Low Kickback Chain - What's the Point?

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Mr_Brushcutter said:
I personly like the stuff with the drive link guard that sits up agaist the cutters raker. .....
If I understand you correctly, you are referring to the chain with a little ramp on the drive links, just in front of the rakers - like Oregon LP/VP etc and Stihl RSC3.
I also like that chain, as they cut about just as good as chain without the ramp, but with a wider and more rounded ("bullet-shaped") raker, like Stihl RS/RSC/RM etc and Oregon LG.
I have not tried Stihl RSC3 or Carlton chain with the ramp, but hopefully they work as good as the original (Oregon).

The chain I use at the moment are 36RSC, 36RM, 73LP/H42/S42 and 95VP.
I am very satisfied with all these chain for their respective intended purpose.
:) :rockn:
 
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sawn_penn said:
Do you know which part of a chain a raker is? :confused:

well gee.... i only cut trees for a living, sharpen chains daily and oh.. i build hotsaws! of course i know what a raker is. ill explain it in simple terms ... basically it is the depth setting guide for the cutting teeth. and just to clear some things up i wasnt refering to taking them off i was only suggesting filing them down a bit more than normal for more of a bite.

-mike
 
romeo said:
A bench grinder will take those pesky saftey rakers off. :rock: :rock: :rock:

Yeah do what this dude says! But only the safety rakers, not the normal rakers, use a raker guage & file for that! I have successfully converted saftey chain to normal chain. My towns' Wallmart sells "normal" chain in 2 packs for cheap! Other than that...I hate walmart! They are basterds!:buttkick: :rock: :rock:

P.S. I had 6 gave to me so i did what I had to...I wouldn't buy these new.
 
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I have an even better idea about safety chains....burn'um up for stumping since theyre so cheap and buy the right chain for your regular cutting needs whether it be through Baileys, ebay, or your dealer. whats a couple of extra $$$ and you'll save all of that time grinding and filing!!! Is it really worth your time and aggrevation to save 4 bucks at the most, to me it isnt, remember time is money.
-mike
 
I have several if these loops. Bought some bulk for my top handles by accident, and had 2 16" saws that came with them.. they are awful.
I think I'll try the bench grinder.
I felt it took too long taking them down with my raker file. The actual rakers on the chain appear to be near the same height as the bumper straps 🙃
 
More work on the rakers/bumps, but they cut just fine. Frankly, Idk what all the hate is about.

If a safety chain shows up on a saw I buy, I just use it up, but so far I've never replaced one with a like chain.
 
There are people that can use non safety chain and make better progress. Then there are those who should ALWAYS run safety chain.
Got to remember that more that 50% (or more) of the people buying saws will use them less than 1 hour a year. With no safety apparel.
I found safety chain will not bore into a tree unless the safety links are ground down.
But then again, the homeowner in the burbs is not dropping trees.Oh and then there is the other reason- LAWYERS ( well, some of them. I know one that competes on the circuit. He gets it.)
 
I found safety chain will not bore into a tree unless the safety links are ground down.
Does Stihl still in their write up of 61pmm3 still say it is for professional plunge cutting? It really is before the cutters get filed back. The
Stihl bars for this 0.043 3/8lp are a bit different than brand x in the profile. The new Husqvarna sp21 the mini .325 has been developed with plunge cutting on an 8 tooth nose bar and it works.

Bumper tie straps are a thing of the past.
 
I hate the so called low kickback chain! I can see a manufacturer putting this type of chain on a new saw so you have to buy a new chain right away, but I don't really get the point of selling new chains as they will not actually cut anything.

We generally have Sabre brand or Oregon replacement bars and chains (all Oregon now as no one carries Sabre any more). Some really strange stuff has been happening with the Oregon stuff lately. We visited a local store get get our usual chain for a Timber Bear, but when we locked at our usual number the chain had been converted to low kickback - the spacers between the cutters have a huge ridge which would prevent you from cutting anything but tooth pick.

On the other hand I picked up the same number I've always used for my 3516 and although Oregon calls it low kickback its the same as always. It seems Oregon is rather inconstistant as to what they mean by low kickback chain. To add further confusion the Oregon booklet at the stor says to use chain X for the Timber Bear (kickback) while their web site says to use chain Y (not kickback). However package Y does not list a Timber Bear, while X does. In any case, although the chain size is the same (20") neither of the two chains has the same number of links as the old ones - LOL!

Aside from the fact that manufacturers can get away with putting junk chain on a new saw to force you to buy another one, the only other worth a manufacturer actually gets from the chain is less liability - the maufacturer recommends low kickback to lesson possible lawsuits, because your taking your life in your own hands if you dare to use our chain that actually cuts something - LOL!

Good thing scrap metal prices are up, at least the chain is worth something.

Just a hint of what you might do instead of throwing the chain out.
I did not read all of this thread posts but what I do with the low kickback chains that has the ramps in between the depth tangs is remove the chain and take it to my bench grinder and fold the chain to expose just the ramps and easily grind the ramps off which turns it into a regular chain that then cuts normally. my bench grinder stone is medium grit.
I do not do this for others due to the hot cup of coffee in the crotch thing, I just mention to them what they can do if desired
 
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