McCulloch 10 Series Oiler

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Hi Mark,,,,picture of the piston plumger,,,,not to clear,,,,maybe i can post another picture
 
Mark,,,,There u can see the disk,,,,,and then the oil ring ,,,,,,,then theres a fling on the outside of the oiler. The disk was on the outside when i install the other oiler on my 10-10. This oiler ,,,,,the piston goes out and in real good,,,, but it would not auto oil. I even turn the screw way out,,,,and still no oil,,,,,,,Thanks,,,,,,,greg
 
Mark so u saying that the oil ring should be behind the Phenolic disk???? Thanks,,,,greg
 
Mark got a question thought u might know. I got a Mcculloch 10-10 auto,,,,Modle is 600013U.. When i torn down the carburetor it had two diaphamge on one side and then the gasket. One diaphamge was black and the other one was brown,,,The brown one had a hole about 9/16 around. Thought u might would know,,,,Thanks
 
The mylar (brown, plastic) one backs up the nitrile (black, rubber) one. The hole allows the fuel pump diaphragm to flex with the impulse and drive the pump functions. Correct order is black against the body of the carburetor then brown back up, gasket, and the cover.

To answer your other question above, yes the o-ring is on the other side of the phenolic disc and holds it against the head of the piston.

Mark
 
Thanks so much Mark. I thought u would know. You a smart man on those 10-10 saw. My saw runs great now. Now i know what the brown diaphragm is for now. Glad i put the brown one back in on top of the black diaphragm. Thanks again buddy,,,,,Greg
 
Mark , thanks for taking the time to make this thread . Just did a pm700 that had set in a garage for years ,and was just given to my neighbor . The rim sprocket didn't have any appreciable wear . So, I'm guessing it doesn't have many hours .Did the fuel line ,carb. , etc . Ran it up ,no oil in auto ,okay in manual .Knowing about zero of how the pump is put together ,I was hesitant to just start pulling things apart This thread was brought up ,and it walked me right through the repair .
Again , thank you !
 
Hi mark I have a McCulloch 10-10 and a cp70 both of which are having oiler problems. I have read all the information and tired all I can but am still having no luck. I also have a parts saw and have been comparing oilers to see which are functioning at all. I have cleaned all the pipes going into and out of the auto oiler all is clear. I also replaced the o-ring on the disk in the oiler and cleaned out the check valve. I have tried to work the oiler before assembly and oil just seems to bubble up and down in the inlet side of the oiler so I’m guessing the check valve is not moving? Is there a fix for that or is it a case of replacing the whole auto oiler. If I squirt penetrating fluid through the inlet it will come out the outlet but when assemble in the saw it does not work.
Thanks in advance
 
I was wondering if you could explain again what this threaded hole is for just in front of the automatic oiler on the top interior surface of the oil tank? (See picture). When I opened up my oil tank for the first time, I found this small black plastic piece and a small flat washer riding around loose in there, and the threaded hole mentioned above did not have anything in it...
The reason I opened the tank is because the saw would automatically pump out a full tank of oil in about 15 minutes, and I wanted to adjust the oil flow rate. This brings up a second question that I have, which is whether you have a tip for dialing in the oil flow rate without the bar on to get it as close as possible before reassembling everything (if I run the saw without the bar and watch the oil output hole, about how fast should oil come out of there?)
Thank you for all the excellent information you've put in this thread so far, and any help with my questions is much appreciated :)
 

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There should be a 10-24 socket head screw that goes through that hole and secures the front of the fuel tank to the top of the oil tank. Sometimes there was a spacer/washer between the oil tank and the fuel tank. You found the washer, now look for the screw.

The black plastic disc goes in the oil cap. They usually had a small felt pad in there and some even had a duck bill valve to minimize the oil leakage.

The only advice I can give you on the flow is to make an adjustment and check it again. It is relatively easy to take the cover off and adjust the screw on top of the automatic oil pump; CCW for more flow or CW for less flow.

Mark
 
New guy here with my 1st McCulloch, a dirty saw that had been sitting in a barn for 18 years!
PM700 600116B.
Got some pdf manuals from RB, thanks!

I wish I saw this thread yesterday! :D

I cleaned the saw, removed the carb, cleaned it.
The fuel inlet was blocked with gum and varnish, but otherwise the carb was really clean. It looked like the last user emptied the tank and then ran the saw dry before storing it 20 years ago, so it only had some gum and varnish at the inlet and in the hose.

The cylinder looked clean, via flashlight inspection of spark plug hole and carb throat.

I got the saw running and started to tune it.

Oil was dripping from the bottom and oozing down the outside of the vented side cover.
It wasn't oiling the chain.
My personal test: hold the bar tip close to a vertical surface and run the saw and see if it slings tiny strings of oil onto the surface.
This saw only passed the test when I pushed the green manual oiler.
So - manual oiler working, auto oiler not.

I emptied the oil tank and rinsed it with mix and then pulled the front cover.

I have the new-style 1-screw plastic oiler with non-serviceable check valve and spring-steel pusher-tab.
My oil tank had gooey gel boogers in it.
I removed the oiler screw and teased the spring tab out with a small screwdriver.
The thick rubber gasket looked good. The oiler had thick goo in it, around the adjuster insert and below it. The pump diaphragm looked good after I cleaned everything.
Reassembly was not difficult. Install front screw, then work the spring tab into place and squash it into a bind.

I cleaned clear silicone sealant off both sides of the gasket and the seal surfaces. I put a small o-ring under the washer of the cover screw, and mounted the cover plate with the old gasket with no sealant.

My plan - run the saw, see if the auto oiler starts working, adjust it if necessary, see if the cover plate leaks oil around the old gasket or at the mounting screw.

I think the check valve in my fuel fill cap is stuck.
I changed the cap gasket but it still leaks gas. Any tricks for getting the check valve to start working again? I sprayed both ends of the check circuit with carb spray and some thick goo came out, but the cap leaks and I'm pretty sure the gasket is not leaking.

Thanks for a great thread! People still using it 7 years later!
 
You need to post a photo of the fuel cap as there are several different styles and some can be serviced easily, others not so much. Most likely the duck bill valve in the fuel cap has disintegrated. On the automatic oil pump, you will likely need to flush the circuits with some brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner to get the internal check valve unstuck.

Mark
 

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