Kickback with a Stihl 201T

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As stated above, thx for sharing your learnings.
I use the smallest Echo top handle aka climbing saw almost every day, mostly on the ground in heavy wooded lots for ladder fuel clearing,and trimming up trees.....I do a LOT of one handed cutting with it switching from right to left hand ( NOT recommended )....I highly suggest You 1) Always wear a plastic hard hat-helmet with integrated face shield / screen.. ....2) NEVER cut directly in front of Your face , just cut with it off to the side of Your face...3) make sure Your chain is " sharp" , an even moderately dull chain is a lot harder to use and can make you use to much effort and pressure to cut which can cause all sorts of issues....finally 4) don't cut blind, what I mean is don't just poke into a pile of limbs without being able to see what is on the back side / other side of what You are cutting.....cheers.
 
My big problem was the lack of knowledge of the things that could happen if I didn't do it right. Not sure if I would have thought about the kickback being so fast. Anyway glad you all got me thinking.
OMG the kickback is wicked fast with absolutely no reaction time. And the speed of the bar has to be Mach 10. All comments above about hand position, behavioral body posture to keep out of the arc of a kicked back bar are absolutely spot on. I think a face screen might help prevent some kickback injury, but I trust it only for wood chips flying. There is no PPE for kickback that I know of.
 
I use a top handle (usually a 201tc) with one hand for cutting smaller wood that I can lift up off the ground with my left hand to cut to firewood length. I always keep the cut off to the side. If the wood is light enough to pick up and move with one hand, I pull the wood to the right after each cut. If not, I move to the left after each cut.

I am also very cautious with the throttle and try to keep the bucking spikes into the wood when possible. I do make some one hand trimming cuts, but like previously noted, I wear a helmet with face shield and use maximum caution.
 
Been using a 192T for many years as a limbing/trimming saw - its way easier on my old back than my big saws. As others have said, you need to be aware of the kickback potential all the time. I use it one handed even though I know I should not..... I probably have more hours on that saw than any of my felling/bucking saws. Just be careful as you should be anyway when running any saw.
 
If you insist on using a climbing saw on the ground then I recommend you fit to the saw a bar with the smallest tip radius you can find (possible a carving bar)and include a safety chain, this will help to reduce the kickback potential.
 
If you insist on using a climbing saw on the ground then I recommend you fit to the saw a bar with the smallest tip radius you can find (possible a carving bar)and include a safety chain, this will help to reduce the kickback potential.
A 150T seems not to kick back much at all.
 
If you insist on using a climbing saw on the ground then I recommend you fit to the saw a bar with the smallest tip radius you can find (possible a carving bar)and include a safety chain, this will help to reduce the kickback potential.
Went with the rear-handle 201. It’s an awesome little saw. I would like the compact size of the 201T but decided against it.
 
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