Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
RTFM...
In any case, all drills will cut a "face oval" if drilled at an angle:greenchainsaw:
In any case, all drills will cut a "face oval" if drilled at an angle:greenchainsaw:
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Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos
- Thread starter bri
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biggenius29
Addicted to ArboristSite
I went to a dealer and was quoted $75. I just left it at that and figured for that I will mod it myself, and didnt bother asking other dealers. I will call another dealer tommorow.
Country1
ArboristSite Guru
Not much has been said about this mod?? I assume it's not as good as Lakeside's??? I would be a lot simpler to do... No screen, but the "slits" wouldn't be that prone to letting in debris. Has no one else done this?I bought a used one, ebay $15, used it to mod and put the new
one up for safe keeping.
No screen though.
If you should decide to drill out the existing port, you will still be able to use the screen. A little harder than just drilling holes, but you get to utilize the screen. I have done it both ways, and can't tell any difference in performance, even tho one muffler has the baffle plate inside, and the other one doesn't.
Can anyone tell me if the one w/o a baffle is an older model muffler, or just a different one?? Stihl has 3-4 different models listed for the 460.
JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
the new and improved 630 muffler mod.
first post with the new camera.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
the new and improved 630 muffler mod.first post with the new camera.
Looks nice!
JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
3/4 galvanized conduit. good eye. welded with a mig. then alot of grinding. i'm doing the 670 over again the same but with the bigger pipe. the original is crazy loud when you are bucking a big tree when the exhaust gets into the wood and bounces it back to ya. run half and half 108 race gas and 91 premium with lucas mix, smells gr8 but the loudness kills your ears even with plugs in. lol
ssiimmss
ArboristSite Lurker
at the beginning of this thread, it is stated that you shouldnt exceed 80-85% of the exhaust port diameter, when porting your muffler. does anyone take the time to measure the exhaust port and do the math or are ya'll just eye ballin it an making sure that your below the 100% mark?
JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
my 630 is definately just below the 100% mark but the 670 is about 115%
runs gr8 a little hard to idle buthas tons of power.
runs gr8 a little hard to idle buthas tons of power.
I would also like to know about this way. Looks very nice. How did you get the slits in the muffler?
Thin dremel tool cutoff wheel and a screwdriver to lift the slots open...
Ian
Ian
K9-Handler
ArboristSite Operative
Always. It's given me an opportunity to brush up on my basic geometry. :hmm3grin2orange:
You can't be exact, but if the 80% point comes in at .70, I'll round it down and use a pipe with 5/8" diameter (.625) ID rather than going up to a 3/4" (.750).
I may lose an imperceptible amount of power, but it better than going too far.
JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
some pics of the new 670 mod.
have a bit of grinding and blending left to do. then paint.
have a bit of grinding and blending left to do. then paint.
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rngrchad
Addicted to ArboristSite
some pics of the new 670 mod.
Oh my! My eardrums hurt just looking at that Jonsered. Gnarly muff mod man. I'll be she sounds like a 2stroke motocross bike!
JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
ya she's loud and pulls like a fr8 trane too. thanx
Always. It's given me an opportunity to brush up on my basic geometry. :hmm3grin2orange:
You can't be exact, but if the 80% point comes in at .70, I'll round it down and use a pipe with 5/8" diameter (.625) ID rather than going up to a 3/4" (.750).
I may lose an imperceptible amount of power, but it better than going too far.
according to my math 5/8 pipe will have a free area of .31 sq. in. if ID of the tube is .625 3/4 will be .442 sq in if ID is .750 so you would need two 5/8 pipes to get around 80% of the .70 port area which is .56
K9-Handler
ArboristSite Operative
Congratulations! You get a gold star for math!
But you missed my point.
I should have been clearer. When all your math is done, you decide your theoretical saw needs a pipe with a .70 ID to do your 80% job (big saw). Since no stock, off-the-shelf pipe has an ID of .70, then I would go with the .625 rather than the .750 pipe.
All I was advocating is to err on the low side rather than the high side.
The MS280 I just muffler-modded had all 54.7 ccs of displacement exhausting through a single .325 hole in the muffler! I'm surprised it didn't whistle!
Even opening the hole to 50% of the exhaust port would have made a huge improvement. For a work saw you can achieve great gains without bumping up against the high-side ceiling.
mickeyd
ArboristSite Operative
I cut a small rectangular hole in the muffler of my new MS290 and opened up the final exit just a little .I can hear and feel a slight difference. I am afraid to go any more till Im sure of how to tune the carb. the H is already at the stop. I have searched the site with out finding any details on how to remove the stops .can someone post some pics and a step by step instructions on how to do this
thanks Mick
thanks Mick
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Mick, others here do it differently than myself... But heating a small nail or screw (or anything small and metal), and melting the tabs off works pretty good. Take your time, and nothing will get melted that shouldn't be.
Like I said, others do it different.
