Making a longer bar

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I like it. Be interesting to see if it has the same strength as the rest of the bar. I laughed a little when I read that your oregon bar was "retired", haha comn the paint isent even worn off yet!:hmm3grin2orange:

I know it doesn't look to bad. It came on a ebay saw and whom ever used it before beat the crap out of the tip. Tip was new when I received it but very loose and has gotten worse. Besides I don't need one that long and it is heavier than I cared for.

My only concern, the weld will be to brittle. Time will tell but I will not be putting hours on this set up.
 
Ya buddy, they are saying 60mph gusts tonight and tomorrow. Better rest up

Got a call 2 hrs. ago, told we are on storm duty! :help: Wife packed a lunch and boots are at the door!!!!
Long hrs and no sleep! Time to give UNCLE SAM some coin!!!!!


I want to see some pics of that Husky putting bacon on the table!!!!!!!!!
 
Old School Bars

Very nice work Mitch, as long as you don't try to use that as a pry bar it should last a long, long time.

This McCulloch bar started life as a solid welded tip

attachment.php


attachment.php


And Gary has the story on the bar on this Homelite, if I recall, it was run over by a train

attachment.php


attachment.php


Markl
 
I remembered that tip after starting this thread. Brazed correct? I'm sure there are many cases of fixed bars out there. My Clinton belt drive has mag beads all over the case, ugly work to boot.
 
Nice one :clap:

My dad's test for a welded bar was to attach the powerhead and stick the nose into a cut up to the join - if the bar supported the weight of the powerhead it was good to go.

One thing thing I would recommend is get rid of that little dent marked with the green arrow on the bar rail (it looks like the rails could do with a light dressing anyway).
attachment.php

Chances are the welding will have taken some of the temper out of the rails at the join and the chain will find that dent and pound on it till it gouges it out.
 
Nice one :clap:

My dad's test for a welded bar was to attach the powerhead and stick the nose into a cut up to the join - if the bar supported the weight of the powerhead it was good to go.

One thing thing I would recommend is get rid of that little dent marked with the green arrow on the bar rail (it looks like the rails could do with a light dressing anyway).
attachment.php

Chances are the welding will have taken some of the temper out of the rails at the join and the chain will find that dent and pound on it till it gouges it out.

Thanks Bob

I will be checking it over closely today. I do need to do some finish grinding on it yet, bead witness line is a mount not a valley. Would tempering the bar benefit? Have not had much luck doing it in the past.
 
Thanks Bob

I will be checking it over closely today. I do need to do some finish grinding on it yet, bead witness line is a mount not a valley. Would tempering the bar benefit? Have not had much luck doing it in the past.

Heat treating just part of the rails will affect the rails adjacent to the treatment site so that isn't very effective either. For example, heating the weld itself to cherry red and then quenching it to gain hardness detempers the sites adjacent to the weld that got hot. Then if you try to fix those the previous area gets messed up and you end up going around in circles.

Ideally one heat treats all the rails in one go using a set of flames and then quenches for hardness and then tempers in an oven. The problem with such a big object is setting this up is difficult. A mate of my dads who had several 36" bars in a shed that caught fire and they went soft so he rehardened them by placing them in a hot fire until they got cherry red and dragged them out of the fire with a piece of fencing wire into a trough of water.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top