Check your inbox for a McCulloch service manual and a small Clymer manual
Late 80's McCulloch 2.0 CID Eager Beaver
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Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
I'm very late/new to this post. But, so far what I've learned about my minimac 6a 60012312 has been indispensible. I agree that removal of the trigger from the throttle linkage was the bain of the breakdown. Busted it!. i did find a relacement at chainsawr.com along with some other parts.
regarding reattaching the throttle linkage to the trigger... I stripped an inch from a thin-wired twist-tie and wrapped the bare wire once around the throttle linkage. Then I fed the rest of the thin-wired tie through the bolt opening located 1/2" to the right of the trigger slot in the top casting. When the wire is positioned where the throttle linkage makes the bend from the angle to the straight forward portion of the linkage and is pulled snug through the hole to the right, it lines up perfectly. When you reattache the trigger it is perfectly in line for your pliers to make the connection. Youn need only to pull the wire free and out of the hole. A thin enough wire will simply unwind
regarding reattaching the throttle linkage to the trigger... I stripped an inch from a thin-wired twist-tie and wrapped the bare wire once around the throttle linkage. Then I fed the rest of the thin-wired tie through the bolt opening located 1/2" to the right of the trigger slot in the top casting. When the wire is positioned where the throttle linkage makes the bend from the angle to the straight forward portion of the linkage and is pulled snug through the hole to the right, it lines up perfectly. When you reattache the trigger it is perfectly in line for your pliers to make the connection. Youn need only to pull the wire free and out of the hole. A thin enough wire will simply unwind
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
any ideas on how to get the fuel filteer out of the tank?
Looking from inside the tank is seems like a long square shape, but where it exits the tank at the bottom, it's round. Did they jam a square peg in a round hole?
I'm pretty sure I need to trim it to get and new clean surface... it's surely a long time unsued. I'm able to get it going pretty good at high rpm, but as soon as I release the trigger, shed dies.
Another issue I have is a lot of fluid (lightly brown in color) as I try to start it. It is exiting the muffler. I clear everything away and try to light the fluid. It doesn't burn. Co0uld this still be fuel/oil mix? If I start it witht he throttle all the way on, this doesn't happen.
Looking from inside the tank is seems like a long square shape, but where it exits the tank at the bottom, it's round. Did they jam a square peg in a round hole?
I'm pretty sure I need to trim it to get and new clean surface... it's surely a long time unsued. I'm able to get it going pretty good at high rpm, but as soon as I release the trigger, shed dies.
Another issue I have is a lot of fluid (lightly brown in color) as I try to start it. It is exiting the muffler. I clear everything away and try to light the fluid. It doesn't burn. Co0uld this still be fuel/oil mix? If I start it witht he throttle all the way on, this doesn't happen.
Square peg in a round hole, yes.
Most likely the automatic oil pump is leaking into the crankcase leaving bar oil behind. There is an o-ring that may need to be replaced.
Mark
Most likely the automatic oil pump is leaking into the crankcase leaving bar oil behind. There is an o-ring that may need to be replaced.
Mark
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
My fuel filter is in so tightly that I cannot drive it out back into the fuel tank. Nor can I pull it out of the tank through the fuel cap opening. If I am able to drive it back into the fuel tank through the outlet of the tank using a 1/2" dowel, how do I get it back into place into the tank?
My oil tank is completely empty. So, I am challenged to understand how any chain oil could be leaking into the crankcase. Even so, can you help me identify where this o-ring might be located? I will replace it next time I break it down again.
After the last breakdown and reassembly, I was able to get the engine started and it ran very well at high RPM. Once I release the throttle trigger, she died out just as it has done in the past. I did make adjustments to the idle screw on the carb. Advancing and retracting a few times hoping to release any gunk. I have already disassembled the carb. All gaskets in great shape. Soaked the carb (minus the gaskets and filters) in carb cleaner for 30 minutes. However, I did not remove any of the screws (hi, lo or idle). Any thoughts?
I am a bonafide newcomer to gas engines so all of this is new and challenging to me.
Thanks Mark.
My oil tank is completely empty. So, I am challenged to understand how any chain oil could be leaking into the crankcase. Even so, can you help me identify where this o-ring might be located? I will replace it next time I break it down again.
After the last breakdown and reassembly, I was able to get the engine started and it ran very well at high RPM. Once I release the throttle trigger, she died out just as it has done in the past. I did make adjustments to the idle screw on the carb. Advancing and retracting a few times hoping to release any gunk. I have already disassembled the carb. All gaskets in great shape. Soaked the carb (minus the gaskets and filters) in carb cleaner for 30 minutes. However, I did not remove any of the screws (hi, lo or idle). Any thoughts?
I am a bonafide newcomer to gas engines so all of this is new and challenging to me.
Thanks Mark.
I always remove the H and L screws when I soak a carb in carb cleaner. Don't forget to mark which one is which.
O-ring is item 12 in the attached file which breaks down the automatic oil pump on the front of the saw.
Mark
Mark
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like these little saws great to carry on the quad to clear trails, I have three mcculloch and two Montgomery wards relabeled macs. My problem is I keep on replacing the fuel line. Same as my 35 yo homey leaf blower.
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
This may sound ignorant on my part but, how could chain oil leak into the crankcase. I would think that these two systems are not connected in any way. Lube goes to the bar/chain... but shouldn't be able to find it's way into the engine/crankcase.
Has to do with the design of the oil pump. Pressure pulses from the crankcase drive a rigid diaphragm that moves the piston in the pump, any wear in either of these will let oil get back into the crankcase, especially when the saw is parked hot which puts the oil tank under pressure and thins out the oil. I loosen the oil cap after use and store the saw with the bar pointing down.
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
would this also be the case with the manual oiler system that I have on my saw- 60012312 model?
If the saw is truly manual only, there is no hole in the crankcase for the impulse signal that operates the pump so there should be no path for bar oil to get into the crankcase. If the saw has an automatic oil pump the path will be there and in some cases using the manual pump will actually force bar oil back through the automatic pump directly into the crankcase.
Mark
Mark
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
Mostly put back together. Without bar and chain, this engine runs like a dream. UNTIL the throttle trigger is released. Then it dies out every time. I made a few turns in and out of the ide screw but this has no effect. I readjusted the hi and lo screws to fully closed and turned back 3/4 turn for both as this was stated in the mini mac 6 and 6a general service information document that I received from you. I was able to hold the throttle trigger just enough to keep it going and made adjustments to the lo screw. No dice either way. Any more advice?
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
Regarding the fuel filter. It is stiff enough that I can't get it to move to replace it or to cut off the end of it. Is this an issue. If I were able to get it out, is there an alternative material that I could use and scrap the old filter? When I fill the tank when it's disassembled from the saw, I get a flow of a few small drops per second. Seems low. Could the saw be getting enough fuel when the throttle is depressed but not enough when it's in idle from this fuel filter situation? If this is not my fix, I'll break it down again and soak the carb again with the idle, hi and lo screws removed. Any other suggestions once she's broken down again?
The manual oiler is there just to give more oil than the auto oiler provides, pretty sure you have an auto oiler on that saw.
The only way I could get the filter out was to make sure it was as soft as possible by letting it soak in fuel then pressing it out back into the tank. Cut the front squished part off and stick it back in or you could replace it with any felt material. Up here in snow country the felt liner from snowmobile boots works, or any arts shop sells sheets of felt that can be rolled up into a cigar and used.
Don't treat factory setting for the carb screws as gospel, sounds like you have everything too lean. Back the "L" idle mix screw out 1 and 1/2 turns and set the idle speed screw so that the saw is running fast enough for the chain to be moving, then start turning in the "L" to get the fastest steady running (keep adjusting the idle speed as well so that the chain is just moving). Once you get to this point, back the "L" screw out until the chain stops moving and you should be real close to optimum. Finding the sweet spot for the "H" screw is another issue and should be done when you are ready to cut some wood.
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
I have developed a crack in the fuel tank. Does anyone know all the model numbers of these small mccollugh chainsaws that would have a fuel tank to fit mine? Mine is 600-12312 - minimac 6/6a. I have seen a few on ebay but want to be sure it will fit. One says it's for a mccullogh 120 ande looks clean. Would it fit?
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
And, does anyone have a recommendation as to what I can use for a new fuel filter. I hesitate using felt from a craft store for fear of it shedding fibers and thus clogging up the carb. Are there "foam" alternatives that I can use? I wouldn't be looking forward to breaking down over and over to clean the carb.
All of the Mini Mac fuel/oil tanks are interchangeable, and find an OEM fuel filter rather than messing around with something experimental.
Mark
Mark
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
since it's broken down again, is it worth it to buy a rebuild kit for the carb? The parts I took apart that would be replaced look absolutely fine as is. Is there something I can see with the naked eye that would warrant a rebuild of the m7?
Dave Byron
Love Sawdust
I got my fuel filter out buy driving it back into the fuel tank via the outlet port. Any ideas how I get it back in? It seems in good shape. Plenty pliable. I figured I'd trim off the round end and shove it back in through the outlet port that I pulled it out of. I can't see how you could drive it back in via the tank and try to push it all the way to the end of the outlet port. Still interested in advice on a carb rebuild or not.
