Learning How to Use a Chainsaw

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JnDeere

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Hello,
I've been involved carpentry and woodworking since I was a little kid but I have never used a chainsaw. I know some of these questions will look silly to you guys, but please don't laugh. How can I learn how to use a chainsaw without seriously injuring myself? My goal is to learn how to cut bowl blanks and eventually get into chainsaw milling. I am really worried if I just pick up a chainsaw that I'll screw something up and the bar will come flying back at me or I the chain is going to break. So how does someone who is mechanically inclined but nonetheless ignorant about these machines learn their safe operation? What should I do?
 
Hey there JN Deere, just the fact that you are asking says a lot. It’s the ones the “ know how “ right off the bat who get hurt. Do you know anybody with a saw that can show you?? Watching the above mentioned videos will help also. I think you are on the right path. It’d be nice if you could help a fellow do some limbing and general sawing to get the feel of things. I’d stay away from trying to fell any large trees ( especially standing “ dead “ ones )
KYBOB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are class you can take. I have a chainsaw operator ticket. I can limb and buck but cannot fall anything over 6 inches at the butt. As per wbc regulations. I can fall a tree on my own time not to bad I might add
 
Welcome to A.S!

Simple but difficult answer. It is hard for an individual to find good chainsaw safety training, in my experience, due to liability concerns. I know some established dealers who will only teach you how to start a saw. There are professional trainers who will not work with homeowners; only people employed in the industry.

Lots of videos on line, but some are dangerous. The BC videos, mentioned above, are pretty advanced. STIHL and Husqvarna ones are pretty good.

One way, is to find volunteer groups who train their members: some of these folks do trail maintenance, disaster response, wildlife habitat work, or similar projects. Or find someone you trust to mentor you.

There is a thread on good training materials: I will try to post a link.

Philbert
 
If you’ve been woodworking and building for any length of time, you know the dangers of certain tools. Like how a piece of wood can fly out of a table saw or a nailer finds a knot and spits a nail. Nobody can teach you the all the dangers of any tool. It takes some common sense and a desire to not be ignorant about safety. Literature on chainsaw safety is easy to find, and videos online will help, but you really need to find a saw to borrow (good luck) or buy one (not the cheapest) and start cutting. Go slow and get a feel for how everything reacts using construction scrap that secured if you don’t have any down trees. Your going to pinch a bar, rock a chain, or any number of other issues, it’s all part of learning.

Keep the spiny part from touching stuff you don’t want cut!!
 
Terry Hale just released a video about chainsaws for "single ladies". I didn't watch all of it (even at 1.25x it's long) but it's great basic info for beginners. Actually, all of his videos are pretty great.
 
Hello,
I've been involved carpentry and woodworking since I was a little kid but I have never used a chainsaw. I know some of these questions will look silly to you guys, but please don't laugh. How can I learn how to use a chainsaw without seriously injuring myself? My goal is to learn how to cut bowl blanks and eventually get into chainsaw milling. I am really worried if I just pick up a chainsaw that I'll screw something up and the bar will come flying back at me or I the chain is going to break. So how does someone who is mechanically inclined but nonetheless ignorant about these machines learn their safe operation? What should I do?
You're in luck-there's a large variety of videos from reputable sources online. Some are intended to give a quick overview while others go into a great deal of detail and are intended for more comprehensive training purposes.

Trust that anything put out by a major and reputable chainsaw company such as Stihl and Husqvarna, or an established safety/forestry group will contain wise advice. From what I've seen it's best to look towards multiple sources as they will all emphasize different areas to different degrees and contain variations of the same advice.

Since you're a woodworker you might enjoy this video from This Old House ;)

Almost all new saws from Husqvarna, Stihl or Echo will come with a comprehensive user guide on proper usage, care and maintenance. You can look though them online at their websites if you're curious about any particular model.

Most chainsaw accidents won't come from making minor mistakes, but rather flat out ignoring basic proper safety procedures for saw usage. If you wear the proper protective equipment (ear and eye protection, gloves, chaps/saw pants, etc), maintain your saw as instructed and use the recommended procedures for cutting- an accident is very unlikely.

Lastly, when it comes to picking a first saw I would suggest something in the 40-50cc range that weighs less than 12 pounds and has a bar no longer than 18". Saws in this range can do a lot, but are easy to handle and start. The big three brands in the US are Stihl (German), Husqvarna (Swedish) and Echo (Japanese).

Good luck!
 
Since you mention milling, that by nature calls for a big saw. Start small. Get something like a Stihl MS 170. They go on sale for $159. Watch the videos and use the little saw around your yard. You’ll get used to it fast. Always keep it sharp. If you just nick the ground you will dull it. If it’s dull, you have to push on it hard. If you are pushing hard, when bar breaks through the cut, you will be pushing and off balance, and can stumble or fall. Staying stable is paramount. A friend wanted to get into milling. I let him try my 660 with a 36” bar. Standing in the middle of my paved flat driveway. He started the saw and blipped the trigger. The torque and rise of the bar scared him to death. He was used to running firewood saws with 18-20” bars. But the 36” bar moved much more than he expected.

When milling, always use guide rails that are 18”-24” longer than your log on both ends. It makes a better cut. Much more important, it gives you a stable entry and exit ramp. If you don’t have that exit ramp, when the saw clears the log it just falls. Use the guide rails on every slab, not just the first one.

I’m into minor wood working, I have hundreds of 1X6 Oak fence boards 30 plus years old. I make display boards for model trains, Blue Bird boxes, and Oak floor boards for show trucks. Most of the fence boards started at 16’. When going to my storage area to pic boards my saw of choice is the little MS 170. You will always have a use for a small saw, then work your way up.
 
Start with a small cheap electric saw. You can get a feel for it without the noise, heat, weight or power. Just don’t forget the PPE.
 
Start with an excellent pro-saw about 50-60cc, not a POS. Perhaps smaller if you'll be using it for carpentry. You'll thank me later.
you are an experienced tool guy, you'll be fine
most important thing to know is kick-back, like a circular saw or a tablesaw. Know the danger zones.

most of the random info on youtube or whatever is utter rubbish put up by misguided amateurs. The "this old house" vid is ok-ish, but DON'T think you can sharpen a chain satisfactorily with one of those gizmos! Wtf?

learn how to sharpen your chain. FREEHAND. It's not hard. If you can sharpen a knife or a chisel or a plane iron you can sharpen a saw chain. Again, most of the "sharpeners" on youtube haven't a clue.

Buckin' Billy Ray will teach you lots, for one guy that knows what he is doing.

you have to find the right resources. Worksafe BC and Buckin' Billy are two.

some of the Stihl and Husky stuff is ok

the manual that comes with the saw is usually excellent wrt safety and cutting technique. Read it carefully.
 
Pay particular attention to the tip of the bar...if you touch the tip of the bar, especially the part from 12 o'clock to 9 o'clock, you're asking to get a kickback in your face. Also watch your calves and ankles ... lots of people get cut there. I would recommend a face shield and chaps... as with most things (like table saws), don't stand behind the blade...a lot should be common sense to you if you're accustomed to using woodworking and carpentry tools (keep chain sharp, favor full throttle over part throttle, think about where workpieces and saw will go when the machine tries to avoid doing work, etc.)...
 
Thanks to everyone for the helpful responses. This was a lot more help and information than I expected.

I still have a few questions:

1. What is the safest "first cut" to make?
2. What should I expect the cut to "feel like" when the chain is cutting through the wood?
3. How much pressure should I put on the bar when making a cut?

As far as first saws, I'm thinking about a Makita/Dolmar. They're being discounted heavily by a local dealer
who is closing up shop.
 
A bucking cut with the bottom of the bar starting from the top side with a very light cantilever on the log

the saw will pull away from you, into the cut

none

makita ea4300 (Dolmar 421)
 
Seeing that you are experienced in wood working, I would also suggest that you consider a Professional Grade saw, you would appreciate the better build and quality, and would likely keep the saw for Many Years

I know Husqvarna’s, so my recommendation would be the 550XP, with an 18” Bar, or the 543XP with a 16” Bar. The 545, or 555 would also be Good choices with a Magnesium crankcase

For firewood cutting a 50cc/70cc is a popular “2 Saw Plan” such as a 550XP and either a 372XP or 572XP

If you wanted to stick with a 2 Saw Plan and try milling, the 550XP and a 395XP would be a Good combination

If you wanted to step up to a 3 Saw Plan, my recommendation would be 550XP, 372XP/572XP and a 3120XP for milling. Dave “thechainsawguy” here on AS, has the 3120XP for sale for $1399 SHIPPED, NIB, PHO. The 3120XP is an Excellent choice for Milling, and Dave’s price is only a couple hundred dollars more than a 395XP, but is a jump from 94cc to 119cc, which is a Lot of cc’s for that price difference. Dave is a Reputable Seller that I and several other AS members have bought from without any problems, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy from Dave again

Just be forewarned, CAD (Chainsaw Addiction Disorder) can be Very Contagious, especially if you stick around here for long, and CSMAD(Chain Saw Milling Addiction Disorder) is everything that CAD is, but MORE
D0E8086B-E7F8-4C8D-8D4C-AC850000E248.jpeg0E3CC356-6DCF-4E1A-8F42-D950FC0A1A00.jpeg

Doug
 
Just beware of experts. If a video begins with the instructor drop starting the saw, find another instructor/video.
A chain saw shares some reactive forces that a circular saw does.
So you'll be familiar, somewhat.
Check Stihls website. A lot of good safe info.
Maybe see if you can rent an electric from a home center.
That'll give you a primer.
 
The original post was about learning safety and technique, but I see a lot of people recommending their favorite saw brand or model now.

A person needs to understand saw operation, safety, cutting techniques, classes of saws (displacement and intended purpose) and their most realistic actual needs before they start running to the store with a specific model in mind. Otherwise, buyers remorse is sure to come into play in a short amount of time.

Throwing out model numbers and specific saws to someone who has never used a chainsaw is like someone asking how they can learn to fly a plane and replying "You need to get a 2003 Cessna 172 with a glass cockpit and less than 500 hours." It's all gibberish at this point if you're not a saw enthusiast or understand saw size classes and classes of saw quality.

To the original poster-learn, observe and read before you run off and buy anything. Understand saw usage, safety and basics and then understand what saw would be used for different types of applications.

Chainsaws aren't very universal in application. Some are intended to be small and light for branch removal and working in trees, some are designed for cutting up logs for firewood or cutting down smaller trees, some are designed for major tree removal in a forest environment. As some have mentioned-a saw used for milling will likely be different then a saw used for small tree and branch work around the house.

I come from the school of though that people are best served by learning how to drive in a family sedan rather than a Corvette, but opinions will vary.
 
Start off with proper PPE! Chaps, steel toe boots (not composite!), gloves, hearing and eye protection are a minimum. Husky makes good inexpensive chainsaw helmets with built in ear muffs and face guard. The helmet is good when working in the woods as stuff falls from trees.

"To Fell a Tree" by Jeff Jepson is a great book on tree falling and everything around it. It's well written and illustrated.
Terry Hale's videos are good (as mentioned already). Husqvarna has good introductory videos too. Stihl saw owners manuals have many pages on chainsaw operation.
 
Maybe see if you can rent an electric from a home center.
Good idea. The Home Depot rental locations rent a few sizes of Makita (Dolmar) gas and electric chainsaws, as do a number of equipment rental places. That would be a good way to get a feel for saw size and operation, once you have some idea about the safety stuff.

"To Fell a Tree" by Jeff Jepson is a great book
Agreed. Also:
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf06672805/pdf06672805dpi300.pdf
But neither is a substitute for someone standing beside you, who can instruct and coach. Check around for regional bowl turner clubs, or post in the milling thread looking for someone in your general area who might be able to offer tips on several things you are interested in.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/milling-saw-mills.62/
Philbert
 

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