I am not a certified Stihl tech, never been to a class. And, don't know if they would even get in to it. But, I would be curious to know how the M Tronic works. I can repair them easy as anything else.
But, I would like to know what the signal is to the solenoid. Like does the voltage increase/decrease to open close the solenoid ? Is it a gradual opening or does the solenoid open and close at a varying rate depending on demand ? Is it DC ? How do they rectify it ?
How does the RPM talk to the ignition coil ? Where is this temperature sensor located ?
I have built some reasonable complicated circuit boards to control bias, time delays, step start circuits, solid state relay switching, that kind of thing.
So, just curious. Not that you need to know to repair one that has been dropped out of a tree or run over.
Ok let me pass on what I (think) I know about Mtronic and Autotune. First, like you, I’ve never been to a Stihl school, so anything I say may be incorrect. If anyone corrects me I am glad to have learned something.
I am however, a retired aircraft mechanic who also has LOTS of experience with electronics and electro-mechanical devices. Now I like to repair chainsaws as well as being a B Certified Sawyer By USFS. I have rebuilt maybe three dozen or so Mtronics and Husky Autotune saws so I know what they look like under the cover.
Aircraft carbs and jet engine fuel controls have DEVICES that sense and adjust the fuel flow for things like RPM, air density, temperature, etc - all the things Stihl and Husky say they compensate for. If you take a Stihl Mtronic or Husky Autotune saw apart you won’t see any sensors or devices. Let’s take a Stihl 261C and compare it with a standard carb 261. It has a different fly wheel, coil, wire harness, and carb. The “computer” is (as best as I can tell) all in the coil. The carb has the solenoid and a micro-switch on the choke shaft. There is no external device to measure anything else. The coil can count the RPMs and I assume senses the temp as well. It can’t tell octane, fuel/oil mixture, air leaks, or anything else. So how does it “compensate” for these things?
There is no idle adjust on any of these saws. On a 261C the high idle is, I think, set to be around 3900 RPM and regular idle around 2900. So let’s say when you start the saw it high idles at 3100 Rpm. The computer says “I am not idling fast enough, so I must be too rich or too lean. I will start adjusting the mixture by modulating the solenoid valve.” I believe it defaults to richen first. If it richens the mixture and the RPMs further drop, then it says ”wrong direction, I need to go lean”. It then has the solenoid lean the mixture until it overshoots 3900, then it adjust the mixture back towards lean, going back and forth until it gets where it wants. This is a very simplified explanation but you get the idea. The coil/computer has different algorithms it will use to tune the mixture in different operating circumstances. They will also tune in the cut. Husky seems to do a lot more tuning in the cut.
Start one of these saws, sit it down and watch the chain. You can see and hear the RPMs change while it tunes itself - just as if you were turning the needle jet on a standard carb.
Im pretty sure the solenoid is what I was taught “chopped DC”. When magnetized, the coil of a solenoid pulls the armature to move it against a return spring. You can design the solenoid so that by applying a digital chopped dc of varying frequency you can modulate it between full off/on or open/close.
This is where I see operators have the biggest problem with these saws - the saw remembers the mixture setting from the last time it ran. If operating conditions (altitude, temp, whatever) have changed much then YOU HAVE TO GIVE THE SAW A CHANCE TO RETUNE!! Different saws have slightly different procedures but I find letting them idle at high idle for a minute seems to work on them all.
We, being men, never read the instructions that come with the saws. When you fire the saw up you set it down and let it tune itself. If you fire it up and immediately start trying to use it the saw gets all confused unless conditions are close to the same as the last time it started. So once it “learns” it‘s setting it is probably good for the day. Next morning, however, let it idle when you first start up.
A couple of maintenance tips I have learned - ALWAYS have a spare solenoid for Stihls. The solenoids are interchangeable between models, so the same solenoid can be used 261/362/400/462. There are black ones (bad), white ones, and green ones. Cost last one I bought was about $45 with new orange fuel filter which you also want. All colors interchange fine in my experience, although I’ve heard some people argue that. The solenoid has multiple failure modes. If I’m having ANY trouble that seems carb related I put on a new solenoid before anything else. Nine out of ten times that will fix my Mtronics. They are technically simple to swap but have some tiny attaching parts so I wouldn’t advise trying your first one in the field. I always take the carb off although I think you could do it by just taking the carb loose enough to work on.
Husky Autotunes - I find them to be much more reliable as long as you do the idle in the morning. I don’t even know where the solenoid is on the Husky carb. BUT taking a Husky carb off is to me more of a pain and there is a BIG GOTTCHA - Husky Autotune carbs, unlike Stihl, have to be matched to the coil part number. Start mixing Husky carb and coils around and your saw will probably go bat-poop and require the dealer to straighten out the software.
I’m sure someone one will take issue with something I’ve said and that is fine. Husky and Stihl are both secretive about how these systems really work and I welcome anything anyone else can teach me.