I need a larger chainsaw

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm in Virginia and that $1,395 is tax included with a gallon of bar oil, 6 pack hp ultra 2 gallon mix, the 2 sides sharpener and 12 files for the sharpener
With some sort of bar and chain as well?
around here there is a better than $100 difference between regular handle/standard 28” bar vs wrap handle/lite bar.
 
yes but I got the 25 inch bar and chain because I already had a 36 inch combo and I don't see needing a 32 inch or 28 inch. I do also have a 20 inch bar and chain for it but that's as small as I want to go.
 
yes but I got the 25 inch bar and chain because I already had a 36 inch combo and I don't see needing a 32 inch or 28 inch. I do also have a 20 inch bar and chain for it but that's as small as I want to go.
I just cut firewood, so I use a 25" bar 99% of the time. I have a 25" bar also but I rarely need it.
 
I need a larger saw, maybe it’s just a want.
I have a Stihl MS 261 CM and a MS 400 CM and I am looking for something a little bigger. I am disappointed in the 400.
Does it cut? Yes and it runs great but it's not head over heels more powerful than the 261.

A little background,
Firewood is poor quality in North Texas and the price is outrageous.
I cut 6 cords each year for me and immediate family.
My cousin and I like to take one or two weekends and cut all our wood and haul it a family members house where he spits all the wood for us. Basically we want to done quickly and efficiently because it costs money to take off from work.

I want something that will run a 24" bar. Main use is for firewood (all hardwood) a few weekends a year, and then a few days of use for storm clean up per year.
Tree size around here that I cut is usually 24"-40" and it's mainly Oak and Pecan. I have only had to cut two trees over 40" due to a storm so that's the only exception.

I want to upgrade to a saw that will cut faster and more efficient, so I was looking at the MS 462 CM and the MS 500i. I want something that will run a 24" chain without struggling.

From what I gathered from my research is;
The 462 costs less, has more vibration, has better air filter, and uses less fuel than the 500i.
The 500i is more powerful, has an air filter that easily clogs, drinks fuel, and everyone, including people that haven't used either saw just scream buy the 500i.

The cost between the two isn't a concern to me, neither does the amount of fuel it uses.
I would prefer the less weight of the 462 and less vibration but I am concerned that it won't be much more powerful than my 400. Then, I will say I wished I would have went with the 500i.
Has any upgrade been done or design changes to the 500i to fix the air filter problems?
Is the 500i proven yet?

How is the 462 going to compare to the 400? More powerful? how much more power? 5cc's doesn't seem like much difference.
Go with the 500i, or will a 24" bar matter on those big saws?
Which one overall between the 462 and 500 is the nicer saw and easier to use?
Saws will remain stock, with no mods.
I do like the m-tronics.
We only have a Stihl dealer around so that is what I will be sticking with.

Any input with an explanation or reason of what chainsaw would be best for me, would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryan
 
Hi can't. Help regarding 500i but I have a 660 and 661c.....both great saws 661 is definitely stronger .....I'd recommend one if you can handle it .....I haven't come across it can't handle with ease .
 
I'm retired so I don't do much cutting anymore.Pacific Gas and Electric Co. ( I have a akronym for them) dropped 11 of my Ponderosa pines between last year and this year. My son and grandson were doing the duty, but with a number of issues with an old stihl that was a slower rpm saw,I didn't catch the model, I was working on other things.
At my old place in Redding CA, I used to buck with a Dayton 4Z252, logger chain 24" bar up to 48" digger pine ( we had 32 of them fell by a logger who took the prime parts for payment, except the big boy by the shop that,when it fell, the crap fell of the shelves!) :) :chainsaw: Link to: https://www.thisoldchainsaw.com/4z252 I do not have the saw anymore.

I just got two chainsaws (one is made in china,Neo-Tec 105cc,36" bar, for testing purposes) and a McCullough CP125, 42" vintage homelite roller bar, Stihl skip 0.404 0.063 early semichisel chain, for fun.

FYI:Yes I know this is an old thread. :)
 

Attachments

  • s-l1600 - 2023-11-18T194035.099.jpg
    s-l1600 - 2023-11-18T194035.099.jpg
    238.9 KB
  • s-l1600 (22).png
    s-l1600 (22).png
    1.4 MB
  • s-l1600 (21).png
    s-l1600 (21).png
    1.8 MB
  • 51uTlyBbHQL._AC_SL1005_.jpg
    51uTlyBbHQL._AC_SL1005_.jpg
    30.4 KB
  • 71uensPVAiL._AC_SL1498_.jpg
    71uensPVAiL._AC_SL1498_.jpg
    133.7 KB
Get the 500I and don't worry about the filter, they are OK ! I have one myself, and it's nice, the filter thing is overblown.
Its not overblown but the fix is simple: double up the foam gasket where the knob screws in. Thats where the fines pass through when using just 1 gasket/o-ring.
 
I run the Black Max Flow Cover on the 661 & 500i with the Stock filter and use 2 ,1/16" or a 1/8" thick black Nylon washer under the foam washer piece.

Never had an issue with chips or fines getting past.


Mad3400
 
I would say the 462 is more forgiving due to its weight and lower vibration. It's a good saw, no doubt. But if pure power was your priority, the 500i would make a noticeable difference in larger hardwoods.
 
I have 3-500i’s. Just for kicks I picked up a used 462 this fall and I really like it too. Never run a 400 yet.
last week I was felling some 20” +- frozen hard maple with the 500i and a ported jred2171 with a 24” skip chain. In that size wood I honestly couldn’t tell the difference. Bucking all three of these saws are very close. However once into the 26” and over realm the 500i starts to show why its boss.
i figure in 5 more years when I hit 60 that Stihl will have a 400 size and weight saw with the fuelie, I’ll sell a couple 500’s for that and live happily ever after.
 
I have 3-500i’s. Just for kicks I picked up a used 462 this fall and I really like it too. Never run a 400 yet.
last week I was felling some 20” +- frozen hard maple with the 500i and a ported jred2171 with a 24” skip chain. In that size wood I honestly couldn’t tell the difference. Bucking all three of these saws are very close. However once into the 26” and over realm the 500i starts to show why its boss.
i figure in 5 more years when I hit 60 that Stihl will have a 400 size and weight saw with the fuelie, I’ll sell a couple 500’s for that and live happily ever after.
Don't hold your breath for that. The 500i shares its engine with a cut off saw before it hit the chain saw market. There's nothing to suggest stihl is going to do the same with a smaller platform.
 
Hi folks,
I just wanted to give an update with the saws, chains, and a few things I’ve learned.
With my three saw collection, I just swap chains in the field when one gets dull and sharpen the chain at a later time.

I’ve settled on:
16” bar on the MS 261 CM
20” bar on the MS 400 CM
And 28” bar on the 500i

In another thread I was having an issue where all three saws stopped running and it turned out that it was winter fuel in hot weather and was vapor locking.

Main reason for this update is for the 400.
This month I’ve been cutting my firewood and it has seemed to become my go to saw. Lighter weight than the 500, cuts well, and cuts faster than the 261.
Then I started having problems with the saw being “under powered” again and stalling out. I took note on what had changed.
Last year I was using the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener and started having problems with the 400. It wouldn’t cut because it absolutely would not pull a chain through the wood. This year with my new chains, the saw ran fine. I’ve been hand filing my chains and everything was sharp and cutting well. Then in the shop this week I used the 2 in 1. I have one for 3/8 chain and one for .325 chain. My 400 and 261 stopped cutting after this. The saw would go from wide open starting the cut, grab the wood, aggressive pull and self feed, then stall out to a dead stop about 1/5 of the way through the cut. While the 2 in 1 does sharpen the chains, it lowers the rakers down .040-.045 and my saws stall out. I think those 2 in 1 sharpeners are junk and purchased a west coast saws raker gauge. While it might be ok for soft woods, it sucks for hardwood.

I’m glad I figured out this problem before ruining any other chains. The chains are at about 1/2 life so I might not have enough tooth left to file them down and get the rakers back to normal.

The 500i runs great and has plenty of power for the 28” bar in oak. I’m happy with my purchase.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
 
I never had a problem with the Pferd which makes Stihl. I use it about every 3 or fourth sharpening. I make sure I don’t change any of the angle’s which can be done when switching systems.
 
I did some research this week and found this here talking about the chain being “grabby” in post #18. This is exactly what I have experienced with the 2 in 1. Some brands it sharpens correctly and others it takes off too much of the raker. Several other people have posted about the same experiences on other forums, Reddit, and on YouTube.

Khntr85
The 261 has a 16” bar on it.

I like the 261. It’s a nice lightweight saw with some power. It was the first one I bought of my Stihl saws. I used cheap Walmart, and Home Depot saws before which were basically throw away saws after a year or two. I went through 4 of those over about a 10 year period. They were all cheap plastic saws so I don’t have any good other brands to compare the Stihl saws too.

I ran a stihl 170 and 180 in 2022 for firewood and was impressed by them. Locally we only have a stihl dealer and I knew I wanted something that would last so I went for a pro grade saw. The smallest pro grade was the 261. Then naturally I started watching more youtube videos on saws and wanted something that would cut faster which led me to where I’m at now.
 
I need a larger saw, maybe it’s just a want.
I have a Stihl MS 261 CM and a MS 400 CM and I am looking for something a little bigger. I am disappointed in the 400.
Does it cut? Yes and it runs great but it's not head over heels more powerful than the 261.

A little background,
Firewood is poor quality in North Texas and the price is outrageous.
I cut 6 cords each year for me and immediate family.
My cousin and I like to take one or two weekends and cut all our wood and haul it a family members house where he spits all the wood for us. Basically we want to done quickly and efficiently because it costs money to take off from work.

I want something that will run a 24" bar. Main use is for firewood (all hardwood) a few weekends a year, and then a few days of use for storm clean up per year.
Tree size around here that I cut is usually 24"-40" and it's mainly Oak and Pecan. I have only had to cut two trees over 40" due to a storm so that's the only exception.

I want to upgrade to a saw that will cut faster and more efficient, so I was looking at the MS 462 CM and the MS 500i. I want something that will run a 24" chain without struggling.

From what I gathered from my research is;
The 462 costs less, has more vibration, has better air filter, and uses less fuel than the 500i.
The 500i is more powerful, has an air filter that easily clogs, drinks fuel, and everyone, including people that haven't used either saw just scream buy the 500i.

The cost between the two isn't a concern to me, neither does the amount of fuel it uses.
I would prefer the less weight of the 462 and less vibration but I am concerned that it won't be much more powerful than my 400. Then, I will say I wished I would have went with the 500i.
Has any upgrade been done or design changes to the 500i to fix the air filter problems?
Is the 500i proven yet?

How is the 462 going to compare to the 400? More powerful? how much more power? 5cc's doesn't seem like much difference.
Go with the 500i, or will a 24" bar matter on those big saws?
Which one overall between the 462 and 500 is the nicer saw and easier to use?
Saws will remain stock, with no mods.
I do like the m-tronics.
We only have a Stihl dealer around so that is what I will be sticking with.

Any input with an explanation or reason of what chainsaw would be best for me, would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryan
I have a Sachs-Dolmar 133 Super...if you are interested..its a monster
 
I've read so much about saws, that I've come to one conclusion.. The saw chain needs to be absolutely razor sharp. Not sharp (ish), not even "it's a new chain" sharp, but cat's claw sharp. .. It also needs to have the rakers set to the type of wood that's being cut. Huge difference between 20 thou.. 25 thou..
I had my "destruction dude", tearing out some trees with an excavator with a thumb, and tossing them into the bush. I was sitting in the garage, and it was all good, until the lights blinked three times, and the world went dark. Sure enough, a minute later, "Reg", was at the door, wanting to know if I had a saw, as he'd tossed one on the hydro wires. "Sure".. "Whattta ya want, small, medium, or large?" He picked "medium".. I gave him my Echo 590 Farm boss. Greatest saw in the collection? Ahh no, but I'd just got done putting a ( for me) world class sharpening on it. I sparked it up, and then shut it down and gave it to him. I could hear him having at it about a minute later. He came back and handed me the saw.. " Darn, that really cuts!!".. Well .. no actually it doesn't.. it's just a common Echo product, it's decent, but it was the sharpening that makes the difference. He wasn't impressed by the saw, he was impressed by the sharpness.
I'm not bragging about my skills,, no, far from it. I'm pretty sure that most of you could do as well as I can, and way, way better.. But, when it comes to worrying about what saw to use to cut whatever.. Start with sharpening skills .. Test a saw with a fresh chain, and then with one that you've sharpened, and then with one that someone else has sharpened.. Maybe, the saw isn't the issue..
 
I've read so much about saws, that I've come to one conclusion.. The saw chain needs to be absolutely razor sharp. Not sharp (ish), not even "it's a new chain" sharp, but cat's claw sharp. .. It also needs to have the rakers set to the type of wood that's being cut. Huge difference between 20 thou.. 25 thou..
I had my "destruction dude", tearing out some trees with an excavator with a thumb, and tossing them into the bush. I was sitting in the garage, and it was all good, until the lights blinked three times, and the world went dark. Sure enough, a minute later, "Reg", was at the door, wanting to know if I had a saw, as he'd tossed one on the hydro wires. "Sure".. "Whattta ya want, small, medium, or large?" He picked "medium".. I gave him my Echo 590 Farm boss. Greatest saw in the collection? Ahh no, but I'd just got done putting a ( for me) world class sharpening on it. I sparked it up, and then shut it down and gave it to him. I could hear him having at it about a minute later. He came back and handed me the saw.. " Darn, that really cuts!!".. Well .. no actually it doesn't.. it's just a common Echo product, it's decent, but it was the sharpening that makes the difference. He wasn't impressed by the saw, he was impressed by the sharpness.
I'm not bragging about my skills,, no, far from it. I'm pretty sure that most of you could do as well as I can, and way, way better.. But, when it comes to worrying about what saw to use to cut whatever.. Start with sharpening skills .. Test a saw with a fresh chain, and then with one that you've sharpened, and then with one that someone else has sharpened.. Maybe, the saw isn't the issue..

Totally. Sharpness is binary not gradual. A few years ago, new chains used to fell sharper than ones I sharpened myself. I've been working on my technique and I recon its now the opposite.
 
Totally. Sharpness is binary not gradual. A few years ago, new chains used to fell sharper than ones I sharpened myself. I've been working on my technique and I recon its now the opposite.
I am no sharpening expert. But when I use the Pferd 2 in 1 sharpener, it cuts faster than a new chain. As for a bigger saw, I like the Stihl MS500i. It will cut through 18" red oak in 10 seconds.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top