Looking For A Reliable And Easy Way To Test That My Stihl 024AV Is Creating A Impulse To The Carburetor

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Targa

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I am working to get my Stihl 024AV running and starting well. So far, I disassembled the saw done to the case. After sealing off the exhaust, intake and leaving the spark plug in I vacuum and pressure tested the case. The vacuum and pressure held at 7-8 psi/hg so the case is sealed well without any leaks. By the way, I pressure and vacuum tested through the Impulse port.

So, if there is a practical way, I would like to insure the case/crankcase is produce a vacuum and positive pressure to the carburetor through the impulse port?

Is there a way to do this working with just the case assembly and my vacuum/pressure tester?

Would appreciate your input

Thank you
 
Why did you not check the vacuum\pressure by pulling the saw over when you had the gage hooked up to the pulse port?
Since I'm just working with the case and no handles attached its hard to hold the case with the spark plug in. I wrote the post hoping someone may have developed a easier way to do it working with just the bare case.
 
Why wouldn't it?
I know it should since the case tested with no leakage for both the vacuum and pressure test. It's just that I would like to be sure if possible before I put it all back together. That way, if I have a starting or running problem its either the carb or coil. Plus, this is the first time I've worked on a 2 cycle engine.
 
I know it should since the case tested with no leakage for both the vacuum and pressure test. It's just that I would like to be sure if possible before I put it all back together. That way, if I have a starting or running problem its either the carb or coil. Plus, this is the first time I've worked on a 2 cycle engine.
Put the flywheel or clutch on and hook your gauge up to the impulse port, leave the plug out and turn the engine over with the FW (or clutch). You should see the gauge bounce either side of zero, you don't really need to read numbers.
 
I know it should since the case tested with no leakage for both the vacuum and pressure test. It's just that I would like to be sure if possible before I put it all back together. That way, if I have a starting or running problem its either the carb or coil. Plus, this is the first time I've worked on a 2 cycle engine.
You can pressure test the carb/fuel line too
 
Put the flywheel or clutch on and hook your gauge up to the impulse port, leave the plug out and turn the engine over with the FW (or clutch). You should see the gauge bounce either side of zero, you don't really need to read numbers.
This is the type of suggestion I was hoping for! Thank you Old2Stroke. It worked perfectly so now I know the impulse port works properly.
 
If you have tested via the impulse port & confirmed the case is sealed then the only way there wouldn't be impulse is if the ring/piston was missing or seriously f***ed up.
It's always a good idea to turn the engine over a couple times when leak testing, the fluctuations you see confirm you are testing the whole case & not just a blocked port or kinked line
 
I know it should since the case tested with no leakage for both the vacuum and pressure test. It's just that I would like to be sure if possible before I put it all back together. That way, if I have a starting or running problem its either the carb or coil. Plus, this is the first time I've worked on a 2 cycle engine.
What a saw choice for your first time I just rebuilt one of these with the original continuous oiler. I got real intimate with that 024 lol she's gone now but I got 350 smackaroos in my pocket even though I spent that bringing her back to life. But it was so worth it these old saws.... they just do something fer me idk 🤷‍♂️
 

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