stihl Elastostart handle installed that doesn't exactly fit in the hole when rewound. I'm might go with a D handle, or slap a little black magic marker over the stihl orange and call it a day. Thanks again Cantdog, I appreciate all the helpful advice.

Nice job, always good to see an old Jony saved from the bone pile and brought back to life.

Let's get that Stihl starter handle off of there and get you a proper one!

 

[3000 FPS]

opcorn: