LSS (Local Saw Shop) wants $5 to sharpen chain

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at this time we charge $6.00 plus tax for a sharpen. I consider a sharpen what would take less than 7 or 8 passes with a file. If the teeth are to the point where they need to be reshaped we switch to our shop labor rate. this might need to be 2 or 3 passes with a grinder. We do not and will not accept bluing or burning of the tooth if I find out this has happened the customer gets a new chain for the price of the sharpen. Personally I would rather file the chain I do have 2 grinders a 511 oregon I use for 3/8 lo pro and .325" as well as 3/4" but I mostly use the Bell Ind. KB101 grinder for 20 series .325, 3/8" and .404". Also the depth gauges are checked and lowered if necessary.

Scott
 
DOLMARatOs said:
Lakeside.

State of Illinois says it's a big No No to charge Sales Tax on labor. The grinding technique is not hard to learn but it takes a while to perfect. Two passes is when we charge $10.00. Reversing just stops from getting the Burr on the outside of the LH cutters.


I understand about the reversing and the burr, but I find the burr is mainly about technique anyhow, and, for reasobable burrs - they come off immediately you put the chain in the wood. I prefer not to have sparks/wheel parts/grit in my face anyhow. I thought OSHA banned the reversing wheels (on the convectional grinders) - no grinding towards the operator?

Yes... sales tax.... In WA we have no state income tax, so they are a bit broader in definition of what we need to collect it on. Basically, if we "improve" an asset, it's taxable. If I just charge you for "advise", it's not. Hey.....
 
B_Turner said:
Is cool grind a brand of wheel dressing wax? I've never tried a commercial product and would like to on my vitrified wheels. Is it a readily available product?

.

Yes, Cool grind is a commercial wax. Stihl has it in their catalog to sell to their dealers. Any dealer can get it for you, and are are other sources. Works real well, gives a fine finish, and help with burrs etc.
 
Lakeside53 said:
I understand about the reversing and the burr, but I find the burr is mainly about technique anyhow, and, for reasobable burrs - they come off immediately you put the chain in the wood. I prefer not to have sparks/wheel parts/grit in my face anyhow. I thought OSHA banned the reversing wheels (on the convectional grinders) - no grinding towards the operator?

Yes... sales tax.... In WA we have no state income tax, so they are a bit broader in definition of what we need to collect it on. Basically, if we "improve" an asset, it's taxable. If I just charge you for "advise", it's not. Hey.....

I see what you are getting at with your sales tax. State by state the laws change so much it's hilarious. I know that OSHA frowns on blowing sparks in one's face LOL. I usually just run the grinder 1 direction anyway. If you're careful and bump your grinder properly and don't hog off a huge chunk of cutter there is almost no burr at all. But, on occasion I have had people get a little itchy about the tiny burr. Those people sometimes get the full treatment. I always used to wear a face shield, not I plan to make a lexan shield that is attached to the wall and adjustable to keep the dust off me. Gotta look pretty for the wives who come to pick up the chains and equipment. ;)
 
Heck with all the free beer offered lakeside better get a cabbie to drive. I still owe him all the free beer he can drink at a gtg, for some leg work he did finding me some stuff you cant get out east. :cheers:
 
klickitatsacket said:
hey when are you going to come down and let me buy you a beer?


I'll make it one day... Just hate the traffic!!! Maybe when I'm skiing at Crystal I'll come home the long way!
 
Cut4fun said:
Heck with all the free beer offered lakeside better get a cabbie to drive. I still owe him all the free beer he can drink at a gtg, for some leg work he did finding me some stuff you cant get out east. :cheers:


I should keep a list... I sure have had a lot of offers!
 
Tree Sling'r said:
I use Cool-Grind on my Silvey Pro-Sharp - that's right boys...A Pro-Sharp.:D

I'll try to find some cool-grind and give it a go. Sometimes I use wax from an old candle and it seems to work okay most of the time.

Tree Sling'r, what's your favorite wheel on your Pro Sharp?

I like the ceramic blue pretty well and the salmon wheel that came from Silvey. I tried white and gray "aftermarket" wheels from Madsens and found the quality pretty disappointing, especially the gray ones. I'm told it varies from batch to batch. At this point I think I'll stick to the blue one or maybe buy directly from Silvey to get good quality wheels. Though I'll bet Silvey will stick it to me on the price.
 
B_Turner said:
I'll try to find some cool-grind and give it a go. Sometimes I use wax from an old candle and it seems to work okay most of the time.

Tree Sling'r, what's your favorite wheel on your Pro Sharp?

I like the ceramic blue pretty well and the salmon wheel that came from Silvey. I tried white and gray "aftermarket" wheels from Madsens and found the quality pretty disappointing, especially the gray ones. I'm told it varies from batch to batch. At this point I think I'll stick to the blue one or maybe buy directly from Silvey to get good quality wheels. Though I'll bet Silvey will stick it to me on the price.

I use an after market blue stone as well. I can get nearly a full season from a stone. Cool grind is nice for grinding reasons, but it also helps me see my corner better. That along with good powered glasses makes grinding much easier. I am sure Madsen's blue wheel will work just fine - Silvey parts and pieces are a total rip-off.
 
Tree Sling'r said:
I use an after market blue stone as well. I can get nearly a full season from a stone. Cool grind is nice for grinding reasons, but it also helps me see my corner better. That along with good powered glasses makes grinding much easier. I am sure Madsen's blue wheel will work just fine - Silvey parts and pieces are a total rip-off.


I have a couple of the Madsens blue ceramic stones and they are great. But the white ones I have recently bought there are not quite as good as quality and the two grey ones I bought there were pretty bad. Badly sized grit, crumbly binder and in the holes on those stones was oversized and not round due to all the broken out material around the hole. Since I sometime swap wheels I need them to run fairly true.

The reason I was considering buying another salmon wheel from silvey is the one that came with the grinder is of excellent quality. Blue ceramic one cuts faster and cooler for sure, though. In fact I am now running a blue ceramic wheel on my 510 and like it much better than the two resinoid wheels I've tried.

The reason I bought the white and gray wheels was to see if I could get a better finish with them than either the salmon or blue (although both get what I consider a good finish). With the teeth being coated with chrome it may be that trying for a slightly better grinding finish might in reality buy me nothing. Trying to sort that out. That is why I was wondering what wheel you liked on your pro sharp.
 
DOLMARatOs said:
If you're careful and bump your grinder properly and don't hog off a huge chunk of cutter there is almost no burr at all.


Can anyone explain what the exact reasoning is for the technique of bumping the wheel and what Lakeside called the duty cycle?

I hand sharpen wood cutting tools on a grinding wheel all day long every day and with these types of tools it is universally accepted among all pros that a steady very light touch (and keeping the tool moving in relation to the wheel) gives the best results. No lifting the tool at all, although we do keep rotating the tool to keep it from overheating at the cutting edge.

When sharpening chains on the grinder I do try to utilize this cycle of touching the cutter to wheel, but I have never understood the reasoning. Something to do with the chrome? Madsens website uses a not dragging the brakes anology, but I used to drive truck for a living long ago and was always taught that with braking it is really about heat generation/dissapation over time. So in some cases the brakes actually got less hot when a lesser pressure was used over a longer time - more engergy into friction and less into heat. So I feel I must be missing something in regard to sharpening chains.

I get great edge on my chains round or square, but I am sure that how long it takes me could always be improved through better understanding of technique.
 
Has a lot to do with the hardness of the material. Chrome cutters and there is not very much material to absorb and carry away heat. A few milimeters at most. A slow grind will overheat the cutter and work harden it. This causes the evil blue cutters which means time to give the customer a new chain.

Bumping the grinder allows the cutter to cool for a moment. I wish they would make a water cooled or liquid cooled grinder. This would be a really nice set up.

Do they make a liquid cooled saw sharpener? Anyone? I was drooling over the Silvey grinders but dayum, I'd need to sharpen about 1000 chains to pay for it.

I am looking for a good used silvey depth grinder.
 
Lakeside53 said:
What he said!

no burrs (or a lot less) and no blue teeth. It's all in the wrist!

Luckily I'm not married or dating right now, otherwise my saw grinding technique would be lost in the off season. LOL Sorry, bad humor.
 
DOLMARatOs said:
Luckily I'm not married or dating right now, otherwise my saw grinding technique would be lost in the off season. LOL Sorry, bad humor.


I figure it's good practice. Never know when you'll need it..:cheers:
 

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