MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I thought the groundman was just holding the rope outta the way while the underbed was being cut.
Sideways pull?
Sideways pull?
Lets get this party started...
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Right MB, sideways pull from face aim only makes sense if you are counteracting side lean.
Well i thought line was being held out of the way, and picture angle exagerated that, so isolated my point by cropping, showing what i thought next logical move was; using the setup.
RB, The angle of line pull thing; i've had this idea on that rattling around inside i ain't got out yet; think i bounced it off Daniel once.....
If folding to 12 oclock forward; and lean to 11:30 of 500#. To match/balance pull set line at same height and pull to 12:30 with equal force; for will take more force to puill to 12, less force to pull to pull to 2o'clock to correct to balance at 12.
Part of this, can be seen like a bent line, trying to pull it straight is very ineefficient against any sidepull at close to 180 flat/almost home. The lean becomes high leveraged force; because of the angle of pull against the almost straight strraightened to target tree.(?) If it wass all a rope...
The most leveraged position of pulling controll, will be on the axis of the lean; in the opposite direction of the lean (where we try to place hinge fiber more towards in tapered hinge.).
Oooooooooops wait; enter tapered hinge; now the forward pull 'ricochets'/is rebounded off/through the leverage machine. Perhaps now i wish to pull straight forward, 'bounce' that force thru the leverge and let that work. If now i go to the side to correct, i give correction, but not multiplied thru the hinge(?). For any correction i give, unloads the hinge that much.
So in untrusty, too thin, etc. control wood, perhaps pull off center of target; not depending on hinge so much.
But; in a good leveraging hinge; pull straight and let hinge work for you(?). This effect would also work in a more common strip hinge of enough size to assimilate effectively by the force of the pulls this leveraging, but the more leveraged tapered would be better IMLHO.
Been wanting to get that one out fer a while...
Orrrr something like that........
:alien:
RB, The angle of line pull thing; i've had this idea on that rattling around inside i ain't got out yet; think i bounced it off Daniel once.....
If folding to 12 oclock forward; and lean to 11:30 of 500#. To match/balance pull set line at same height and pull to 12:30 with equal force; for will take more force to puill to 12, less force to pull to pull to 2o'clock to correct to balance at 12.
Part of this, can be seen like a bent line, trying to pull it straight is very ineefficient against any sidepull at close to 180 flat/almost home. The lean becomes high leveraged force; because of the angle of pull against the almost straight strraightened to target tree.(?) If it wass all a rope...
The most leveraged position of pulling controll, will be on the axis of the lean; in the opposite direction of the lean (where we try to place hinge fiber more towards in tapered hinge.).
Oooooooooops wait; enter tapered hinge; now the forward pull 'ricochets'/is rebounded off/through the leverage machine. Perhaps now i wish to pull straight forward, 'bounce' that force thru the leverge and let that work. If now i go to the side to correct, i give correction, but not multiplied thru the hinge(?). For any correction i give, unloads the hinge that much.
So in untrusty, too thin, etc. control wood, perhaps pull off center of target; not depending on hinge so much.
But; in a good leveraging hinge; pull straight and let hinge work for you(?). This effect would also work in a more common strip hinge of enough size to assimilate effectively by the force of the pulls this leveraging, but the more leveraged tapered would be better IMLHO.
Been wanting to get that one out fer a while...
Orrrr something like that........
:alien:
Last edited:
I agree with all of that.
Said he, for once a man of few words, who'd never ridicule the master of many, 'cept in that other thread..
Ahhhh, I just found a pair of CMI Ultracenders for $95, free shipping.... I'll need them to go with my new GLeasy bars which are soon on their way from Chico from Greg Liu, in part trade for that 200 feet of pretty dubble brade I sent him. The bars are cheaper than Mar-Bars..easier to use, and only require 2 CMI's!!
the gear junkie
Said he, for once a man of few words, who'd never ridicule the master of many, 'cept in that other thread..
Ahhhh, I just found a pair of CMI Ultracenders for $95, free shipping.... I'll need them to go with my new GLeasy bars which are soon on their way from Chico from Greg Liu, in part trade for that 200 feet of pretty dubble brade I sent him. The bars are cheaper than Mar-Bars..easier to use, and only require 2 CMI's!!
the gear junkie
OMG, now i need a fix............
MM,
I wanted to notch it to the left and it would have cleared everything. The boss figured notch it where I did and leave a bunch of holding wood on the right to draw it over. I knew it wouldn't work but I did what I was told. Normally for the residential season I have a groundman that keeps his mouth shut and lets me do my thing. Now that the boss is on the ground I am stuck with hearing "lets do it this way" from somebody who doesn't know his a$$ from a hole in the ground. I have a line on some construction work for a local union which is looking pretty good. I love tree work but having some moron on the ground telling me what to do is leaving a terrible taste in my mouth. I have nothing but gratitude for any feedback that I get here even if it exposes my faults. Visiting this site has really changed the way I look at trees. Thanks to everyone for the input.
Maybe I'm half stupid but does anybody else have trouble comprehending what Tree Spyder says? This guy is just too frigging smart. Hey Tree Spyder, write some books on treework and you'll probably never have to pick up a saw again.
I wanted to notch it to the left and it would have cleared everything. The boss figured notch it where I did and leave a bunch of holding wood on the right to draw it over. I knew it wouldn't work but I did what I was told. Normally for the residential season I have a groundman that keeps his mouth shut and lets me do my thing. Now that the boss is on the ground I am stuck with hearing "lets do it this way" from somebody who doesn't know his a$$ from a hole in the ground. I have a line on some construction work for a local union which is looking pretty good. I love tree work but having some moron on the ground telling me what to do is leaving a terrible taste in my mouth. I have nothing but gratitude for any feedback that I get here even if it exposes my faults. Visiting this site has really changed the way I look at trees. Thanks to everyone for the input.
Maybe I'm half stupid but does anybody else have trouble comprehending what Tree Spyder says? This guy is just too frigging smart. Hey Tree Spyder, write some books on treework and you'll probably never have to pick up a saw again.
How can i sell;
what i can't give away hear?
Some of the things named; more or familiar with, i just try to give handle to name, sort and call out a specific power with; as commanding a dog; by know it's exact name and how it respnds to your inflection.
some of the things i/we have been using fer years, internally figured and followed, helps to finally lay it all out on paper for that aspect/look to help see clearer.
"There is nothing to writing; just sit down at a typewriter and cut a vein"
Fergit who said that, but in spilling my gutz here; have found it to be true.
Any specific questions?
Thanx.
edit Daniel and OR have both kept me going behind the lines some fer quite a lil time now; ..........so ya can blame them!
what i can't give away hear?
Some of the things named; more or familiar with, i just try to give handle to name, sort and call out a specific power with; as commanding a dog; by know it's exact name and how it respnds to your inflection.
some of the things i/we have been using fer years, internally figured and followed, helps to finally lay it all out on paper for that aspect/look to help see clearer.
"There is nothing to writing; just sit down at a typewriter and cut a vein"
Fergit who said that, but in spilling my gutz here; have found it to be true.
Any specific questions?
Thanx.
edit Daniel and OR have both kept me going behind the lines some fer quite a lil time now; ..........so ya can blame them!
Nickrosis
Manned by Boderators
You can keep trying. A lil re-packaging may be needed for the outside, though. You enjoy writing, and you enjoy writing in a unique way. Just keep using periods and other punctuation and people will continue to follow your thoughts.
Punktuation isn't jest fer college kidz anymore?!!
So, i got to be like in school? (belive me ya don't want that!)
i guess, softly that is the path i'm taking Nick. Trying to build s-kills in expression; and i guess that pesky, dang comma/period stuff etc.
So, y'all back in school wit'me; your my lab rats i try it on!
Thanx,
-KC
So, i got to be like in school? (belive me ya don't want that!)
i guess, softly that is the path i'm taking Nick. Trying to build s-kills in expression; and i guess that pesky, dang comma/period stuff etc.
So, y'all back in school wit'me; your my lab rats i try it on!
Thanx,
-KC
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
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This sounds like fun to me.
I'd have said something like, "OK, I'll do it your way, but it's going to hit the Ash."
Then when it does, laugh at him and tell him how stupid he is for not listening. If he fires you, there has to be better guys to work for, even in Kanada, LOL.
The notch dictates which way the tree falls, holding wood can compensate for lean, but it's not going to change the angle it falls, as you found out.
The hinge and Face machines are so automatically self correcting; that they do try to feed into the gunned sighting of the hinge.
The system of pulls and pushes adjusts to the Off Target side pulls of lean etc., by using the off balance as the empowermeant of the adjsutment that is made by the pull on the hinge, and the slap of the face to adjsut the off balance itself. The force runs in a circle against itself; to try to balance. Balance to a target is the first thing it must do before moving, for it will move in a straight line unimpeded, therefore not in more than one direction, therefore must balance to that direction. If you don't balance with the passive adjustments, you can end up adding/sweating active force adjustments of line pull and wedge to replace, what you already have; for the balance must be made. If moving a huge upright freezer that is off balance to the side of travel (offside lean),and could not tip it's cart (stump), if you didn't tie down the side against the off balance across the cart (hinge) ; to move forward, you would have to fight physically the offbalance with muscle (active) cuz ya din't use the passive restraint of the tie down. If you had seperate tie downs, the tiedowns on the off balance side would help stabilize, but hardly get used, cuz the thing wasn't going to fall agianst it's 'lean'
The more lean to the side, the more the hinge pulls from the opposite side, the harder the face right , directly under lean will push back across to the other side. These are passive force adjsuters, the pull or push to match the force put into them, pull 100# hinge pulls back 100#, pull 500#......
That being said; i think that sometimes; you have to give Nature more tools/power to perform those functions; like more leveraged fiber; but still deliver square to face.
i speak again of the tapered/triangle hinge; and not so much adding it to a situation, but not taking away the rear most of it's tail, (and making a strip hinge). i say not taking away, because the pattern of support in the stump against the lean, more assimulates the tapered hinge, than the strip hinge. So in a strip hinge you are cutting away the support actually in use against the sidelean; you are not adding something by making a tapered hinge.
You are jsut leaving Nature with more of the tools to steer, and not taking that away, and then replacing it with line pull and wedge push.
Look at the lean as a forward force (to target) and a side pull force (perpendicular to previous) each of so much value; counter balance of the side pull, and allow the forward pull.
The lean forward is the power you use, and is finite; use it wisely like it was line pull you were sweating on yourself; it bends over fibers, that the sidepull tests.
Orrrrrrrrrrr something like that!
:alien:
The system of pulls and pushes adjusts to the Off Target side pulls of lean etc., by using the off balance as the empowermeant of the adjsutment that is made by the pull on the hinge, and the slap of the face to adjsut the off balance itself. The force runs in a circle against itself; to try to balance. Balance to a target is the first thing it must do before moving, for it will move in a straight line unimpeded, therefore not in more than one direction, therefore must balance to that direction. If you don't balance with the passive adjustments, you can end up adding/sweating active force adjustments of line pull and wedge to replace, what you already have; for the balance must be made. If moving a huge upright freezer that is off balance to the side of travel (offside lean),and could not tip it's cart (stump), if you didn't tie down the side against the off balance across the cart (hinge) ; to move forward, you would have to fight physically the offbalance with muscle (active) cuz ya din't use the passive restraint of the tie down. If you had seperate tie downs, the tiedowns on the off balance side would help stabilize, but hardly get used, cuz the thing wasn't going to fall agianst it's 'lean'
The more lean to the side, the more the hinge pulls from the opposite side, the harder the face right , directly under lean will push back across to the other side. These are passive force adjsuters, the pull or push to match the force put into them, pull 100# hinge pulls back 100#, pull 500#......
That being said; i think that sometimes; you have to give Nature more tools/power to perform those functions; like more leveraged fiber; but still deliver square to face.
i speak again of the tapered/triangle hinge; and not so much adding it to a situation, but not taking away the rear most of it's tail, (and making a strip hinge). i say not taking away, because the pattern of support in the stump against the lean, more assimulates the tapered hinge, than the strip hinge. So in a strip hinge you are cutting away the support actually in use against the sidelean; you are not adding something by making a tapered hinge.
You are jsut leaving Nature with more of the tools to steer, and not taking that away, and then replacing it with line pull and wedge push.
Look at the lean as a forward force (to target) and a side pull force (perpendicular to previous) each of so much value; counter balance of the side pull, and allow the forward pull.
The lean forward is the power you use, and is finite; use it wisely like it was line pull you were sweating on yourself; it bends over fibers, that the sidepull tests.
Orrrrrrrrrrr something like that!
:alien:
new treeman
ArboristSite Lurker
lines
dont u just love power lines good work!!
dont u just love power lines good work!!
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Here's a beaut I smoked today!
How would ya'll done it? :alien:
How would ya'll done it? :alien:
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I couldn't climb it, as you can see.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Set-up took forever.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
But soon the party was starting!!!!
errr, that pic might be a 'lil outta sync!
errr, that pic might be a 'lil outta sync!
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