Just a few points -
The carburetor with plastic disc is the Zama (M1-M7), kits are available just about anywhere you look.
The Walbro carburetor is the MDC and kits are also readily available. The Walbro carburetors have a very feeble check valve and there were kits available to replace them but getting them apart to replace the little disc is more challenging that working on a Mini Mac. By the way, except for the Mini Mac 6 (the first release) all models have a removable starter so taking one apart is really a 15-20 job. Disconnecting and reconnecting the throttle is the greatest challenge.
The Zama has the plastic disc between the metering diaphragm and the metering lever, the Walbro has a metal tit riveted in place to bear on the metering lever. Neither had a fork like you find on the Walbro SDC and others. The gaskets and diaphragms are virtually interchangeable between the two, but the metering diaphragms are quite different so the parts will not interchange. Believe me, I have really, really tried to switch the MDC into the Zama and you can't make it work.
Always check the metering lever height before assembling the carburetor (flush with the base in the carburetor), a pressure test before reassembling the saw is always a good idea and can save a lot of grief.
The impulse signal comes from the crankcase through the insulator where the carburetor mounts so there is no additional impulse line. A damaged gasket could potentially block the port but in general it is a very reliable system. The plastic insulators help position the gasket and carburetor to make sure everything is properly aligned when you put it together.
The Mini Mac needs at least 100 PSI compression to run at all. 120 to 140 PSI will run better.
There is no fuel tank vent, evidently they expected the fuel would heat up enough and expand to avoid any excess vacuum issues.
The screen on the outside of the carburetor is the atmospheric vent to the metering diaphragm. Most carburetors have a small hole with no protection so it is not uncommon to find a lot of sawdust dust accumulated on the metering diaphragm; a bit less of an issue on the PM6 and Mini Mac saws with the screen.
Older models did not have the screen in the fuel tank, just a felt filter/wick. Old 2 stroke doesn't think much of the approach but it does provide a significant amount of filter area and also works to absorb any water that might be in the fuel. The only time it is every a problem is when the saw is left for a long time with fuel in the tank that evaporates and leaves a heavy coating of varnish in/on the filter media.
The o-ring in the oiler is an 022 (I think I remember correctly), never a bad idea to replace the o-ring if there is any question to minimize the possibility of bar oil leaking into the crankcase. If the automatic oil pump is badly worn, it may still leak into the crankcase producing a near hydro-lock condition when you try to start the saw. Easiest fix is to leave the oil tank mostly empty to minimize oil leaking into the crankcase. Also a good idea to make sure the oil pumps (manual and automatic) both work before assembling the saw. Work the piston in the automatic pump with your finger and you can watch the oil go down in the inlet (connects to the tank through the "T" fitting) and out the discharge hole. There is only one check valve in the system and it is internal in the automatic pump and is not serviceable. You can replace the manual oiler piston but they rarely fail.
It is also a good idea to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase to make sure there is no leaking seal. It is not uncommon for folks to use these in the grass or weeds so a few wraps around the PTO side crankshaft can take a seal out in a hurry.
At 2 In³ the engine is quite capable, but the handle design makes them somewhat awkward to use for an extended period, I find the little finger on my right hand gets very hot from "counter balancing" against the top of the case when sawing.
My latest Mini Mac project...
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The Eager Beaver 2.1 is a 300 Series saw, different animal altogether.
Mark