Max tree diameter cut vs bar length?

[Hellbent]

I figured this is more of a technique question so it should go here...

What are the "proper guidelines" for how large a diameter tree you can fell / cut vs The bar length of your saw?

What i'm asking is a 30" bar should be able to fell a 60" diameter tree cutting one side and then reposistioning yourself 180 degrees and resuming the original cut in the same direction right? My buddy says that a 30" bar is only supposed to cut up to a 30" tree diameter. That can't possibly be true, especially the guys that work in big timber like the PNW and the eastern shore of Alaska.


My cuttin buddy and i are trying to solve this and i figured i kneed to call for professional backup.

Thanks, Hellbent

 

[ATH]

Very common practice to cut trees longer than bar length though.

You can actually cut more than twice the bar length (I have not done it, but have seen it done). Come in from either side to cut the wedge (you are not at full diameter of tree...so often can do that with 2 cuts). Plunge into the wedge opening to cut out center or tree. Come in from sides and back leaving a hinge.

 

[ATH]

 

[fishinfiend]

I was always told that if you have a 20 in bar you could take a 40 in tree. I am from NE WI.

Either way this is what is in the Stihl manual:

Either do a section cut which is start on one side of the tree and fan the saw around the tree but dont cut off the hinge.

Or do a plunge cut which is when you shove the nose of the saw into the tree and start working the saw back and forth making the opening bigger and bigger than before.

P.S. I was paraphrasing the Stihl manual if you want to know exactly how to do it either of those ways go to Stihls website and read it yourself.

 

[windthrown]

Proper guideline? Whatever works. Here in the west long bars are far more common, back east short bars are more common. I like to make cuts from one side, so use longer bars if possible. O/w I flip around and cut from both sides. I have felled 48 inch DBH trees with a 25 inch bar.

 

[sgreanbeans]

U want to keep it under the total width. 30" bar, 59" tree......or less. If you go too big, you will have a little chunk of holding wood right in the middle and that thing will make u loose your mind!

 

[Pelorus]

A long bar is more spendy, heavier, may not oil as well, and there are a lot more teeth to sharpen after you hit that buried nail you didn't see. I rarely use over a 20" bar.

 

[sgreanbeans]

Me, I like to climb with the 066 and a 36" bar, nice and small, nimble.

 

[Pelorus]

Do your knuckles drag on the ground when walking or standing upright?

 

[woodchuck357]

Tree diameter about 3 times the bar length is the largest that can be taken down easily. Deep open notch the length of the bar. Bore into the notch to the length of the bar. Starting behind the hinge bore in and cut around almost to the center of the back side. Bore in behind the hinge on the other side and cut around toward the back to finish the felling cut.

 

[woodchuck357]

Me, I like to climb with the 066 and a 36" bar, nice and small, nimble.

Can't say I liked it, but in my younger days I climbed with a 80 cc mac with a 3 foot bar more than a few times.

 

[beastmaster]

Nothing I hate more then having to double cut a big tree on spikes, but then again it may beat pulling a 088 up and having that hanging from your saddle. Back in my younger days I liked to limb big pines with a O64 stihl with a 36in bar, it gave me a lot of reach and the speed and power to make them do tricks. I use a 201T with a 14 in bar these days, and will double cut all day 28 in pieces. A few times Ive used a 084 with a long bar and have to double cut a 70 in piece while on spikes, nothin nice. That was before compression releases too.

 

[beastmaster]

Can't say I liked it, but in my younger days I climbed with a 80 cc mac with a 3 foot bar more than a few times.

Man those old macs were heavy basterds too. Wish I still had one of those old big macs, I'd hang it on the wall in the living room.

 

[Hellbent]

Excellent info! I really appreciate the details on the techniques as well! I knew people did it all the time but I guess I couldn't explain it near as good as you guys.

Thanks, Hellbent

 

[Hellbent]

Great video! It always amazes me to see truly big trees! When we start talking "big" trees we mean >30" in Kansas. Perspective is a funny thing...

 

[jwp]

I have seen where very large trees were felled with an axe. So I would think that a saw could be used to nibble away at the tree until it fell. I wouldn't want to do it that way.

 

[Nemus Talea]

Good illustrations here.
http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati.../assets/pdf/bc_faller_training_standard_2.pdf

 

[sgreanbeans]

Great video! It always amazes me to see truly big trees! When we start talking "big" trees we mean >30" in Kansas. Perspective is a funny thing...

We have some monsters here, not huge in height, but some massive wood. Thought I had seen big trees, then I went to the Sequoia Kings National Park in Cali........... holy ****!

 

[Guran]

In extreme situations it's possible to cut even more than twice your bar lenght.
A picture of how that is done below....

 

[ATH]

I guess that proves a picture is worth a thousand words! Almost exactly what I tried to explain in my first reply. Only thing I would do different is leave a little wood in the back and make that the final cut. If that tree starts to go before you get the second cut all the way to the hinge it will swing to the left. If, instead, you make both side cuts leaving a little wood in the back (how much depends on lean of tree and wind speed/direction) tou can cut the back piece off and it will go true to the hinge.