Let's see your mills

[thechknhwk]

Rob, I get jealous feelings when I see your loader...

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It's been a great tractor/loader that i've had a long time, i'm glad i bought it.

Rob

 

[teamgreen]

What's the little track machine in the back? I have a friend with an old Oliver track loader and my BIL has an old JD Lindeman dozer. Your machine looks a little bigger than theirs, Joe.

The old crawler in the back is a oliver cletrac, its a late 40's or early 50's machine

 

[camojeep]

band mill

Home built bandmill

 

[srcarr52]

milling finally

This is a mill that I built from scrap in our shop. Some improvements to be done but it was a good first attempt. The 181->288 convert with the high top looks good on it.

 

[820wards]

This is a mill that I built from scrap in our shop. Some improvements to be done but it was a good first attempt. The 181->288 convert with the high top looks good on it.

Looks good! Bet you can't wait to start on your first log. I would suggest that you add a handle on the first cross piece of the mill. It will help you to hold the mill down flat as you start your cuts, the length of your cuts and as the blade exits the wood. Post some pictures of your first boards with the mill.
jerry-

 

[srcarr52]

Looks good! Bet you can't wait to start on your first log. I would suggest that you add a handle on the first cross piece of the mill. It will help you to hold the mill down flat as you start your cuts, the length of your cuts and as the blade exits the wood. Post some pictures of your first boards with the mill.
jerry-

Evidently you saw my thread for it's first test. http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/173899.htm#post2988908

First additions will be a foot to ride against the log and another lateral to hold it on the ladder better when it doesn't sick out much further then the log.

Also I'll be cutting down some .404 sprockets to work for 3/8 lo-pro. It cut pretty good with 3/8 semi-chisel ground as 10 top plate, 50 hook and 0 side but I think that the lo-pro will be better.

 

[820wards]

Evidently you saw my thread for it's first test. http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/173899.htm#post2988908

Yes I did and it looked like it cut your bench quite well. Did you see where an additional handle on the top of the mill would make it easier to control your mill?

First additions will be a foot to ride against the log and another lateral to hold it on the ladder better when it doesn't sick out much further then the log.

Some of the guys here actually use roller blade wheels mounted to a bar that ride along the log as you mill. I'm sure you experienced your mill wanting to dig into the side of the slab you were milling, a piece of 1" x 1/8" flat stock about 6-7" long mounted just above the chainsaw bar will work as a guide bar. If you plan to use aluminum, step up the thickness of the stock. You can bend aluminum pretty easy if your saw pulls the guide into the log really hard. A gusset behind the guide will keep it from bending.

Also I'll be cutting down some .404 sprockets to work for 3/8 lo-pro. It cut pretty good with 3/8 semi-chisel ground as 10 top plate, 50 hook and 0 side but I think that the lo-pro will be better.

I think they make sprockets specific to using low profile chain, I'm sure someone here can confirm that. Are you running a 7 x .404 or a 8 x .404 sprocket? I have both for my mill and the 8 x .404 is definitely larger in diameter. Are you cutting it down for a clearance problem on your saw, or just to slow the chain speed down which is what you will be doing by cutting the diameter of the sprocket down.

I like your mill being made from aluminum, I'm sure it is easy to pack in to where you are doing your milling.

Have fun milling,

jerry-

 

[srcarr52]

I will definitely put another handle on the mill.

I was planning on just making a bent aluminum foot. I do a lot of sheet metal work on stock cars so we'll see what I come up with.

They don't make a 3/8 low-pro rim drive sprocket for large splines so I'll cut down the outside of the .404 sprocket to be the right size for 3/8 low-pro chain since it takes a slightly larger sprocket diameter then regular 3/8 to mesh correctly. The tip has to be modified as well. mtngun has a great post on low-pro milling.

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/121746.htm

 

[srcarr52]

Mill improvments

As promised I made a few improvements over the weekend to the mill.

I added a foot to ride against the log and a few lateral to help start into the log at the end of the ladder.

 

[smokinj]

View attachment 188978

One more!

 

[burningwood]

Just getting started

I have the mill together (36 inch) teamed up with the 660 stihl, I have the 9 foot ez rails that I'll put together before Wednesday.

I'm starting on some pine trees that have been topped off that should make some nice lumber.



View attachment 189326View attachment 189327




burningwood

 

[john taliaferro]

hello i think i got a picturehttp://saabtuner.com/johnt/JohnT_Woodworks/My_Albums/Pages/Photos_files/IMG_0677.jpg

 

[820wards]

I have the mill together (36 inch) teamed up with the 660 stihl, I have the 9 foot ez rails that I'll put together before Wednesday.

I'm starting on some pine trees that have been topped off that should make some nice lumber.

View attachment 189326View attachment 189327
burningwood

Welcome aboard and thanks for posting pictures of your mill.

jerry-

 

[burningwood]

Mill

Welcome aboard and thanks for posting pictures of your mill.

jerry-

Thanks Jerry, Smokin helped me getting the mill together with some helpful links. We have plenty of pine down so it's just having everything ready before I start.


burningwood

 

[burningwood]

Pine Trees

Welcome aboard and thanks for posting pictures of your mill.

jerry-

Here are some pictures of pine trees that I would like to mill.





View attachment 189359View attachment 189360View attachment 189361View attachment 189362




burningwood

 

[markvanzee]

this is my mill, it's made by stihl and can cut up to 40 inch logs
i was actually going to make my own mill to fit my stihl 070 with 36 inch bar, but then this one came up for sale in the netherlands.
since this is very rare over here i was the only one who was interested in buying and bought the whole set up with: mill, stihl 084, bar 48 inch with 3 almost new stihl ripping chains, and a 20 inch bar and chain.
i'll be milling a 20 inch ash soon, will post images!

 

[BobL]

That's very interesting Mark, is that arm with the rubber wheel attached to the underneath of the bar spring loaded?

If so , and it is loaded in the direction of the arrow in the image above, is it successful in pushing the saw away from the log?

I see it also has a number of small skids under the mill rails, some of which appear to be broken off and others replaced.
I assume they have done this to reduce friction but it also looks like this would also preclude the use of log rails and one could only use something like a starter board?
If you need less friction, then high density polyethylene (HDPE) skids (see picture below) work really well and also provide a flat surface on the milling rails is something to consider.

Thanks for posting - it is indeed quite unique.

 

[markvanzee]

That's very interesting Mark, is that arm with the rubber wheel attached to the underneath of the bar spring loaded?

If so , and it is loaded in the direction of the arrow in the image above, is it successful in pushing the saw away from the log?

I see it also has a number of small skids under the mill rails, some of which appear to be broken off and others replaced.
I assume they have done this to reduce friction but it also looks like this would also preclude the use of log rails and one could only use something like a starter board?
If you need less friction, then high density polyethylene (HDPE) skids (see picture below) work really well and also provide a flat surface on the milling rails is something to consider.

Thanks for posting - it is indeed quite unique.

no the arm is not spring mounted, it's just bolted to the bar and mill.
some of the skids are indeed broken, i think it's because of vibration or letting the heavy mill rest on a guide board.
one of the previous owner added a couple more and made a system to stop the board thickness crank from rotating, which works great. i think this stihl mill is over 20 years old since i'm the third owner (first owned by a french dude who sold it to a dutch person who lived in france and who moved back to the netherlands) and the bar that came with it says 'made in WEST germany' ...
but it's a great mill, i only need to make some some skids or just screw on a board of the material you were talking about and i might add an auxilary oiler.

i think it's indeed easier to use this mill with a guide board instead of log rails since the skids are not welded at a 90 degree to the mill

thanks for your advice

mark