looking to try climbing
- Thread starter Adkpk
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safety blue is what I use.. excellent rope with great hand. ties knots with ease. holds up well, try to use a friction saver.
quality comes first, price is secondary. it helps if you can get both.
quodos to you for asking for second opinions! this will help you separate BS that will get you killed.
quality comes first, price is secondary. it helps if you can get both.
quodos to you for asking for second opinions! this will help you separate BS that will get you killed.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am thinking the Weaver double dee saddle, a throwline. Friction saver, Lanyard(wire core). "Climbers Companion". And am still undecided about the ascender and the rope. As I think of going through the motions of starting out, the questions become to much to write. So right now I am going to look through the book to get some answers. (Like an important question, how do you get back to the surface?) Thanks guys
newguy18
Addicted to ArboristSite
i hear ya
hi my name is bill howe i am trying to get in to the pro end of tree climbing.i learned and still climb in a linemans belt with pole spikes still trying to get tree spikes and a saddle.i also recomend the tree climbers companion by jeff jepson.
hi my name is bill howe i am trying to get in to the pro end of tree climbing.i learned and still climb in a linemans belt with pole spikes still trying to get tree spikes and a saddle.i also recomend the tree climbers companion by jeff jepson.
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Keep it simple and safe, good saddle, steelcore, spurs and a new rope. I finally got the Treeclimbers Companion, no advice on how to cut, just painfull ways to hump up the tree, use ladders or get someone to help, page after page about getting the rope in the tree and then getting up it. I know that book was written with good intentions but c'mon.
nytreeman
ArboristSite Operative
Ive climbed and taken quite a few trees down by myself but its def not a good/safe idea get a good man on the ground you can trust.Climbers companion is a good book for the basics.Get a new pair of tree gaffs and saddle,a couple good rope lanyards,maybe a steel core flipline,200 ft of good climbing rope and a 3/4 " bull rope for lowering.learn your knots,like taughtline hitch,bowline etc. , is a good start.Ive taking down hundreds of trees using just this and even after many years I like to keep my climbing simple and safe so I can go home at night and fix my old ford work trucks and drink some beer 
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like I said the Treeclimbers Companion is not about the work, it is about how to get into a tree without using spurs, for the most part. If you need a 3/4" rope to lower, you are taking way to big pieces, think about it. Other than that NYTreeman, excellent post, keeping it simple, good man.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ordered a Weaver double dee saddle, New England blue vee rope, friction saver, throw weight and line and a 5/8 th 8' wire core flip line system. I am better at doing something to learn rather than just reading about it. So. I 'll learn some knots once I get some rope. I've thought out the equipment pretty well but am unsure about the flip line. Anyway it's a start. Will need to watch a video or someone climb to get any idea how to but if the opportunity rises I'll be ready with my new digs.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
The equipment is here, all I need now is a tree and a prayer. The "Tree Climbers Companion looks like it's filled with all the goodies I need to a least get my feet off the ground. In the meantime I will be trying to line something up with a lesson or two. Thinking about getting to the Mass. rec climbing gtg in May. Here's to you guys.
adrpk.... be careful!
a good way to get hooked up is to go watch some jobs in action.
it's hard not to see a few tree companies working nearby.
go introduce yourself and ask if it's ok to watch from a safe distance.
stay out of their drop zone.
or get calling in the yellow pages.... you'll find someone that will let you watch and help out.
it's amazing what help you'll get... if you simply ask.
a good way to get hooked up is to go watch some jobs in action.
it's hard not to see a few tree companies working nearby.
go introduce yourself and ask if it's ok to watch from a safe distance.
stay out of their drop zone.
or get calling in the yellow pages.... you'll find someone that will let you watch and help out.
it's amazing what help you'll get... if you simply ask.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've noticed that I got a twisted rope instead of braided. Everything I've read tells me that braided rope is better for climbing. I'm thinking of returning it for braided but realize I need twisted rope for splicing. I guess I should try it with the rope I have and if I can actually do it I can get the braided.
"The Tree Climber's Companion" is a great help.
I figure I'll have some knots down by the time the rec tree climbing gtg comes around, in May, and then watch those guys climb. In the meantime I'll be looking for climbers.
"The Tree Climber's Companion" is a great help.
I figure I'll have some knots down by the time the rec tree climbing gtg comes around, in May, and then watch those guys climb. In the meantime I'll be looking for climbers.
2 cents
I've been watching this thread with some interest, as I only started climbing about a year and a half ago.
Here's my 2-cents' worth: Send back that huge wirecore flipline. Keep the rope and use it to splice a couple of safety lanyards. You have plenty of rope to practice several splices (it's not hard, but you need a fid) until you get the hang of it and your splices come out looking clean and tidy. Eight feet is too short--make yours 10 or 12 feet. Make them just like the ones in the catalogs with a nice aluminum snap and plastic thimble at one end and a backsplice at the other. Buy a couple of eye-and-eye split tails (3/8" tenex) to control your lanyards (you can make your own, but it will take you too long and save very little money). You can attach them to your harness with 3/8" steel screwlinks you can get in the hardware store. Now you're all set except for the climbing rope. 120 feet of a standard 1/2" braided rope will get you started. I like Arbormaster but the other ropes will all work.
There are many other goodies, like slack-tending pulleys, that can make life a lot easier, and once you have them you'll never want to be without them. If you rec climb for any length of time, you'll undoubtedly expand and modify your equipment.
Why 2 lanyards? A lot of reasons--see the Jepson manual. Here's a reason not mentioned there: the 2-in-1 lanyards (sometimes recommended as an alternative) are a PITA because they are not independent. Tightening one loosens the other. Also the symmetrical prusik knot used to control it is nearly worthless. I soon learned to hate my commercial 2-in-1, my first lanyard, and am very happy with my single replacements.
Have fun!
I've been watching this thread with some interest, as I only started climbing about a year and a half ago.
Here's my 2-cents' worth: Send back that huge wirecore flipline. Keep the rope and use it to splice a couple of safety lanyards. You have plenty of rope to practice several splices (it's not hard, but you need a fid) until you get the hang of it and your splices come out looking clean and tidy. Eight feet is too short--make yours 10 or 12 feet. Make them just like the ones in the catalogs with a nice aluminum snap and plastic thimble at one end and a backsplice at the other. Buy a couple of eye-and-eye split tails (3/8" tenex) to control your lanyards (you can make your own, but it will take you too long and save very little money). You can attach them to your harness with 3/8" steel screwlinks you can get in the hardware store. Now you're all set except for the climbing rope. 120 feet of a standard 1/2" braided rope will get you started. I like Arbormaster but the other ropes will all work.
There are many other goodies, like slack-tending pulleys, that can make life a lot easier, and once you have them you'll never want to be without them. If you rec climb for any length of time, you'll undoubtedly expand and modify your equipment.
Why 2 lanyards? A lot of reasons--see the Jepson manual. Here's a reason not mentioned there: the 2-in-1 lanyards (sometimes recommended as an alternative) are a PITA because they are not independent. Tightening one loosens the other. Also the symmetrical prusik knot used to control it is nearly worthless. I soon learned to hate my commercial 2-in-1, my first lanyard, and am very happy with my single replacements.
Have fun!
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Moray, I am going to take your advise for two reasons. One, I noticed the lanyard is already to short to fit around one of my practice trees ( the big oak at my shop). It is much heavier than I thought, too. Two, I need to get a helmet for a gtg I signed up for. I will exchange it for that.
It took me some time to look up all the other stuff you recommended. I had no idea what that stuff was. I am still not sure how it all works for me. Aluminum snap I got, plastic thimble, check. Eye to eye splitails, I know what they are but know not what they are use for, exactly, (hang equipment)? Slack tending pulleys I am assuming are the gadget to make ascending easier? Could you clear the use of those two items up for me.
I will use the climbing gtg to figure out methods lanyards and what ever else I have no idea about. But that's a month away so keep it coming it is a lot to learn.
I am studying knots and have managed to tie my throw weight to the line with a figure eight knot. I am working on the clove hitch which I know form the BS's. The, blakes hitch looks easy enough but have yet to make the time to tie my first. But you'll see I get up a tree yet!
It took me some time to look up all the other stuff you recommended. I had no idea what that stuff was. I am still not sure how it all works for me. Aluminum snap I got, plastic thimble, check. Eye to eye splitails, I know what they are but know not what they are use for, exactly, (hang equipment)? Slack tending pulleys I am assuming are the gadget to make ascending easier? Could you clear the use of those two items up for me.
I will use the climbing gtg to figure out methods lanyards and what ever else I have no idea about. But that's a month away so keep it coming it is a lot to learn.
I am studying knots and have managed to tie my throw weight to the line with a figure eight knot. I am working on the clove hitch which I know form the BS's. The, blakes hitch looks easy enough but have yet to make the time to tie my first. But you'll see I get up a tree yet!
Adrpk, here's an assembled lanyard. I removed the pulley to simplify things.
The screw link (you can use some other locking device if you want) is "permanently" attached to a side D ring. If you use a screw link, make sure it is well tightened with a wrench. Also make sure it is stamped with a sizeable SWL (mine say 2200 lbs). Go around the tree with the lanyard and snap to the other D ring. Use the friction knot to adjust the length to suit.
The friction knot material is 3/8" tenex (eye and eye). The knot is a Schwabisch. The combination works very well.
Note the backsplice at rope end. This prevents your knot from sliding right off the end of the rope if you descend a few feet. It seems plenty sufficient for the purpose to me (I have hung on mine many times) but you may want to apply some other treatment (a big knot or a spliced eye around a thimble).
The second lanyard is just like the first, only it is "permanently" attached to the other D ring. It is helpful to have snaps of different colors.
Your questions are welcome; I hope this helps!
The screw link (you can use some other locking device if you want) is "permanently" attached to a side D ring. If you use a screw link, make sure it is well tightened with a wrench. Also make sure it is stamped with a sizeable SWL (mine say 2200 lbs). Go around the tree with the lanyard and snap to the other D ring. Use the friction knot to adjust the length to suit.
The friction knot material is 3/8" tenex (eye and eye). The knot is a Schwabisch. The combination works very well.
Note the backsplice at rope end. This prevents your knot from sliding right off the end of the rope if you descend a few feet. It seems plenty sufficient for the purpose to me (I have hung on mine many times) but you may want to apply some other treatment (a big knot or a spliced eye around a thimble).
The second lanyard is just like the first, only it is "permanently" attached to the other D ring. It is helpful to have snaps of different colors.
Your questions are welcome; I hope this helps!
Last edited:
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Adrpk, here's an assembled lanyard. I removed the pulley to simplify things.
The screw link (you can use some other locking device if you want) is "permanently" attached to a side D ring. Make sure it is well tightened. Go around the tree with the lanyard and snap to the other D ring. Use the friction knot to adjust the length to suit.
The friction knot material is 3/8" tenex (eye and eye). The knot is a Schwabisch. The combination works very well.
Note the backsplice at rope end. This prevents your knot from sliding right off the end of the rope if you descend a few feet. It seems plenty sufficient for the purpose to me (I have hung on mine many times) but you may want to apply some other treatment (a big knot or a spliced eye around a thimble).
The second lanyard is just like the first, only it is "permanently" attached to the other D ring. It is helpful to have snaps of different colors.
Your questions are welcome; I hope this helps!
I don't like that screwlink, bought from a hardware store and all. It's not rated, it's not double locking. It is a good idea, (and the law here) to attach everything that your life depends on with double locking devices, caribiners or rope snaps with a 5000lbs. rating min. I also would not advise splicing yourself for this application, only certifed spicers are allowed to work on lifelines here, there is a reason for that. Don't take my advice to climb with spurs and a steelcore, fine, but I am on pretty solid ground with this advice.
Thanks for your comments, clearance. I think you are on rock-solid ground with your advice. In my comments I made it clear to Adrpk that there were alternatives to the methods I was showing. No way would I suggest someone, especially a beginner, cut any safety corners. But I don't think you have to strictly follow the book to be safe.
The screwlink you see is rated at 1000 KG SWL. I feel 100% safe using it which is why I show it. It has the advantage over a snap or biner of being small, leaving more room on the D for other stuff. You can pound the hell out of it with no effect, unlike a biner that can actually be opened by whacking the gate from the outside. And you can cross-load it with far less strength-reduction than would occur with a biner. Even though I mentioned 3/8" as the gauge of the screwlink, I was remiss in not recommending it be one with a safe working load stamped on it.
Splicing. I spliced my first 3-strand rope shortly after I started climbing. The rope manufacturers themselves recommend splices rather than knots wherever possible. As far as I am aware, you don't have to send your ropes in to an ANZI-certified technician to have your knots tied for you. Why splices?
I would have some reservations in advising that just anyone should go ahead and make their own splices in braided rope. But I don't have those reservations about 3-strand, and that's the only kind I suggested Adrpk should try. With 3-strand you can easily see what kind of job you have done, the process is very simple, and you can (should) leave nice visible tails after the last tuck. If they start to slip into the splice, you will know it. I have never seen the slightest sign that mine have slipped, even when I tested one once with about 800 lbs. You can make safe splices just from instructions on the rope manufacturers' web sites, but I would recommend Adrpk get a copy of Brion Toss's video on splicing, which is both educational and entertaining.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
good except for the screw link they should be double locked as they can loosen and if they do could be a hazard.Adrpk, here's an assembled lanyard. I removed the pulley to simplify things.
The screw link (you can use some other locking device if you want) is "permanently" attached to a side D ring. Make sure it is well tightened. Go around the tree with the lanyard and snap to the other D ring. Use the friction knot to adjust the length to suit.
The friction knot material is 3/8" tenex (eye and eye). The knot is a Schwabisch. The combination works very well.
Note the backsplice at rope end. This prevents your knot from sliding right off the end of the rope if you descend a few feet. It seems plenty sufficient for the purpose to me (I have hung on mine many times) but you may want to apply some other treatment (a big knot or a spliced eye around a thimble).
The second lanyard is just like the first, only it is "permanently" attached to the other D ring. It is helpful to have snaps of different colors.
Your questions are welcome; I hope this helps!
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I would prefer another snap for safe climbing!
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well done, pics! Oh boy, this is getting good. I worked on my splicing today for a little while. Didn't have my book with me so I didn't reach any finished splices but I definitely got a feel for it. I am good with rope, was a lasher of many things in the BS's. I also got into macrame for a while. I braid things out of leather all the time for key chains and things.
Sent the rope and lanyard back today. Spent some time on the phone with a salesman from Bailey's. Looks like I am going to buy 150' of Arborplex. I'm trading the lanyard for a helmet so I can get in on the gtg coming up.
I am not sure which climbing system to use but I like the 'tree walking' method Ekka showed in a video, mostly because he makes it look simple and with not much hardware. Not sure about the foot method and the others I am not familiar with the others.
Looked at screw links at the hardware store today and they were twice the price as Bailey's, soooo.
I am going to study and go over the lanyard equipment and possibilities. One question about cutting through it with a chain saw. Isn't that why they use wire core? Definitely like the idea of keeping it light, (In the finale of my climbing career I would be taking out tops of trees back on my property in order to drop them without taking out the rest of the woods, that is a ways off time wise) so what's up, safety wise cutting with a rope lanyard?
Sent the rope and lanyard back today. Spent some time on the phone with a salesman from Bailey's. Looks like I am going to buy 150' of Arborplex. I'm trading the lanyard for a helmet so I can get in on the gtg coming up.
I am not sure which climbing system to use but I like the 'tree walking' method Ekka showed in a video, mostly because he makes it look simple and with not much hardware. Not sure about the foot method and the others I am not familiar with the others.
Looked at screw links at the hardware store today and they were twice the price as Bailey's, soooo.
I am going to study and go over the lanyard equipment and possibilities. One question about cutting through it with a chain saw. Isn't that why they use wire core? Definitely like the idea of keeping it light, (In the finale of my climbing career I would be taking out tops of trees back on my property in order to drop them without taking out the rest of the woods, that is a ways off time wise) so what's up, safety wise cutting with a rope lanyard?
