making stihl orange,orange again

[ChainsawmanXX]

Call me crazy but I like the pics of the thing all scuffed up and badass looking. Less likelihood of it getting stolen like that too . Sometimes I scratch my head at the videos of guys using their older, somehow showroom looking saws in what look like the clothes I wear to church .

It must just be because I have OCD?

 

[K5krawler]

084 Pics

I did the same thing, Scuff, Wetsand, Paint.
I do recommend going to something better than 300's before clear.

Before I did anything to the 084

Then sandblasted side cover before I used a nice powerdercoat Primer to finish

After it all

Top Cover

 

[ohio andy]

Sorry to revive an old thread

This is a great thread for restoring old plastic. I just wondered if anyone had ever tried the following formula sor restoring oxidized plastic. I found this on Yahoo answers and there is a youtube of a guy using it on a four wheeler. I thought i would hit up the ultimate source for everything chainsaw before trying it on one of mine.

Thoughts or experience?




3. hit up Lowe's or Home Depot. Get a pint of paint thinner and a pint of "boiled linseed oil". Get home, mix them 60:40 (thinner:linseed), stir. then while wearing gloves, dap, dip or squirt the mix onto a clean, lint free towel or a wax/foam pad and then just wipe it all over the plastic parts as if it were tire shine. this is my own personal trick from 15+ yrs in the automotive industry and being a paint chemist.

if my mix doesn't change it, and leaves a gray/white look still, then the plastic has been bent as well and the hazing you are seeing are actual molecular stress marks. only fix besides paint would be a new part. otherwise most sun fading has no chance standing up against my mix. after the 5th application, you should be done applying it (over weeks)


Youtube video
How to Restore Faded or Oxidized ATV Plastic - Fast & Easy - YouTube

 

[zogger]

This is a great thread for restoring old plastic. I just wondered if anyone had ever tried the following formula sor restoring oxidized plastic. I found this on Yahoo answers and there is a youtube of a guy using it on a four wheeler. I thought i would hit up the ultimate source for everything chainsaw before trying it on one of mine.

Thoughts or experience?




3. hit up Lowe's or Home Depot. Get a pint of paint thinner and a pint of "boiled linseed oil". Get home, mix them 60:40 (thinner:linseed), stir. then while wearing gloves, dap, dip or squirt the mix onto a clean, lint free towel or a wax/foam pad and then just wipe it all over the plastic parts as if it were tire shine. this is my own personal trick from 15+ yrs in the automotive industry and being a paint chemist.

if my mix doesn't change it, and leaves a gray/white look still, then the plastic has been bent as well and the hazing you are seeing are actual molecular stress marks. only fix besides paint would be a new part. otherwise most sun fading has no chance standing up against my mix. after the 5th application, you should be done applying it (over weeks)


Youtube video
How to Restore Faded or Oxidized ATV Plastic - Fast & Easy - YouTube

Looks cool, cheap enough to try!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks cool, cheap enough to try!

If you have weeks to wait for the results....

Sand until you get through the stains (if possible), then wet sand some more with penetrating oil using finer and finer grit. Then use either the Rustoleum or Krylon Clear Coat.

Here is one of many threads on the subject. The Krylon I used is specifically an indoor/outdoor clear coat. I presume there's a Rustoleum equivalent.

Not exactly a restoration project, but efficient and effective at restoring the plastics in my case. If I wanted new plastics, I'd buy new plastics.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/230501.htm

 

[ohio andy]

If you have weeks to wait for the results....

Sand until you get through the stains (if possible), then wet sand some more with penetrating oil using finer and finer grit. Then use either the Rustoleum or Krylon Clear Coat.

Here is one of many threads on the subject. The Krylon I used is specifically an indoor/outdoor clear coat. I presume there's a Rustoleum equivalent.

Not exactly a restoration project, but efficient and effective at restoring the plastics in my case. If I wanted new plastics, I'd buy new plastics.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/230501.htm

Excellent thread reference! In that thread you used liquid wrench to wet sand. What if you used the thinner/linseed oil in place on the liquid wrench in the process? Would that be the best of both worlds? Wonder if that mixture would eat at the sand paper bonding?

 

[514mach1]

Rattle can clear? If I were going to go through the trouble of sanding the plastic and all, I'd get some automotive urethane that needs hardener. I realize not everyone wants to mess with clear, reducer, and hardener along with having a paint gun, but I've never been impressed with any rattle can paint as far as durability.

 

[Wood Doctor]

A Few Other Recommendations

Ohio Andy's method is very similar to what I do when restoring old saw housings. My only difference is that I apply the BLO/Paint Thinner mixture with very fine (0000) steel wool. That tends to penetrate the surface ever so slightly so that the chemicals can easily mix into the slurry. Be careful not to press too hard while rubbing decals and signs on the plastic. Otherwise, these will be grayed out or partially erased.

I let the slurry dry for an hour or so before wiping it off with a soft cloth or good quality paper towel. This "poor man's" technique leaves behind a finish that is satin or semi-gloss, not glossy, but it sure looks better than no treatment at all. My customers have never complained.

I have also tried mineral oil mixed with paint thinner rather than boiled linseed oil with equal success.

 

[ohio andy]

Ohio Andy's method is very similar to what I do when restoring old saw housings. My only difference is that I apply the BLO/Paint Thinner mixture with very fine (0000) steel wool. That tends to penetrate the surface ever so slightly so that the chemicals can easily mix into the slurry. Be careful not to press too hard while rubbing decals and signs on the plastic. Otherwise, these will be grayed out or partially erased.

I let the slurry dry for an hour or so before wiping it off with a soft cloth or good quality paper towel. This "poor man's" technique leaves behind a finish that is satin or semi-gloss, not glossy, but it sure looks better than no treatment at all. My customers have never complained.

I have also tried mineral oil mixed with paint thinner rather than boiled linseed oil with equal success.

Thank you for sharing your first hand experience with us on this method.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I don't know if it's applicable to type staining etc that you'd have with saws
but the computer fans have some tricks for getting the dinge
out of those off white platics
Restoring yellowed computer plastics
it leads to sevral related links in the writup