Looking at either a Stihl 462 or 500i

[farmer steve]

I have the 462 and love it. I had a chance to run a brand new out of the box 500i this past fall at our GTG that came from out of Europe. A very nice smooth saw. BUT for the money difference I'd say the 462 is the way to go. Plus you can get one now. A couple of the Husky guys ran my 462 and said they thought it was a sweet saw. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[DND 9000]

I currently have a Stihl 441RCM running a 25" bar that is about 7 years old. No major issues at all with it, except if you put it down while idling and pick it up, it will die but always starts right back up, doesn't happen everytime. Not checked that out yet but guessing something is out of alignment and needs adjusting.

That was an issue in the past. There was a new carburetor and control unit released to solve this. The spring for the inlet control lever in the newer carburetor has fewer turns. Together with that bundle carburetor/control unit this solves the issue (Stihl says). If this is worth for your 7 year old saw? I don`t believe it. Just in case you are intrested, the bundle would be 1138 007 1008.

 

[catbuster]

Of the 462 and 441 the 441 has a better power band. That said, you’re talking about a 25” bar, so it probably doesn’t matter, the saw isn’t going to work very hard anyway. Also, with a 25” bar I probably would leave the big dawgs and definitely the wrap in the dust. The dawgs eat up the bar you can use and with the length bar there’s no practical advantage to not using the back of the bar. There’s usually some up charge for the model with the wrap, clutch cover & dawgs too in the midwest or east side of the U.S.

I haven’t run a 500i but I am really itching to, as the 462 in my eyes has been a pretty big disappointment.

 

[farmer steve]

Of the 462 and 441 the 441 has a better power band. That said, you’re talking about a 25” bar, so it probably doesn’t matter, the saw isn’t going to work very hard anyway. Also, with a 25” bar I probably would leave the big dawgs and definitely the wrap in the dust. The dawgs eat up the bar you can use and with the length bar there’s no practical advantage to not using the back of the bar. There’s usually some up charge for the model with the wrap, clutch cover & dawgs too in the midwest or east side of the U.S.

I haven’t run a 500i but I an really itching to, as the 462 in my eyes has been a pretty big disappointment.

Just curious what you didn't like about the 462. I'm always open to constructive criticism about what other people like and don't like about saws.

 

[catbuster]

Just curious what you didn't like about the 462. I'm always open to constructive criticism about what other people like and don't like about saws.

The power band is really narrow for running a longer bar. The saw pulls great when it’s turning a high RPM but it doesn’t pull down and still make power like the previous generation of Stihl saws. It’s just not torquey (sp?) enough when I have the dawgs set and I’m pulling on the back handle.

A 462 is probably faster than any other saw in Stihl’s history with a short bar and if it’s allowed to self feed. You know, GOL/Swedish Stump Dance type deal. I don’t cut like that. It just doesn’t work as well for me.

 

[Andyshine77]

there’s no practical advantage to not using the back of the bar

For a firewood cutter I agree. For a logger using the back of the bar makes you work harder as you have to wrestle with the saw. There was a lot of research on the subject and the difference in fatigue at the end of the day was quite substantial.

There should be no upcharge for a wrap handle, and the difference in usable bar length is very small, especially when you consider the advantages of the better dawgs.

I personally prefer at least a 28" bar on my 70cc saws now, the reach is nice and it's easier on the back. I used to buy into the east coast short bar syndrome myself, but when I started messing around with the longer bars it quickly converted me.

I always find it funny how some get locked into one way of doing things. That said what works for the individual is all that really matters.[emoji111]

 

[nch209]

I am no saw expert, but I love my 462. I started with a 290, then 362, and now a 462, and I am very content now. I run a 25 es light bar, and it takes care of all my needs easily. (I think a 28 would be ideal for this saw, but again, I got the bar and chains for a song from our Greek friend.) I did opt for a non M-tronic as it was a stellar deal from a forum member, but would have no issues with a mtronic or a i saw. I personally think you will like with a 462 or a 500,,, but I have no experience with a 500.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

For a firewood cutter I agree. For a logger using the back of the bar makes you work harder as you have to wrestle with the saw. There was a lot of research on the subject and the difference in fatigue at the end of the day was quite substantial.

There should be no upcharge for a wrap handle, and the difference in usable bar length is very small, especially when you consider the advantages of the better dawgs.

I personally prefer at least a 28" bar on my 70cc saws now, the reach is nice and it's easier on the back. I used to buy into the east coast short bar syndrome myself, but when I started messing around with the longer bars it quickly converted me.

I always find it funny how some get locked into one way of doing things. That said what works for the individual is all that really matters.[emoji111]

Around here, there it's definitely a higher price tag on the saws with wraps. Not that you'll ever see one on the shelf. They need to be ordered in, once the dealer is educated about their existence.

 

[Andyshine77]

The power band is really narrow for running a longer bar. The saw pulls great when it’s turning a high RPM but it doesn’t pull down and still make power like the previous generation of Stihl saws. It’s just not torquey (sp?) enough when I have the dawgs set and I’m pulling on the back handle.

A 462 is probably faster than any over saw in Stihl’s history with a short bar and if it’s allowed to self feed. You know, GOL/Swedish Stump Dance type deal. I don’t cut like that. It just doesn’t work as well for me.

I feel the 462 lacks little to nothin VS the older Stihl saws, especially with a MM. In my experience smooth saws always feel slower, the old jackhammer rubber mount saws always felt fast, even if they weren't.

 

[catbuster]

I feel the 462 lacks little to nothin VS the older Stihl saws, especially with a MM. In my experience smooth saws always feel slower, the old jackhammer rubber mount saws always felt fast, even if they weren't.

That’s fine. I’m glad you feel that way. It’s nice to see you took 12 words out of context from the rest of my first post. As a person who uses their tools to make a living, I run a 28 or a 32 and don’t run the back of the bar except for a few circumstances. That’s what the 3/4 wrap is for. But with a short bar... It just doesn’t work anybody that much harder.

 

[Andyshine77]

They need to be ordered in, once the dealer is educated about their existence.

Now that there is the truth, Midwest dealers are clueless when it comes to such things Most of the time. Luckily the Stihl Midwest distributor is actually here just outside Cincinnati, so they often set the record straight pretty quickly. Few years ago local dealer was saying there was no such thing as a 460 with a wrap handle, finally they broke down and called Bryan equipment, they had then in stock.[emoji4]

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I feel the 462 lacks little to nothin VS the older Stihl saws, especially with a MM. In my experience smooth saws always feel slower, the old jackhammer rubber mount saws always felt fast, even if they weren't.

Several MM 462's on YouTube have lost time in the cut....most that do gain time, gain very little.

The muffler on 462 is pretty dang good for a stock saw.

 

[Andyshine77]

That’s fine. I’m glad you feel that way. It’s nice to see you took 12 words out of context from the rest of my first post. As a person who uses their tools to make a living, I run a 28 or a 32 and don’t run the back of the bar except for a few circumstances. That’s what the 3/4 wrap is for. But with a short bar... It just doesn’t work anybody that much harder.

Easy there, wasn't taking anything out of context, just offering up a different point of view.

That said I simply cannot see running a short bar not working a guy harder. The extra cutting, moving around and bending over, that's all extra work IMHO. Again if it's what you prefer more power to you.[emoji111]

 

[Andyshine77]

Several MM 462's on YouTube have lost time in the cut....most that do gain time, gain very little.

The muffler on 462 is pretty dang good for a stock saw.

That is not what everyone has experienced.[emoji111]

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

That is not what everyone has experienced.[emoji111]

Show us a video....don't hide your secrets

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I can agree with other that in my experience the 462 doesnt have the best low end. Revved to max with a 25 bar cutting something less than 25' it is probably the fastest stock 70cc saw I have personally used.
However, when you are cutting something BIG or using a longer bar you can feel it not performing as well as other saws in the same category.
I have not muffler modded mine. I was going to but decided to see how it was performing after a year of being worked hard.

I do have the 3/4 wrap and big dawgs on it though. I didnt bother going into my dealer and asking for the wrap handle after he didnt know (or refused to say) that HP Ultra can be bought in 5 liter drums. Instead I bought it off our Greek forum member.

 

[catbuster]

Easy there, wasn't taking anything out of context, just offering up a different point of view.

That said I simply cannot see running a short bar not working a guy harder. The extra cutting, moving around and bending over, that's all extra work IMHO. Again if it's what you prefer more power to you.[emoji111]

Then I guess you’re either not grasping what I’m saying, or just not reading what I’m writing. Back barring a 20 or a 25 is much easier than back barring a 32. The saw does not push back in the user as hard.

I have a 3/4 wrap. I flip over to the other side when I would otherwise have to back bar. I run long bars on my saws for the same reasons you do. Working with a straight back is much easier on the user long term than bending over.

That said, if the end user is running a short bar, the OP said he ran a 25, which I disagree with but it’s up to him in the end, then back barring with that length isn’t all that hard to do, which negates the need for the 3/4 wrap, in my view.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I use a 24' most of the time and have a 3/4 wrap like I said. It's good to have every available option in my experience. I dont back bar near as much as I used to when I was using a 1/2 wrap but it's still useful sometimes when you dont want chips flying back at you or if you are dressing a stump and dont want too much dust getting on your resin soaked chaps or under your sprocket cover.

 

[Andyshine77]

Then I guess you’re either not grasping what I’m saying, or just not reading what I’m writing. Back barring a 20 or a 25 is much easier than back barring a 32. The saw does not push back in the user as hard.

I have a 3/4 wrap. I flip over to the other side when I would otherwise have to back bar. I run long bars on my saws for the same reasons you do. Working with a straight back is much easier on the user long term than bending over.

That said, if the end user is running a short bar, the OP said he ran a 25, which I disagree with but it’s up to him in the end, then back barring with that length isn’t all that hard to do, which negates the need for the 3/4 wrap, in my view.

Got it.[emoji106]

 

[farmer steve]

The power band is really narrow for running a longer bar. The saw pulls great when it’s turning a high RPM but it doesn’t pull down and still make power like the previous generation of Stihl saws. It’s just not torquey (sp?) enough when I have the dawgs set and I’m pulling on the back handle.

A 462 is probably faster than any other saw in Stihl’s history with a short bar and if it’s allowed to self feed. You know, GOL/Swedish Stump Dance type deal. I don’t cut like that. It just doesn’t work as well for me.

Thanks. I only run a 20" on mine as I don"t have the need for a longer bar most of the time for the cutting I do. I do have longer bars if needed. I never worried about that extra second in the cut some do.