Just for Jack

[jkrueger]

Knot history, John Hitch?

We, should have some history and acknowledgment for the hitches origin. We got it through John, and did he arrieve at it or did he get it from some one else?

I want to try it with different cords and measurements. As I use a cord my numbers have to change, turns, etc. when it ages.

So far I trust it more than any other hitch or variation on hitches. That seemed the hardest part of using it.

It is so well enginered as a knot/hitch I'm in heaven with it's beauty.

Jack

 

[BigJohn]

The origin of the knot shown is my version of a knot used by Jim Roach. I always had trouble remembering exactly how he tied it and this is what I managed to tie and use everday and got use to using. Glad to hear you all like it. One reason for the biner setup is that if you need to unclip from your rope there is only one biner to unclip. The timer doesn't stop in competition until your unclipped. Also I like to keep everything inline and together. I learned this setup as from Roachy as well. I was using a quick draw strap before to link them together. I know he now uses something just a little different. I havent really looked at it. We don't work together much anymore.

 

[TreeJunkie]

Which carabiner get the spliced eye clipped into it? This still seems real hazy to me b/c the pick posted isn't the full setup, and the possibilitys i'm pictured aren't really registering in my skull correctly. What kind of saddle are you clipping this into? I'm thinking this would twist my setup a little funny i'm using b/fly clipping directly around the webbing.

 

[Nickrosis]

Yeah, and I'm wondering if you find there's less twisting by having a rope tied in to the closest carabiner and the friction hitch tied into the distant one versus having both next to each other on carabiners/snaps.

 

[BigJohn]

The spliced eye goes in the captive eye biner on the bottom. I believe there is less twisting. I clip it into the butterfly.

 

[roachy]

I do agree that if you are not in tune with your system the biners can get twisted,the thing was when I started playing with slacktenders I never cared for the dog leash snap the next step was two biners with the pulley on the same biner as the hitch but on my butterfly that biner faced the wrong direction for fluid motion so by using the captive eye and biner chain the pulley is facing the rope allthe time as when you are footlocking your tail .as well as the captive eye remains straight as your weight is always on it andthe small amount of drop for the second biner gives just the right amount of play .John and I have both played with other combinations as well as using pieces of rubber in the eye to stop any rolling but this works best for me and I never side load the top biner.
Ideally I wnted to see a two gate biner with this congfiguration in mind or something to that effect.

 

[rbtree]

John and roachy,

Interesting setup.... Question, though...am I correct in assuming you're attaching your spliced eye to the main section of the captive eye biner? I see no other way based on your description, but that seems like it would load the biner a bit awkwardly?

I can see reasons why you like your setup....I use a similar biner chain on my Versatile, where I kind of like to use the fixed attachment loops versus the sliding bridge. Having the line deadended at a point inches away from the friction knot setup biner is great for ease when unclipping and reclipping, as you'll never grab hold of the wrong biner.

Another reason why I like separate biner attachment points is for choking the lifeline around the spar when doing removals, which should be a common practice. Your setup would have to altered to accomplish this...but I can see that could be easily switched over. No problem when using the Butterfly with its bridge, but somehow I prefer the Versatile loops. Of course the sliding bridge is sweet, a feature I first discovered back in the mid 80's on the Sierra Blair.

I'll try your friction knot, it certainly looks good, thanks.

 

[roachy]

you are correct on the rope placement I will post a better photo soon it is not awkward though

 

[jkrueger]

Originally posted by roachy
you are correct on the rope placement I will post a better photo soon it is not awkward though

Ive been using that hitch and biner set up since I met John and spent a morning climbing and talking with him. Thanks to you too, since you are the source..

Have had a great deal of expansion in my climbing with it.

Again thanks, and great to have you here,
Jack

 

[roachy]

lets see if this works

 

[roachy]

a little better look at advancing the hitch

 

[roachy]

one more

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Mr. Roach; glad ta see ya here; we've been hearing of ya for quite some time 'round these parts and some of the other boards as well. All good too; and this can be a tough audience!

i'm sure whatever finetuning and insights the racing calibre level has been able to squeeze and reconfigfure from the same basic tools will be very broadening and enlightening to a lot of us!

i use a frictinon hitch adjuster on lanyard, tied straight to D, using D also as tender; lacing the tail of the one way lanyard thru the D (behind friction hitch) to back of belt. i was wondering while we are on friction hitches if youi use a friction hitch on lanyard; and if so, what modifications if any you make between lifeline friction hitch and the same utility on lanyard.

i used to use the microscender with that twisted clevis, and think this beats that.


Welcome aboard!
-KC

 

[rbtree]

Thanks for the pics, Jim..

I see the benefit that your setup provides with its excellent alignment.

But it certainly looks like I'd not be happy having to open the biner, then detach the eye, thus requiring two motions when recrotching, instead of one. Plus, you now have no weight on the line end to aid in recrotching. And for lifeline choking, you'd have to use a different biner. I visualize more disadvantages than advantages. Am I missing something?

Photo tip: Most digi cams seem unable to properly expose closeup flash. Try zooming out, using a small f/stop, or underexposing the flash output...if your camera has any of those functions. Failing that, just use natural light....stabilize the camera with a tripod or anything available.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i like a blue towel to show up colors best, but have problems with flash too. Found the mini tripods helpful and affordable.

 

[roachy]

sorry guys Im not much with a camera but thanks for the tips.
yes I use a hitch on my lanyard ,a distall with a twisted clevis.
rbtree you have some valid concerns thats whats great about this ,to each his own .the unclipping of the eye is no concern for me when recrotching I find it just as easy as taking a biner off my saddle but you are correct there is one more movement in that configuration there is another however that only requires one.the wieght issue puzzles me though a biner is not much wieght if you are adnanceing your line a good distance ,heck I still just use monkeys fist as I did in my first climb some habbits never die.

 

[murphy4trees]

Jon uses a fixie on his friction hitch set up too.... Works fine for him as he ties his hitch before ascending... I usually tie it in the tree.... but either way... is there a good reason for using the fixie rather than a micro pulley with swinging cheek plates?

 

[rbtree]

Some complain that the CMI can pinch the line when it is being side loaded. I've had little problems with that, and thus prefer the CMI over the Fixe as it takes up less room on the biner...maybe someday I'll try the cool trick of attaching one end of the friction hitch to the Fixe beckett. But the Fixe is cool, as with a 13 mm line like most 16 strand, it will not fall off the line, so is easier to work with.

 

[rbtree]

So, Jim, do you use an adjustable false crotch like an ART when working down a stem? I don't, (but may make my own soon) but even though I've been climbing for 30 years and working on spurs with only one flip line is old hat, (now not ANSI compliant) I do really like to choke my lifeline for added security on a smooth spar. Of course, this also works great for getting past down bulges and crooks, just leave a tail to retreive the choked line. A long sling works well, others use a midline knot in the lifeline, thus creating a tail.

 

[rbtree]

Originally posted by roachy
the wieght issue puzzles me though a biner is not much wieght if you are adnanceing your line a good distance ,heck I still just use monkeys fist as I did in my first climb some habbits never die.

I'm with ya there...but for short tosses, an aluminum biner does help a bit....for longer tosses, I too use a throwing knot, but a steel biner or shot pouch can be slick too.