Yep... funded largely with your tax money to boot, may as well take advantage of it.
Logging Chains
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This is a rare occasion but I agree with you. They will do just fine. I have quite a pile as the local farm store runs some real good deals. Several years ago a grade 70 3/8 x20 ft was $39.99. They then ran a quick sale offering buy one get one free. I bought 10 so I got 20 chains. The other kicker was it was near Christmas so they had a online offer of free shipping. I ended up getting (20) ...400ft, delivered for $400
Sounds like I paid too much. But after having a choker break while using it to lift a 1000 lb log I was determined to get something I could not break. When it fell, neither myself or my truck was under it. It would have killed me, or tore the ass end off my truck. I am very careful doing this stuff but I never expected a chain to fail.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1620171097...yA7jzQXSrG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1620171097...yA7jzQXSrG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I will say that I like having the grab hook on one end and the slider on the other.
Quality tools aren't cheap.
Unfortunately chains fail all the time as well as cables and ropes.
You can get actual logging chain in the same configuration. Most will not have the safety latch that is pictured in your link, which is required for any lifting equipment. If you tie that hook back to the chain you'll eventually bend that safety latch. They really aren't conducive to tie back like logging chain.
As to whether you paid too much or not that is subjective. Injuries cost big. If your lifting overhead you got the right chain. OSHA says Lifting chain has to be certified with a tag permanently fixed to the lifting device stating its size and WLL. They also have a 5x safety factor. If a lifting device is rated for 5k lbs it must be able to hold 25k. This and the difference in manufacturing processes are why they are so much more than standard chain.
This is a shot from across the factory. All the orange and blue rails are the hoists. I will say they can and do fail but generally do to human error. One did yesterday but I am not sure of the details
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Most or at least a lot of my logging equipment was found on the ground were others were once cutting. It is what got me to start spray painting all my logging equipment a bright glossy red. Generally I never have any idea of the quality or its worth. We (the Royal We) just pick it up and start using it. Nobody is dead yet.
The data tag on chains seems to becoming more important, at least for a commercial/industrial use. I haven't ever really had to buy chains, normally get them used, or more recently my dad retired and I got to go through his chains. All I can say is I wish I had my truck and not the car that day. Basically drug the bumper on the ground the whole way home. He did a lot of rigging and over head lifting, so most of the chains are tagged, even his g70 cargo chains have data plates on them. First ive hade chains with data plates. I did buy a few slip hooks years ago, and made up one chain. I actually don't like or dislike it anymore or less then using a normal hook.
Anything used for lifting must have the WLL (working load limit) somehow affixed to it. Whether it's a tag (on a chain or sling) or stamped into a hook, shackle, master link, or other load handling device.
There is a lot of crap on Amazon and ebay that is listed as rigging equipment that you have to watch out for. If it is advertised as such but doesnt have the required identification it wasn't made to ASME standards and should not be trusted.
There is a lot of crap on Amazon and ebay that is listed as rigging equipment that you have to watch out for. If it is advertised as such but doesnt have the required identification it wasn't made to ASME standards and should not be trusted.
I switched to 1/4" chain because it's lighter to handle and even the G40 stuff is strong enough to drag a 30' Hickory log through the woods. I do take at least one G70 5/16 chain with me because there are times when 1/4" isn't going to be enough. I've added the choker hooks to a couple of my chains and like them quite a bit, especially if I have to slide one under a log that's sitting flat on the ground.
I've got some skidding tongs that work well with the tractor where you can pick up on the log first to set the teeth. Some I've bought and some I've made. The only problem is that they have a limit to to the size of log they will work with. You either build them for big stuff over 20 inches, medium stuff in the 12" to 18" range, or little stuff that's under a foot. For little stuff, I normally wrap a choker around 2 or 3 of them and treat them as 1 log. Works most of the time, but sometimes I end up just scattering them through the woods... lol
I've also made half a doze of these (Saddle hook I think). I make them out of 1/2" rebar. They have proven to be really handy for pulling multiple logs on one chain, or connecting a slip hook or winch to a chain. A chain hook will fit through the opening and the narrow end will grab on a link. If you make the big end big enough, they will also slip over a trailer ball
Not pretty but they are cheap to make, they work well, and they are very strong.
I've got some skidding tongs that work well with the tractor where you can pick up on the log first to set the teeth. Some I've bought and some I've made. The only problem is that they have a limit to to the size of log they will work with. You either build them for big stuff over 20 inches, medium stuff in the 12" to 18" range, or little stuff that's under a foot. For little stuff, I normally wrap a choker around 2 or 3 of them and treat them as 1 log. Works most of the time, but sometimes I end up just scattering them through the woods... lol
I've also made half a doze of these (Saddle hook I think). I make them out of 1/2" rebar. They have proven to be really handy for pulling multiple logs on one chain, or connecting a slip hook or winch to a chain. A chain hook will fit through the opening and the narrow end will grab on a link. If you make the big end big enough, they will also slip over a trailer ball
Not pretty but they are cheap to make, they work well, and they are very strong. 
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
The rating tags aren't required for private use. 95% of homeowners aren't buying Crosby, PeWag, etc...based on cost alone.
On the flipside, no legitimate insured commercial/industrial operation is purchasing lifting and rigging equipment from Amazon, ebay, HF, etc...
These operations are buying it from suppliers who rate and service it. Crane1 for example.
Never said they were. I said for it to be a legitimate lifting device it is required, and if there is no identification they should not be trusted for overhead lifting.
Most people don't know the difference and grab whatever they have laying around without ever realizing the difference between a grade 70 and a grade 100 chain or why they should or shouldn't use each.
That's a little guy
I spent most of my carrier working Tier 1 Automotive supply shops that did injection molding. Many of the molds were over 6ft tall, 4ft wide, and 3ft thick. Some were over 8ft. Most of our cranes were 50T. One thing to keep in mind with chains is what you are doing with them. Regardless of what they are rated to do, NEVER find yourself underneath of the load. It's kind of like a gun where you don't ever want to point it at something you don't plan on destroying regardless of whether it's loaded or not. A chain that is going to be used for overhead lifting is supposed to be certified. That certification is NOT the information that is stamped or embossed on the chain or hook. The information is normally on a metal tag that's affixed to the chain some how AND it has an expiration date because the chain has to be recertified at a certain frequency. If you don't have that, or if the certification has expired, then technically it's not safe to use the chain for overhead lifting. Then again, dragging a log isn't overhead lifting. If you're dragging logs, it all goes out the window. The chains are constantly getting abraded, banged up, and pulled on in ways that they were not intended to. Best thing to do is always be prepared for them to break.
I wouldn't use a hazard freight chain for anything but cheap costuming, stuff is just plain dangerous, even for homeowner use.
The tag really only matters if you plan on being inspected by OSHA, though folks do need to pay attention to WLL (working load limits) when ever they are playing with chains or rigging of any kind.
I've snapped many a homeowners chains with the log truck gyppo yarding logs out of some swampy back yard... I bring my own rated chains and cables, but they can't seem to be bothered to figure that out and insist on using their own junk... breaking said junk, then doubling down by continuing to use shorter and shorter pieces of said junk... it would hilarious if I wasn't screaming at them to use my chains, in clear view on the chain deck... whateves, I get paid by the hour on circuses like that.
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
That's a little guy
50T cranes are cute. Our melt shop cranes are 300T.
The place I currently work always has Osha in the back of their minds. Everything, is overhead or life saving rated.
Home use I worry less, but it's something thats becoming more prevalent. Even at the seminars I've recently attended on and off road recovery there is a huge push for having rating tags in case something goes wrong. There have been several case studies where people got severely injured or killed from using improper equipment and or not understanding how much force it take to move a certain amount of weight. Even if it is just a insurance/ getting a lawsuit your coveting your own arse.
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