Log Splitter Wedge Question

[Yarz]

It's Graphite paint. Also called slip plate and can be applied with a brush.

Neat idea with the graphite paint! I've never seen it before, but it sounds like it works well, while it lasts.

I'm running a box beam and box slide and it is 16 inches long.

I don't want to derail the thread, but haven't seen a splitter on a box beam (aka. square tubing??) before. Would you mind sharing the size / wall thickness?

 

[Sandhill Crane]

The paint is tuff.
65 hrs. plus on machine. Probably less than thirty hours pushing wood. Twice I ran it with a three guy crew keeping it fed, but maybe four hours total like that.

Bottom photo: An all but hidden zerk fitting on cylinder rod pin is inaccessible without pulling the pin, supporting the cylinder, and sliding push plate sled back out of the way. Reinsert the pin in the cylinder rod end, grease it, pull the pin, and re-assemble. How stupid is that!

I'm loving the wedge design on the Eastonmade from what I've seen posted on AS.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

It works so well it doesn't even take any paint off the 4 way wedge, Impressive.

Sawyer Rob: Is that an old photo from when you first got the splitter? It seems completely opposite of mine which has little wear on the push plate and paint wore off the four-way leading edges. Have you replaced the four-way like TomTrees did?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It isn't a current pict., but it's far from when the splitter was new... It's the same 4-way that came with my splitter when I bought it new, I leave it on all the time...

We aren't splitting this week and maybe not next week either ?, but next time we do, I'll take a couple "current" picts., I'm sure it shows a little more wear on the paint now...

SR

 

[Country bumpkin]

When I made mine. I put grease fittings on the top & bottom of both plates. The Graphite is a good option too. A little goes a long way.

 

[D Chaplin]

How many cord a year are you planning on? The biggest thing I've seen cause premature wear is to have your slide either too loose or too short. the longer the better as it will take a lot of the side flex out of the equation IF you have everything close and smooth to start with.

I'm running a box beam and box slide and it is 16 inches long. It's not going to wobble side to side. Make sure to smooth everything up and don't let ANY weld slag or burrs left on there. A burr can create a drag that will start a gouging action and wear grooves.

Notice how mine looks black here? That's the following.

It's Graphite paint. Also called slip plate and can be applied with a brush. Most Ag supply stores or tractor dealers have it. Farmers use it to paint wagons on the inside to get grain to flow. Used to use it on combines and plows to keep the rust at bay during downtime. It's so slick you'll go head over heels in a grain wagon if you step on it. It wears off quickly on high contact points like anything does but I found it helps a lot. Same deal, paint it if you know it's going to be setting for a long time.

This is the first year after about 75 cord worth of wear.

I wouldn't use grease just from the mess factor. You'd have it everywhere and as stated, it'll hold the dirt there, what you don't want.

Kevin,
Another question about your build. What are your thoughts on running say a 6x6 square tube in say a 1/4" thick (or thicker) sidewalk instead of boxing a beam? I'd box both ends Of course.

Derek

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Kevin,
Another question about your build. What are your thoughts on running say a 6x6 square tube in say a 1/4" thick (or thicker) sidewalk instead of boxing a beam? I'd box both ends Of course.

Derek

I did use a box beam. 6x8 x 1/2" thick. I then welded 3/8" plate to the sides. A 6x6x1/4 is basically 3 times weaker than a 6x8x1/2". The 3/8" plate on the side makes it even stronger. My opinion is it would bend quickly with anything more than a 3 inch cylinder. Here is a link to some charts that may help you.

http://www.cousesteel.com/AndysPlace/Pdf/LRFDBeamLoadTables.pdf

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It works so well it doesn't even take any paint off the 4 way wedge, Impressive. Sorry, I couldn't resist on that one. That's a nice splitter.
Has that push block held up? I would have laid money it would be bending on those corners over time with no support.

As promised, here's updated picts. of my TW.

As you can see, the push plate isn't bent,

and the paint is holding up really well,

considering the amount of BIG crotches I push through the 4-way, I did a bunch of them today...

SR

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

As promised, here's updated picts. of my TW.

As you can see, the push plate isn't bent,

and the paint is holding up really well,

considering the amount of BIG crotches I push through the 4-way, I did a bunch of them today...

SR

That is more believable. It was just the pic you posted, referenced and told us to look at, is quite a bit different than this one. The 4 way looked like it had never been used where as this one is. No paint is that tough.

Great splitter, no question. I think their 4 way design is the best I've seen but I do like a more rigid design. Is this a slip over or adjustable via a cylinder? Looks like a slip over only by your pics.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It's a slip over that you can operate with an optional cylinder... Those big crotches are what takes the paint off, I see paint on the tough parts as they leave. lol

More rigid? I haven't bent anything on the 4-way or anything else... Looks plenty rigid to me.

SR

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

It's a slip over that you can operate with an optional cylinder... Those big crotches are what takes the paint off, I see paint on the tough parts as they leave. lol

SR

The cylinder for adjustment would be a must for me if I'd do a pusher. I know it's slower but I tend to single split some of the nastier stuff when huge, just to save some fines or smalls. Thanks for the info and pics.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you don't have the cyl., you can flip the 4-way over and it will sit higher for bigger splits.

Of course, it would be VERY easy to put a cyl. on it, and you have ALL the tractor hydraulics to use, through the remotes, if you want to use them to run what ever you want.

SR

 

[Wowzer]

If you are using UHMW as a slide plate it's not how thin or thick you should go it's about getting it secured down good and tight. So you would want to put it on the pusher, and bolt it up with you pusher to the I beam or box whatever setup you end up with. I would say nothing less the 1/4" thick to get ridgity and hold the bolt holes over time. If you could do a 3/8, or 1/2 even better. But do no oil or grease it if you add UHMW. It's not the oil or grease that will degrade or tear up the UHMW it's the grit it picks up. Ohh and don't put UHMW to UHMW the 2 then will wear like sand paper on wood it's strange

 

[KiwiBro]

Ohh and don't put UHMW to UHMW the 2 then will wear like sand paper on wood it's strange

Yeah, about a 1/3 greater friction for UHMWPE on UHMWPE than UHMWPE on steel.

 

[turnkey4099]

My TW3HD has those same grease zerks. I DO give them a pump of grease EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, there is NO mess! Anyone greasing the wear area on the beam and getting a mess, it over greasing!

All it takes is a light film, not gobs to attract dirt and make a mess getting every place!

You don't see gobs of grease or a mess on my splitters beam.

SR

Same here. I used to grease my homebuilt and after a short session of splitting there would be no sign of grease. Never found any on my pants or wood either.

Bought the Troybilt 27 ton. Instructions said to put oil on the beam before a splitting session. I made a wire loop to hold an old time squirt can of motor oil right on the macine, couple shots every time I start the motor, no mess at all.