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Don't you see his two feet sticking out of the chipper?
If not, where's the third ground man?
You gotta do head counts at the end of every job Butch!

9440.jpg
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
MB said something about the hat not being a hard hat. So to answer your question Guy, no.
If it walks like a duck...If it's a hard hat that's slightly perforated, it's still a hard hat, and PPE is not totally lacking, thus thou hyperbolized.
Did you notice the groundmanstick both arms straight out in front of you and put them into the chipper chute.
no I didn't, but there is the one pic where all you can see is the guy's legs behind the chute, so it's a good guess that body parts are in the space where the mfr says not to.
Gosh I would never do such a thing!
Mine's so slow it's less of a risk, but still would be a tisk tisk! I also check the lugs each and every time I move the chipper, per mfr specs:p
I don't mean to be critical, it's just that the day isn't complete for me until I give MB a hard time.
Guess mine's not until I do you, and MB--why'd the tree come down? And erik that was a fun vid clip, but why'd that tree come down?
Guess I'll post a poll instead of hoping for those trivial facts here.
 
Guy:
"If it walks like a duck...If it's a hard hat that's slightly perforated, it's still a hard hat, and PPE is not totally lacking, thus thou hyperbolized."


From osha.gov:

"Modifying the hard hat by drilling holes or painting should not occur unless in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
Bump caps do not meet hard hat requirements. "
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
From osha.gov:

[b painting should not occur unless in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
[/B]
So a drop of paint makes it something other than PPE? There is good sense in following some safety standards, and a good idea to follow ANSI so the public knows what the industry expects from itself, but there is fanatic obsession with fault-finding "I'm safer than you":p in rigidly adhering to nonsense such as this.

If I follow UK govt micromanagement on safety etc., am I a better arborist?

How is paint going to make the wearer less safe? If the climber in the pic rbtree attached wore a paint-free brain bucket, will he be OK?:eek:
 
Originally posted by treehugger01
Family Friends and 8 X 10's
Thats what life is all about!
Nice montage NE what camera you folks useing

Vivitar Vivi-cam 625 (2.1mP) & 128mb SD (not top o the line, but pretty good & on sale for a song)

ULead Photo-Impact XL, Irfanview, & ULead GIF Animator 5.2

It's funny... the software cost me more than the camera did, but it works better than the crappy freebie stuff they come with.
 
Hey, MB posted the pictures. Don't you think he would like some feedback? He doesn't seem like the type who just wants gratuitous complements.
His crane looks like it's in the best spot, he's taking nice sized pieces, I'm sure his saw is sharp. The only glaring problem is lack of some basic safety gear.
Osha and ansi don't want Butch to wear a bump cap because it doesn't work as well as a real hard hat. In this industry it could save his life.
Not painting a hard hat isn't the worst rule, your supposed to throw them away once they are 2 years old (or is it 5?), becuse of solar degradation or something.
In all fairness, you want the hard hat to work up to specification. If you're putting chemicals on them and drilling holes, how can you be sure what kind of impact the hat will take?
If I come to work on a crew who's looking like Butch's, I pull the tree service owner to the side and tell him to look and think how his crew's image is percieved by the customer. No owner wants his crew to look bad. Most times that will initiate change.
 
Guy,

That was one of 8 pines I removed. 4 of the 8 had varying degrees of heart-rot, but the main reasons were:

Lack of a lawn

Trees too big for the landscape

Customer didn't like them


We'll be back in the spring to do some soil work, and then plant some specimens better suited to the location.

The customer wants a Japanese Maple definitely- the others we've yet to decide on.

I'm just happy that trees will be put back where trees once stood.
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas

If I come to work on a crew who's looking like Butch's, I pull the tree service owner to the side and tell him to look and think how his crew's image is percieved by the customer.



Yeah, the tree guys down here just love suggestions like that. You outta come down here strictly as an advisor, you'ld go over real good - probably get rich!

Mike, ya gotta get it in yur head - thats NOT my 'crew'. I have no 'crew'. Those guys are there when I arrive and they are there when I leave.

My crew would look more like this...


Studded1.JPG
 
just curious MB. What kind on knot do you use for peices that large.
Actually, what knot(s) do you like to use when lowering?
 
No knot at all, its a tubular sling.

Sometimes with a clevis, sometimes not.

But if I had to use a knot, it would be the only knot any climber should ever use to girth hitch a load, a running bowline.
 
typical lazy southern tree svc.......calling in a crane so the ground crew doesn't have to drag brush and hump wood.
 
MB.
"true dat" about the RBL.
I was just curious mainly about the rig. Thanks, and by the way nice pics.
 
Originally posted by MasterBlaster
No knot at all, its a tubular sling...

But if I had to use a knot, it would be the only knot any climber should ever use to girth hitch a load, a running bowline.

i'd modify that to a half hitch running bowline; kind like the half hitch before the eye of the loosely braided timber hitch to make a killick (some ben known to say Kelleg Hitch). This drags spars straighter on the ground, and i suspect similar charachteristichs in air, especially lifting vertical, bottom heavy spars. My buddy Stretch thinks that there is something stabilizing in the length of the tensioned line against the spar running from the half hitch to the bowline. It does seem to have a smoother motion like that to me when the distance between half hitch and choking eye at end of line (be it bowline or tim-bear hitch) is longer; that tensioned line pressing against the spar might just do something, it is force, ran an extra distance.

In addition i think with preceding half is more secure, by grabbing it's host /prey(the load) 2x, gaining an extra choking grip from the added choking half hitch that takes the load first, any force after that (which will be lessened), powers the bowline choking ring closed around the prey. In addition, each choking ring should be scheduled to catch/be dogged by imperfections in cylinder, the choke ring standing between the forces of the C.o.B. and the imperfection/stop, or i cuts me'own positive mechnical stop(s). That also makes it less likely to be tempted to choke the line tight down to the spar on large stuff, whereby that superloads that part of the line by leveraging it, a teepee in the line is best at the choking rings.

Also, alike Sherrill's longer eyesplice strategy, keeps the main load off the 'joint' of the knot in the line, making more secure, especially if knot is reused, and half hitch can randomly be placed so that the main load never bends line the sharpest at the same exact location every load, making for longer rope life etc.
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by TheTreeSpyder
i'd modify that to a half hitch running bowline; kind like the half hitch before the eye of the loosely braided timber hitch to make a killick ]


That's how I was taught to use it on heavy stuff, to add grip and make the bowline easier to untie.

Been using the clove hitch more often lately, especially when lowering multiple branches.
 

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