looking to try climbing

[beowulf343]

I am going to study and go over the lanyard equipment and possibilities. One question about cutting through it with a chain saw. Isn't that why they use wire core? Definitely like the idea of keeping it light, (In the finale of my climbing career I would be taking out tops of trees back on my property in order to drop them without taking out the rest of the woods, that is a ways off time wise) so what's up, safety wise cutting with a rope lanyard?

DON'T CUT THE LANYARD WITH YOUR SAW AND THERE WILL BE NO SAFETY PROBLEMS.

But seriously, have tried steelcore, but don't like it. So been climbing 12 years with rope lanyards and no problems yet. Nicked a lanyard several years ago nothing more serious than that. Have to always keep your mind on the job-always know where your saw is and where it's going to be. And always tie in twice, just in case something does happen. Always use a lanyard and my climbing line when chunking down a stem, just in case i do cut my lanyard, can fall back onto my climbing line. But control of the saw is vital to keeping your lanyard in one piece.

 

[moray]

DON'T CUT THE LANYARD WITH YOUR SAW AND THERE WILL BE NO SAFETY PROBLEMS.

Nice discussion, everybody!

I would just like to add the general comment that all the safety regs and double-locking this and double-locking that can't replace judgment. But judgment can replace some of that other stuff. I agree with ropensaddle that screwlinks can come loose--mine sometimes do. That's why I use some judgment and check them once in awhile. Not to say I wouldn't prefer something the same size with a bulletproof closure. I could tighten the screwlinks with a wrench, or use loc-tite, but I don't. I just check them once in awhile. I have seen some bad hardware clash at my side D's, and I really like knowing those tough little screwlinks can take it.

As to the steelcore lanyard, I agree with the quote. Maybe if I were a pro cutting faster than hell day in and day out, I might like the extra security of steelcore, but I'm not. I love using my saw in the tree, but I take my sweet time and crank the judgment dial up to the max.

 

[046]

here's treesypder's knot page. one of the best around

http://www.mytreelessons.com/Flash/knots/simpleBends_2.swf

 

[moray]

I am backing down...

I tighten mine with a wrench like they are designed to be done. I have two deltas on my Butterfly saddle for the leg loops.

I have edited my second post, inserting two ideas: a screw link should be tightened with a wrench, and it should be stamped with a sufficient SWL.

For myself, I think I may start using a wrench on my screw links. It will cost me something in convenience every time I need to clean pitch off the lanyard or want to remove it for some other reason, but it will give me some minor amount of extra security. Probably about a wash. But I will give it a try.

But I should have been more prudent in my suggestions to a beginner. After Adrpk has thrown his lanyard around a few thousand limbs and trunks, as I have, he can safely make his own judgments about a lot of this stuff.

As to the wisdom of using screw links in the first place, I stand by that. I have tried both locking biners and rope snaps and didn't like either. There is no other connector I am aware of that is as small, simple, and tough as a screw link. And it is much less likely to cause and much less likely to be susceptible to clash with other stuff at the Dee.

 

[Adkpk]

Good one 046. But I hope you all have been to this site. http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

BTW, I have put this in here. 046 put his money where his mouth is on posting a , let's see how do I call it, a misleading link. He took responsiblity for posting a link to some rope that wasn't exactly what is best for climbing. I had my eye on that rope before he posted the link and didn't compute that is was twisted instead of braided. I take full responsability for the purchase. Anyway, this standup guy actually offered me the change for the shipping to cover his mistake. So I say, hail 046 you can fight on my team anyday.

 

[Adkpk]

bio

A little about myself. It is unlikely I will fall out of a tree due to bad choice of links or some type of equipment failure. I build stone retaining walls for a living and know something about loading rigs. I have never hurt myself or anyone else on the job. (Save a few stitches from lawnmower blades). Safety is key when it comes to gravity. I will take what ever is being said on this post and use to the best of my ability. Certainly not as how it should be done as much as how it can be done. So far what has been said has been constructive and helpful. I especially am getting ideas out of this lanyard posting.
I almost have a clue on how to stick yourself to the tree but am still almost clueless as to how to pull yourself up. Keep up the good work I'm learning.

 

[Adkpk]

Got some more equiment today. Arborplex rope, helmet, micro pulley, split tail, caribiner, and an aluminum rope snap. Going with the split tail system. But now that I sent the twisted rope back need something to make the lanyard with. I thought 120' feet of rope was a bit much to make lanyards with but now I don't have any. Didn't realize short hanks of rope were hard to find. Like to have 30' feet of three strand rope, anybody got any ideas on how to get some of that?

 

[moray]

Good going, Adrpk, nice to see you're really chasing it down.

I use Samson Tree Master (1/2") for my lanyards. I also tried some Pro-Master, but didn't like it as well.

You can buy it by the foot if you ask (Sherrill, Wesspur). I got mine at Wesspur, but Sherrill is a lot closer to you.

Tree Master is a VERY hard lay rope, meaning it is very tough to separate the strands for splicing. You need a steel fid to do the job (I like the one made by Brion Toss (Port Hudson?). The good thing about the Tree Master is that it makes one tough and durable lanyard.

Pro-Master makes a serviceable lanyard, and it is a lot easier to splice, especially if you're new to the art. It's also very comfortable to hold. But the rope doesn't have a hard surface, is much limper, and seems more likely to snag on something rough. I doubt if it is nearly as durable.

You probably need about 3 feet more rope than the final lanyard length (remember the backsplice), and you'll probably eat up 10 feet or so practicing before you go for the real thing.

I hope you will post pictures when your first splice comes out of the oven. If you post it here, or PM me, I'll try to critique it for you...

Keep charging!

 

[beowulf343]

Got some more equiment today. Arborplex rope, helmet, micro pulley, split tail, caribiner, and an aluminum rope snap. Going with the split tail system.

So which is going on the split tail-the snap or the biner?

And what kind of tail did you pick up?

Going with a closed system or not?

 

[Adkpk]

So which is going on the split tail-the snap or the biner?

And what kind of tail did you pick up?

Going with a closed system or not?

The biner goes with the new england high vee 6' split tail. The snap is for the lanyard but I think I canceled that when they told me they(Bailey's) stopped selling short hanks of rope.
Closed system or not, is this a test? :biggrinbounce2: I don't know? What is closed or the other, please?
Started to think of steel core lanyard again must be getting nervous. Maybe a 12' one.
The guy I'm dealing with at Bailey's isn't just selling stuff to me. He actually is offering advise. That's really something.
The lanyard is really just for when you stop to do some work in tree, right. So what's the rush. First I got to find a way to get up and down a few times before bringing a chainsaw with me. I still don't understand how it's done but I am learning.

 

[beowulf343]

Ok-how are you attaching the rope to your saddle?

Closed system-both ends of the tail terminate on the biner.

No offense-but is the guy at baileys offering advice or trying to sell you something you don't need.

Lanyards are handy if you need to reposition your rope too. I always carry one-have had odd things happen where it is handy to have one.

Not trying to sound like a jerk-just genuinely curious. Like to see a newbie give it a go. Good luck.

 

[Adkpk]

Ok-how are you attaching the rope to your saddle?

Closed system-both ends of the tail terminate on the biner.

No offense-but is the guy at baileys offering advice or trying to sell you something you don't need.

Lanyards are handy if you need to reposition your rope too. I always carry one-have had odd things happen where it is handy to have one.

Not trying to sound like a jerk-just genuinely curious. Like to see a newbie give it a go. Good luck.

Open then because I only got one eye on the split tail. What is the advantage to closed?

Actually the guy at Bailey's advised I not buy something because he thought I wouldn't need it. And it was the most expensive thing on my list.

Don't mind sounding like a jerk beowolf I can learn from your mistakes.

Just keep it coming I'll try my best to sort it out as I get it. And then the test run. I am getting a little ancious. Wish it wasn't such a busy time of year for me.

I'll call Sherrill in the morning to ask if they have some short hanks.

 

[Adkpk]

First attempt at an eye splice.

 

[moray]

not too bad

Can you give us a closer view, especially the first couple of tucks nearest the eye? As you by now know, that part isn't quite as smooth sailing as the rest.

Looks like a very soft rope, like you can splice it without a fid. Excellent to practice on, though. Most of my practice eyes, made in soft rope, ended up in useful things like tiedown ropes for my pickup, a nice little lanyard for my chainsaw, etc. Once you can do it, every rope looks like it wants you to put an eye it it...

One good trick, almost essential in the really hard-lay ropes, is to flatten the strands (take out all the twist, contrary to what you'll read most places) as you tuck them. You get a cleaner, less-distorted splice, and probably better friction in the tucks. I think I saw TreeSpyder mention this one time, and Brion Toss discusses it.

Fun!

 

[Adkpk]

Can you give us a closer view, especially the first couple of tucks nearest the eye? As you by now know, that part isn't quite as smooth sailing as the rest.

Looks like a very soft rope, like you can splice it without a fid. Excellent to practice on, though. Most of my practice eyes, made in soft rope, ended up in useful things like tiedown ropes for my pickup, a nice little lanyard for my chainsaw, etc. Once you can do it, every rope looks like it wants you to put an eye it it...

One good trick, almost essential in the really hard-lay ropes, is to flatten the strands (take out all the twist, contrary to what you'll read most places) as you tuck them. You get a cleaner, less-distorted splice, and probably better friction in the tucks. I think I saw TreeSpyder mention this one time, and Brion Toss discusses it.

Fun!

I am on dial up, up here, no time for loading pics. Got to get out and get some plywood to put a roof on the woodshed. Look for the pics when I post them, I think, it came out pretty good.
I think I got the first couple of tucks wrong also. Yes, it is soft rope. I found it on a job somewhere and find it to be an excellant practice rope.
Man you were right about the keeping the twisted rope, darn it. Short hanks are not cheap.
Hey, Moray, you are doing real well on my end with the posting. Chock full of info. The confidence is building. I will do a google search for Brion Toss, I'm thinking he is a knot guy. Tree Spyder, I know, I've seen him around.

 

[Adkpk]

Treemaster rope is on the way. Got a bunch of other stuff also, eyelets, splicing kit, rope grab.

I was wondering if anyone could explain how I tie into this weaver double dee saddle. The two dees are confusing me as to what type of tie in I need to use?

 

[osb_mail]

The 2 center dees are for use with a split tail . You tie one end of your rope on a carabiner hook to 1 dee and hook your split tail on another carabiner hook it to dee 2 then tie your friction hitch with the split tail . That way you can pass limbs without retyeing your hitch . If dont have a split tail just hook up to both rings .

 

[beowulf343]

I was wondering if anyone could explain how I tie into this weaver double dee saddle. The two dees are confusing me as to what type of tie in I need to use?

Two d's? A tree saddle should have either 2 d's and a bridge, 3 d's, or 4 d's. Are you talking about the two lower d's? Simply bring the d's together and clip into them. Or if you are using a split tail, you can either bring the d's together and clip both your rope and split tail into them, or you can clip your rope into one and your split tail into the other. The two upper d's should be used for your lanyard.

Simply-take your rope, run through crotch(i always go right to left), bring down to saddle, attach to lower left d. Attach split tail to lower right d and tie your friction hitch. Good to go. If you don't like the lower d's seperated, simply clip them together with both your rope snap and split tail snap.

 

[Adkpk]

Two d's? A tree saddle should have either 2 d's and a bridge, 3 d's, or 4 d's. Are you talking about the two lower d's? Simply bring the d's together and clip into them. Or if you are using a split tail, you can either bring the d's together and clip both your rope and split tail into them, or you can clip your rope into one and your split tail into the other. The two upper d's should be used for your lanyard.

Simply-take your rope, run through crotch(i always go right to left), bring down to saddle, attach to lower left d. Attach split tail to lower right d and tie your friction hitch. Good to go. If you don't like the lower d's seperated, simply clip them together with both your rope snap and split tail snap.

Thanks Beowulf, I wondered if there was a piece of equipment I left out. I think I can actually get into the tree now, as far as equipment goes. Or as soon as the package comes. And I make up a lanyard. I'll be back with splicing questions I'm sure.
What is the test that should be preformed after assembling your own lanyard.
Maybe towing a car with it?

 

[nytreeman]

I use a spreader snap keeps the d-rings from drawing in together and squeezing your guts

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49403&stc=1&d=1176899438